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My Old Barn to shop Conversion

BrianB

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Location
Shelbyville, Ky
I bought a 4" Giddings and Lewis Horizontal Boring mill that was too tall for my existing shop. Rather than raise the roof I decided to take advantage of a 150yo barn on my property and convert it into a new machine shop with a proper overhead bridge crane to handle the larger jobs that mostly are what I do in my shop. I primarily do large diesel engine components and ag and industrial machinery repair with some fabrication mixed in. The barn is 40x60 and it will be 14ft clear inside. For those interested I have been documenting it on my You Tube channel(bcbloc02).
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLR3ghccYZnaka5Tui5UQnWHCRaKT1rlVC
I will try to maybe get some regular pictures to add here as well for those that don't like the videos. Feel free to give me suggestions and feedback.
 
Yep, I have followed as well. I think it is a good plan to use what you have even though it is a tremendous amount of work.

"Bailley approved"...


Thanks for putting it out there for us to watch,

Jason
 
Lots of good work there, Brian.

Hope you're getting a bulk deal on bags of concrete. Nice to have the readymix truck show up for the big pours, but you're certainly doing it right for the small ones.

Have you run across the Timberloc fasteners? Lots of folks around here use them for less than purist timberframe construction. They work pretty well, too.

Looking forward to more videos...

Neil
 
I buy the bagged concrete when it is on sale and it is actually about $5-10 less per yard than off the truck. The work is tough but the reward should be worth it!To keep the supervisor happy I think the couch will need to be one of the 1st pieces moved in. lol Anybody with hydronic radiant floor heat experience I would like input on tubing size and pass length if anybody has any.
 
Welcome, Brian! I too have been a sub of your channel for a while. I enjoy watching some of your big iron make stuff!

I tell ya, that barn was really rough, and I just don't know how you can mix all that concrete by hand?! You've poured 10 yards per footing, how do you deal with the cold joints?
 
Thats one heck of a project you have there. I'd be watching CL for a pto driven cement mixer. I picked one up for $300 and It might be one of the best things I've ever bought. My buddy and I poured some footings under a house, we used 60 (80lb) bags. It took us 2hrs, and that was with running back to the store to get the other 20bags. 9 bags to the drum, turn on pto,mix, raise the position control lever and dump the cement into the wheelbarrow or forms.
 
I am not hand mixing it, I have a little electric mixer that will do 3 bags at a time. Besides doing the crane piers I am getting pretty close to being done with the bagged concrete work thankfully. As for the cold joints I pour them as laps so it is kind of like stacking concrete blocks in a sense. I appreciate every ones interest!
 
Haven't had a chance to watch all the video's, but at first blush, I gotta say - man - you've got vision. I skimmed through the first video and thought 'this guy is crazy', but the latest is looking really good. Keep at it.. I think its going to be an awesome space when your done.

Brent
 
Impressive, having done similar work to an old farm house (no overhead crane of course), I can understand how much work this project is.

What's the tonnage of the crane going to be? And what size are the uprights?
 
I take it the Cummins swap is long done by now?
I couldn't find any more ref to it...


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Did you do any kind of engineering on this crane or the foundation? 15 tons is no joke.

Sure looks like you could have started from scratch and saved a lot of time and effort, and maybe even money.
 
I take it the Cummins swap is long done by now?
I couldn't find any more ref to it...


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
Yes there are a couple of videos on just it. I used it to haul the Crane steel in. I don't miss that gas sucking 360 one bit.
 
Did you do any kind of engineering on this crane or the foundation? 15 tons is no joke.

Sure looks like you could have started from scratch and saved a lot of time and effort, and maybe even money.

The shear values, deflections and stresses have been calculated for all components and even in worst case loading there is a significant factor of safety of multiple times.
 
not a radian floor expert, but....here is a resource

Radiant floor things

and i have a guest house that has radiant heat and also have radiant heat in the house under the tile floors. the house heat uses 3/8" pex tubing with a Stadeler recirculating manifold with a single pump that runs all the time on 5 circuits... the guest house is about 600 sqft and uses a single taco pump with a thermostat and 1/2" tunging and five circuits on a manifold. Definitely put at least 2" foam under the concrete and get the tubes in the center of the slab. or in you case about 2" below the surface if your slab is like 8" thick. I use a polaris evaporating water heater for both hot water and floor heat. it works and it is cheaper than a modulating boiler, but you may not be able to find a single heater that is big enough for needs. There is nothing as satisfying as radiant floor heat. also do not skimp, put pipes everywhere, even under the machines, they will become radiators as well and it is more satisfying to touch a slightly warm surface than cold one. Insulate the walls extremely well, and your roof even better, the floor will be maybe 2 to 5 degrees warmer than the air.

good luck. I wish i could do the same you are doing, great project...BTW the December video is not loading for some reason.

dee
;-D
 








 
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