Thread: Tried and True Machine

There's some pretty good lead times on labor here too...............

I would have everything lined up but the framing. And I think I could scrounge together a crew and bang it out in a few weekends. It's just a big box after all. I could end up doing quite a bit of the work myself any ways. Hire out the dirt work. Setting concrete forms ain't bad on a slab. Infloor heat and plumbing a trained monkey could do and is really only a day or two of work. Got a friend that does great masonry work and he'd get me into the schedule for the flat work..........Insulation is a day or so of itching.............and I would wire it myself anyways...........as soon as you mention 3PH and EMT to an electrician, the price seems to quadruple................At least now I have 2 teenagers................gotta love slave labor.

Yea, I plan to do mine myself. The big hold-up for me right now is: there is a big old AC unit on a stand in my way.
I need to get it hanging on the wall. I bought the steel to do it months ago. Been tripping on it for way too long, LOL.
I have a good concrete guy. He is less than a month out at any time. I will frame it with sticks, easy-peasy.
The big hurdle for me (beyond hanging the AC) is the tin-work on the outside to make it look like it belongs.
I know nothing about it. I've never done it. I know where to buy the materials. But, don't know what I need.
I'm gonna have to dive in pretty soon though as I am completely out of room in here. Its pretty bad right now.

What am I seeing for the current 'inventory'?

Mills:
1 Haas
1 Doosan
1 small Brother

Lathes
1 Haas
2 Doosans

Nice Shop!!

Originally Posted by wheelieking71

Yea, I plan to do mine myself. The big hold-up for me right now is: there is a big old AC unit on a stand in my way.
I need to get it hanging on the wall. I bought the steel to do it months ago. Been tripping on it for way too long, LOL.
I have a good concrete guy. He is less than a month out at any time. I will frame it with sticks, easy-peasy.
The big hurdle for me (beyond hanging the AC) is the tin-work on the outside to make it look like it belongs.
I know nothing about it. I've never done it. I know where to buy the materials. But, don't know what I need.
I'm gonna have to dive in pretty soon though as I am completely out of room in here. Its pretty bad right now.

First building I built I went to a local steel siding roller and asked tons of questions. They were super helpful and got me exactly what I needed. Take some pictures of the trim pieces and rodent guard your building has to take with you so they can match it.

Try to figure it out well enough that you get all the straight stuff cut to exact length. Cut most of the other stuff with a metal blade in a skilsaw.

Finger out your screw pattern, stack the sheets and drill each wall in a stack.

Ugh.................



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Originally Posted by david n

Ugh.................



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I think the front fell off...

Looks like the draw tube itself is a little thin, the factory is trying to maximize through-hole size I would imagine.

If you make a new draw tube, I would use heavier-wall tubing, give up a little through-hole capability for part integrity.

My 2 cents!

ToolCat

I hope this happened while actuating the chuck and not when spun up with a workpiece.


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Originally Posted by rklopp

I hope this happened while actuating the chuck and not when spun up with a workpiece.

Yea! What he said! I would not want to see a rogue chuck @ 3500rpm!

Is that in the old lynx or the haas?

Nothing dangerous or scary happened...................this is on the older 220LC Lynx. The draw tube basically pulled outa the collet chuck draw nut. The draw tube has two slots/notches to for removal and installation. That's where it failed. The draw nut on the FlexC chuck doesn't have much thread length and I think that is the problem. Prolly 5/8" or so. The 3 jaw chuck's draw tube nuts have at least double that length. I have to get on the horn with Hardinge and see if they can make a nut with longer threads. I can bet they'll say it was my fault it failed, too high of clamp pressure or something. I run the pressure where I'd run a 3 jaw.

I was down for less than 24hrs...............Doosan had a replacement tube at my door the next day.

Originally Posted by david n

Nothing dangerous or scary happened...................this is on the older 220LC Lynx. The draw tube basically pulled outa the collet chuck draw nut. The draw tube has two slots/notches to for removal and installation. That's where it failed. The draw nut on the FlexC chuck doesn't have much thread length and I think that is the problem. Prolly 5/8" or so. The 3 jaw chuck's draw tube nuts have at least double that length. I have to get on the horn with Hardinge and see if they can make a nut with longer threads. I can bet they'll say it was my fault it failed, too high of clamp pressure or something. I run the pressure where I'd run a 3 jaw.

I was down for less than 24hrs...............Doosan had a replacement tube at my door the next day.

Unity Tool has made many drawtube adapters if you need. I used them many times in the past.

Good to know. I had the feeling there wasn't that many turns of thread when I put the Flex-65 on my lynx2100.
I run it at 300psi I believe, near max for it anyway.
Was it much work to change the tube? I never saw one apart, can you unscrew/pull it through the front or gotta undo the actuator at the back?
Maybe I should keep a tube here in stock...

Originally Posted by SND

Good to know. I had the feeling there wasn't that many turns of thread when I put the Flex-65 on my lynx2100.
I run it at 300psi I believe, near max for it anyway.
Was it much work to change the tube? I never saw one apart, can you unscrew/pull it through the front or gotta undo the actuator at the back?
Maybe I should keep a tube here in stock...

Just unscrew it and pull it out inside the machine....................Since the slots in mine were unusable, I had to take the angle grinder in there and put in new ones. Screwed right out.................slathered the new one up with antiseize and screwed it in................

What FlexC chuck do you have? This machine has the pull back style. The new rig has the push to close chuck......

This chuck has 12 studs/dowels that link the nut to the collet "gripper". There's an M6 x 50 cap screw through each. When I pulled everything apart to clean, 3 of the 12 had snapped cap screws and the other 9 where not very tight. That's something else I have to talk with Hardinge about. Wonderin' if'n they were never tight from the factory...................

Originally Posted by Mr.M

Unity Tool has made many drawtube adapters if you need. I used them many times in the past.

This one is specific to the collet chuck...................not just a plain ol nut...................

Originally Posted by cnctoolcat

Looks like the draw tube itself is a little thin, the factory is trying to maximize through-hole size I would imagine.

If you make a new draw tube, I would use heavier-wall tubing, give up a little through-hole capability for part integrity.

My 2 cents!

ToolCat

Never gonna happen..............I need all the through hole I can get..............plus the pile of spindle liners would be useless.........................

The amount of engagement is likely fine for normal conditions, had the end of the tube not been slotted.

You could maybe step up to 4130 or such tube if necessary.



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Originally Posted by david n

Just unscrew it and pull it out inside the machine....................Since the slots in mine were unusable, I had to take the angle grinder in there and put in new ones. Screwed right out.................slathered the new one up with antiseize and screwed it in................

What FlexC chuck do you have? This machine has the pull back style. The new rig has the push to close chuck......

This chuck has 12 studs/dowels that link the nut to the collet "gripper". There's an M6 x 50 cap screw through each. When I pulled everything apart to clean, 3 of the 12 had snapped cap screws and the other 9 where not very tight. That's something else I have to talk with Hardinge about. Wonderin' if'n they were never tight from the factory...................

I'm glad to hear they're not too hard to replace.
I have the Flex-C pull back style with dead length stop. I never took it apart to clean it yet, but I only have about 330hrs on it so far.
I put an aluminum ring on mine so it slings to coolant away from the spindle face, similar to the Royal design. I didn't like how it left too much of it exposed with the smaller OD of the hardinge design.