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    Default .010 off

    I'm a newbie to this site, posting here to find some expertise. I picked up a mechanically and physically very nice Mitoyo 6 inch dial micrometer. Smooth operation, but when I checked it against my Starrett standards, it was .010 off at 1 inch, the same at 2 inches. Tried a set of feeler gauges from .025 down to .0015 which the Starrett read accurately, and the Mitoyo was .002 at feeler .0015, .008 at feeler .010, .022 at feeler .025. What in the world can go wrong with a micrometer like this? No missing teeth, no grit, no sticky spots, the blades sharp, flat and parallel.

    Charlie in NC

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    I think you have a CALLIPER not a Micrometer? Take a look at some Google images and come back to the forum.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CALNNC View Post
    I'm a newbie to this site, posting here to find some expertise. I picked up a mechanically and physically very nice Mitoyo 6 inch dial micrometer. Smooth operation, but when I checked it against my Starrett standards, it was .010 off at 1 inch, the same at 2 inches. Tried a set of feeler gauges from .025 down to .0015 which the Starrett read accurately, and the Mitoyo was .002 at feeler .0015, .008 at feeler .010, .022 at feeler .025. What in the world can go wrong with a micrometer like this? No missing teeth, no grit, no sticky spots, the blades sharp, flat and parallel.

    Charlie in NC
    .
    dial caliper has a gear and a gear rack and when chips get between it jumps a tooth. dial lock is loosened and turned to line up zero when caliper closed and locked again, takes maybe 2 seconds. some use a very thin brass shim and put between gear and rack to jump tooth back if the zero not pointing up bothers them. it can take time and many tries to jump teeth back to align the needle and zero to top again.
    .
    professionals do this many times in the life of the caliper but usually keep the chips off it better so it does not jump a tooth again cause it is annoying to have to reset it.

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    #2 to what Tom says.

    My 8" and 200 mm Mitutoyo dial callipers have a simple bent wire tool in the case to lift the drive gear off the rack so things can be reset if the error is large (or an out of line dial offensive).

    Most folk just release the clamp and turn the dial for small errors.

    Clive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daredo222 View Post
    I think you have a CALLIPER not a Micrometer? Take a look at some Google images and come back to the forum.
    Well, forgive me, I had my standards from my caliper box in front of me and was putting together this question and used the wrong term. I'm new to the group, not new to the skill.

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    Yep, checked the rack and gear for missing/damaged teeth, of course zeroed the dial which it comes back to exactly from any point on the scale, and makes it inaccuracy a puzzle unless it jumps on the way out, and exactly back on the way in. The odd part is the increasing inaccuracy as it approaches 1 inch, and then .010 off all the way out. Will look again even closer, maybe just send it to get fixed and forget the reason why.

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    {off-topi response removed = TRL}
    Last edited by The real Leigh; 07-05-2019 at 11:09 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CALNNC View Post
    I'm a newbie to this site, posting here to find some expertise. I picked up a mechanically and physically very nice Mitoyo 6 inch dial micrometer. Smooth operation, but when I checked it against my Starrett standards, it was .010 off at 1 inch, the same at 2 inches. Tried a set of feeler gauges from .025 down to .0015 which the Starrett read accurately, and the Mitoyo was .002 at feeler .0015, .008 at feeler .010, .022 at feeler .025. What in the world can go wrong with a micrometer like this? No missing teeth, no grit, no sticky spots, the blades sharp, flat and parallel.

    Charlie in NC
    Not sure what you mean by "picked up". If it was cheap the condition could be the reason. For the price you'd give sending it out for repair it'd probably be cheaper to buy a new one.

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    keep caliper clean dont let chips and dust cover it and get in it and it will stay calibrated longer.
    .
    i have worked in other countries. everybody uses different names for stuff. even different shops can use different names for stuff. its like 1000 years ago people spoke Latin or a common language as few understood all the local dialects. dialects is more than a accent. different dialects can be so much different that 2 from the same country cannot understand one another. Americans often dont understand or appreciate dialect differences. they might understand that English is not same as Spanish. Canadians might understand Canadian French not actaclly same as France French
    .
    by the way go on youtube look up old english from 1000 years ago. most Americans cannot understand 98% of old English
    .
    British understand that Scotts and Wales and or areas even in UK have differences enough to not understand one another. not everybody speaks London English, again go on youtube, might surprise Americans to know you can go to the UK and not understand the local language and need translation. Australians have a dialect, talk to a drunk Australian and might find Americans cannot understand 95% of what he is saying, he is too drunk to speak a more London English

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    Quote Originally Posted by CALNNC View Post
    Well, forgive me, I had my standards from my caliper box in front of me and was putting together this question and used the wrong term. I'm new to the group, not new to the skill.
    Huh??

    I think you are still confused about which one is which....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    Huh??

    I think you are still confused about which one is which....
    He's confused "group" and "skill".

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    I know I'm going to be branded a "dial hater" (again), but set this caliper (if that's indeed what it is) aside and get yourself a genuine Mitutoyo 6" digital caliper, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Adva.../dp/B00WMKUUAQ

    Much more tolerant of the dust and chips found in a machine shop, more ways to use it, instant Zero setting, long battery life, and consistent accuracy. I did say "genuine" for a reason, lots of sites selling Chinese counterfeits. Some are actually OK, but you are dollars ahead with the genuine article by saving money on batteries.

    Oh, and quick changeover from US Customary Units to Metric readings. And with a little more money data collection capability. And, and, and.

    Really, you reprobate coots, dials have had their day. And it's long since passed...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    I know I'm going to be branded a "dial hater" (again), but set this caliper (if that's indeed what it is) aside and get yourself a genuine Mitutoyo 6" digital caliper, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Adva.../dp/B00WMKUUAQ
    I think you have a poor memory. As I recall those of us who don't like or trust digitals were the ones looked down open on a recent thread discussing what calipers someone new to the trade should buy. I specifically recall being talked down to by the local troll and others, referred to as someone stuck in my ways and afraid of change just cause I only own dial and veneer calipers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dualkit View Post
    I think you have a poor memory. As I recall those of us who don't like or trust digitals were the ones looked down open on a recent thread discussing what calipers someone new to the trade should buy. I specifically recall being talked down to by the local troll and others, referred to as someone stuck in my ways and afraid of change just cause I only own dial and veneer calipers.
    I think my memory is terrific. Now, how about we deal with your persecution complex?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    I think my memory is terrific. Now, how about we deal with your persecution complex?
    I get attacked out of left field by people I don't interact with, that is fact. I don't need to say anymore. The liberals seem to be extra loud no matter what the subject. Your post is a good example, I just said I think you have are poor memory, then you have to escalate it accusing me of having a mental disorder. I give up, I am just going to start using the ignore feature for the first time.

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    I never knew there was a feud between dial and digital caliper users. Learn something every day I guess... Use what you like, bro.

    Annnywho. We bought a 12” Starrett dial height gauge off amazon, price tag was only $300, and it’s Starrett so why not, right? Out of the box, .018 or so error top to bottom. Must have been poorly manufactured, maybe the rack was tilted a little or bent. Probably why the Mitutoyo ones are 2k and up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderskunk View Post
    I never knew there was a feud between dial and digital caliper users. Learn something every day I guess... Use what you like, bro.
    What!? We have choices? Dangit, why didn't anyone tell me this before?

    Annnywho. We bought a 12” Starrett dial height gauge off amazon, price tag was only $300, and it’s Starrett so why not, right? Out of the box, .018 or so error top to bottom. Must have been poorly manufactured, maybe the rack was tilted a little or bent. Probably why the Mitutoyo ones are 2k and up.
    Did you return it? One thing about Amz, usually returns are very easy to do.

    And did you notice country of manufacture on that Starrett? At that price, I'd bet CN over US.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    Did you return it? One thing about Amz, usually returns are very easy to do.

    And did you notice country of manufacture on that Starrett? At that price, I'd bet CN over US.
    I’m sure it was China, and we did return it unless the boss is hiding it somewhere.

    I have gotten a few cheapy-Starrett items like a 12” caliper that I am perfectly happy with. I set just about every dimension I check with a Joe block anyways. Their extra warranties are great as well, at least on electronics.

    I’m cutting down my orders from Amazon though; prices used to be better, now it’s anyone’s guess.

    EDIT: I totally forgot about this until I saw one of the recommended articles from PM; Files. I've been using Nicholson files since I started. Never had an issue with them, always had one end bowed so we marked them on one side so we know which to square a block with.

    Well, bought a set off of Amazon because hey, it's Nicholson, no different from what we have. All of em: twisted. Almost completely useless. I keep em in the junk drawer in case I need something to beat on. Can't return em once they're used, and I didn't even realize something like that could be an issue. Sorry, now I'm really changing subjects.


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