How to measure the center to face of a 45 degree plumbing fitting

I am trying to figure out how to measure the F1 and F2 dimensions.

Typical an engineer uses a Faro Arm to check this dimension but all the engineers are out with various reasons The faro arm is off limits to operators. I tried an existing program in the cmm but the results aren’t close when I used it on a known good part.

So how can I check the center to bottom of socket of this pipe fitting?


Thanks.

Pins and a comparator.

You have a CMM that sounds to have a bad program.
The engineers use a Faro arm which is off limits but they let you use the CMM. Very strange shop indeed
How big is the part?
I can see the pins and compartor on a small guy that fits on the screen but you had better have a shit load of tolerance as this will not be very accurate or repeatable unless you have pins to use in .0001 increments.
This is probably the CMM program problem also. Take that good part, relocate or twist a bit and see what the CMM says.
I would never use a Faro arm to measure this so that is spooky to start with.

Bore is short, can the outside faces be trusted to be true to the bore or are they rough still?
This is a CMM job IMO.
Many problems seen here as a measuring guy and engineering should have addressed this but one works with what you are given.
Bob

Drop a gauge ball in there and then check it with a depth micrometer. If you have access to cad, you can use that to model it and determine the depth you should measure from the end to ball.

make a simple fixture with 1/2 tooling holes, or 1/2 tooling balls on a sin plate.
having the 3D model would help, use stack up dim from the ball to the c'bore depth

I'd take a wire and bend to 45º. I'd then place it on top of the fitting and cut at the ends so it becomes the same "length" as the middle of the fitting. Easy to measure the wire after that. I can't for the life of me figure out why it needs to be more accurate. These items are mass produced.

Gordon B. Clarke said:

I'd take a wire and bend to 45º. I'd then place it on top of the fitting and cut at the ends so it becomes the same "length" as the middle of the fitting. Easy to measure the wire after that. I can't for the life of me figure out why it needs to be more accurate. These items are mass produced.

Click to expand...

You need to re-read the OP. A piece of bent wire will not measure the 'F' dimension.

camscan said:

You need to re-read the OP. A piece of bent wire will not measure the 'F' dimension.

Click to expand...

I suggest you think about what I wrote.

1. You don't measure the wire. You measure the distance to the bend in the wire. If the thread is a straight thread then measure the thread depth. Subtract from the wire length to the bend.

2. If the thread is a tapered thread distance "F" is irrelevant.

In fact I still don't get why knowing "F" has any relevance. Looks like a standard 45º pipe fitting. If "F" has relevance I'll apologise to the OP.

BTW I suggest you get someone to check your twitchy fingers as you are always in the first 3 with my "Recent Visitors". If it isn't a physical problem then I'd think you followed me around.

use stack up dimensions and fixt as posted above

maybe you jackoffs can help me. I managed to clog all my toilets trying to flush large piles of Spam down them. You guys seem to be experts in spam. What should I do?

Do you want to get the dimensions from a drawing or do you want to check real parts ???
Calculating the wanted dimensions from a drawing is simple math
If you can draw it up youcan calculate it
I would start with that and see if it matches
How accurate do you need to go??

Peter

Building on Gordon's good plan of the wire, I would substitute a flat gauge instead of the wire that would mimic the inside intersect of the two angles (looking at the right inside of the drawing). This gauge would be inserted into the part and held in place with a wood wedge (or metal) entered from the opposite of the being measured end. Then with using a plug gauge For+- .005 or a depth micrometer for +- .001 an accurate measure could be made.

Yes, splitting one part in half would be an aid to make this gauge.

Likely I would make this gauge a little long and then feel in the size to shoot for a simple for the convenience of the operator (like hit a zero). The gauge would be stamped for the target size.

if the part had a tolerance of +- .005 or more It would be made to be a feel-flush gauge so no measuring tool would be needed.

Having some flat stock on hand and a surface grinder the gauge would take about 1/2 hour to make with no print needed. The gauge print could be made after the gauge is made.

Splitting the part in half would be scribing the part with a surface gauge scriber, and eyeball to the line/nothing fancy.

For an inside radius often I would bevel the gauge corners to facet match the part inside rather than rounding the gauge just to make the gauge quicker to make.

At the big shop, I kept a supply of drops of various sizes and hardness so to have a nice piece on gauge stock on hand. I kept a bottle of gun blue and would blue/black a gauge so only the gauging surfaces were bright so to help the operator understand the gauge function. Engineering often would draw-up after the gauge was tried.

Often I would use a parting wheel set to the go-side of center and so be able to hack up hard stock as fast as one could saw mild stock.