best practice for tall gauge block stack?
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Cape Cod, Ma
    Posts
    521
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    306
    Likes (Received)
    129

    Default best practice for tall gauge block stack?

    What are some tips for making a Jo block stack over 12"? For setting an indicator on a transfer stand. I can ring them nicely but they are still under 3/8" wide which gets a little wobbly for me over 12" or so. seems a little risky to have a tower of wobbly gauge blocks fall on my nice granite.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    127
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bluejeep View Post
    What are some tips for making a Jo block stack over 12"? For setting an indicator on a transfer stand. I can ring them nicely but they are still under 3/8" wide which gets a little wobbly for me over 12" or so. seems a little risky to have a tower of wobbly gauge blocks fall on my nice granite.
    get a set of 1" square

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, New Hampshire
    Posts
    14,118
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3083
    Likes (Received)
    9358

    Default

    It can be as simple as a spare height gauge with a contact arm reaching over to rest on the top of the stack as an outrigger support (use a small pad of rubber to give a little "adhesive" effect and cushion), to expensive purpose-made G-block accessories made to collect and stabilize stacks of blocks.

    Gage Block Accessories--Heavy-Duty Quick Acting Clamps


    Here's a good NIST reference on G-block use: https://www.nist.gov/system/files/do...ns/mono180.pdf

  4. Likes woodchuckNJ, neanderthal mach liked this post
  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Florida
    Posts
    6,367
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2537
    Likes (Received)
    3151

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bluejeep View Post
    What are some tips for making a Jo block stack over 12"? For setting an indicator on a transfer stand. I can ring them nicely but they are still under 3/8" wide which gets a little wobbly for me over 12" or so. seems a little risky to have a tower of wobbly gauge blocks fall on my nice granite.
    Depending ont eh accuracy you want, can take 3 4" blocks + whatever else you need and lightly clamp to a taller angle plate. I mention accuracy because I believe gage blocks are not perfectly square so it might be slightly not parallel. I would hazard a guess pretty close, but I suppose it depends on each manufacturer for squareness.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Flushing/Flint, Michigan
    Posts
    10,893
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    640
    Likes (Received)
    8742

    Default

    ^^^^^ This.
    Never trust a gage block to be square even the best of them.
    Kiss tenths goodbye if side clamp or line up.
    Have learned this lesson the hard way.
    Bob
    Last edited by CarbideBob; 03-01-2021 at 03:11 PM.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    365
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    21
    Likes (Received)
    107

    Default

    You want a gage block base and the appropriate clamps to hold the stack.

    The base is ground/lapped as specific size gage block like this that accommodates the clamps: https://www.amazon.com/INSIZE-6881-B.../dp/B01GKV94Y0

    I'm not sure it the clamps for the standard style go up to 12"?

    You might need a base like the "heavy duty" one shown here so you can use the end holes: https://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...detail/HDA%206.

    Consider just getting square blocks, as they are easier to fixture.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    8,725
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    625
    Likes (Received)
    4440

    Default

    One time use or need it right now? Cut a piece of tubing slightly shorter than the stack that will slide over the stack. Weld feet to the base if desired to increase the size. How much clumsy do you need to cover?

  9. Likes woodchuckNJ liked this post
  10. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New Jersey
    Posts
    468
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    470
    Likes (Received)
    242

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    It can be as simple as a spare height gauge with a contact arm reaching over to rest on the top of the stack as an outrigger support (use a small pad of rubber to give a little "adhesive" effect and cushion), to expensive purpose-made G-block accessories made to collect and stabilize stacks of blocks.

    Gage Block Accessories--Heavy-Duty Quick Acting Clamps


    Here's a good NIST reference on G-block use: https://www.nist.gov/system/files/do...ns/mono180.pdf
    I second the holder idea.
    it just seems like a good way, unless of course you make your own holder that just prevents them from falling over and provides a channel to stack them in.

  11. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    1,292
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1345
    Likes (Received)
    831

    Default

    Use two good condition 2-4-6 blocks(validate the height)stacked on each other, then gage block/s on top of that.

  12. Likes Greg White liked this post
  13. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,850
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1213
    Likes (Received)
    1990

    Default

    How big do your OD mics go? I’ve used mic standards before, but not at 12”.

  14. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Cape Cod, Ma
    Posts
    521
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    306
    Likes (Received)
    129

    Default

    Thanks for all the ideas, I've decided to just get a "gauge block accessory" set, it has a clamp and base setup and some other useful stuff.

  15. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    21,026
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    12294

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bluejeep View Post
    Thanks for all the ideas, I've decided to just get a "gauge block accessory" set, it has a clamp and base setup and some other useful stuff.
    Scout them on eBay.

    I have more than one. So many folks are using "modern" means they go cheaply.

    Same with the extension sets. Also dirt-cheap.

    12" for me is a single gage block. So are 16" and 20". Smallest in THAT set is 5". I have another set that covers 6" on-down. "etc"

    Another handy "Old Skewl" system is not all that expensive, used, either.

    B&S Hite-I-Cator (inch), Cadillac Gage Pla-Check with 9" riser (inch), Starret-Webber Digi-Chek (Metric).

    See also a good set of micrometer "standards" and obsoleted sets of rods/tubes for jig borers surplused inexpensively.

    Calibration costs?

    Depends on your needs and what ELSE you have to vet stuff in-house. Collect enough of it, you can at least do enough cross-checking to know if you have a "problem".. or just the need to be aware of a range of uncertainty .... and find it "good enough for now". Or NOT.

  16. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Victoria, Texas, USA
    Posts
    4,825
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3508
    Likes (Received)
    1370

    Default

    Thermite,

    Lets see pictures of your longer gage blocks....

  17. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Salinas, CA USA
    Posts
    4,846
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    540
    Likes (Received)
    447

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 4GSR View Post
    Thermite,

    Lets see pictures of your longer gage blocks....
    I have yet to see any post of Thermite's with pictures, so good luck with that.

  18. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, New Hampshire
    Posts
    14,118
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3083
    Likes (Received)
    9358

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    I have yet to see any post of Thermite's with pictures, so good luck with that.
    I believe we should count ourselves "blessed" for that aspect...

  19. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    21,026
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    12294

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    I have yet to see any post of Thermite's with pictures, so good luck with that.
    More than 30 had been pulled a-purpose. 17,000 posts vanished.
    There are still a few out there anyway.

    Otherwise? "Look how pretty I am" show-and-tell? Not my bag.

    Useless until/whenever I am to sell, trade, or donate, and those go by 1:1 email.. "direct".

    What a seeker can actually USE for THEIR needs is what has value HERE:

    Ex: LINKS AND NOT photos:

    I have this set, but bought for waaay less money:

    Dearborn Ford Rectangular Steel Large/Long Gage Block Set - NN41 5.0" To 20" | eBay

    And this one. Also bought at a far lower price than the ask showing here.

    C.E. Johansson Gage Block Stand Clamps Set-Sweden | eBay

    But made at Ford, not in Sweden, so the listing may be in error?

    And a DoAll clamping set, not the same. Might be one on Ebay. The two above are the most general-purpose though.

    Chase whatever matches the shape and size of the REST of your gages set(s)

    NATURALLY .. what is showing TODAY.. will need a refresh so the search is CURRENT some OTHER day!

    Not hard for y'all to find "gage block spacer set", B&S Height-I-Cator, Cadillac Gage Pla-Check, or Starrett-Weber Digi-Chek fotos is it?

    I ain't running a "petting zoo" .....for small children, am I?



    images: <search term>

    .. does it fast and easy.

    BFD.

    - No PM server space wasted.

    - No Bandwidth wasted over and over and over each go..

    - Fewer broken fotos

    - Less time wasted.

    - Fewer infantile nut-cases encouraged to masturbate themselves in public.

    - Forever. He can't HELP it. DNA thing.

    Meanwhile...

    TEXT .. even with a ton of "whitespace.".. takes scary tiny amounts of storage, bandwidth, or transit time.

    Graphics are the soaker-upper ball-buster of bandwidth fees to a(ny) server-mavin.

    And I am he.

    Ingrained aversion to burdening PM when it is ALL "already out there" on somebody ELSE's server, dime, and bandwidth.

    Better to use PM WISELY to solve a PROBLEM.. Show a damaged item, ID a rare part. Analyse a failure.

    Something that needs shared review and THINKING to put sound minds to helpful work.

    AND NOT:

    "Look how brilliant I am!"
    "I can scrape RUST!"

    BFD. Nobody else ever had any rust?

    Well. Not to BRAG about, anyway? Too close a resemblance to shit to be all that proud of.

    Oh. Lookie! .... There is METAL....... UNDER the rust !!!

    F**k's sake?

    You were expecting Nova Lox and cream CHEESE?

    Or just chopped chik'n liver?


  20. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    613
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    272

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    I believe we should count ourselves "blessed" for that aspect...
    Agreed. RJ Newbould already blessed us once with a photo, I'm not sure we want Thermite to do the same, he has almost as good a sense of humor.

    On topic, I tend to put a set of 1-2-3 blocks around the base of the taller block, then handle them gingerly. A proper gauge block base would work as well.
    Setting between two angle blocks is my other favorite, but just moved close by hand, not actually secured to them.

    Like others, I've found that my gauge blocks are not square. I haven't tried it with the nice set, but for the cheaper sets I've tested by wringing them, then trying to wring them in a way that they can also sit flat on their side on my granite surface plate. Pressing down on the longer blocks always results in them un-wringing, which would not happen if they were square on the end. I haven't bothered to measure how far out they are, but it's enough for me to only trust that the finished surfaces are parallel and at the correct distance per the tolerances on the calibration sheet, but and nothing more.

  21. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    ch
    Posts
    3,379
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    279
    Likes (Received)
    471

    Default

    thats interesting. i would think the tolerances of the plate would make even perfect blocks come appart, no?

  22. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    613
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    272

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dian View Post
    thats interesting. i would think the tolerances of the plate would make even perfect blocks come appart, no?
    Yes, you're making some assumptions about the plate. I do wonder where "close enough" is. Not that I have one anymore, but making a 7" diameter surface flat to <1 µm is semi-reasonable task given a lapping machine of the right size. If I ever end up with one of those I could try it. My guess is that there's no need though. You can always just look for daylight under the blocks, or wave an indicator over the top when they are wrung and resting on their side.

  23. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    ch
    Posts
    3,379
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    279
    Likes (Received)
    471

    Default

    i believe (speculate) that 1µ out of flat would make them separate. i believe a 10 nano meter wedge would do it. (i dont have any long gauge blocks to try.)


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •