Re-marking gage pins
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    Default Re-marking gage pins

    Is there a proper way to re apply the size marking on a vermont gage pin without destroying the accuracy. There are shop floor call ZZ, so they aren't super nice anyway, but they are good enough for 90 percent of our work.

    It would be nice if we could see what size they are!

    Thanks

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    You want to measure over the marked area?

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    I believe the original markings are lasered.

    You really shouldn't have more than 2 pins out at a time. Just keep them organized. Verify sizes with mics.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbideBob View Post
    You want to measure over the marked area?
    I don't think it would be necessary, as long as whatever marking isn't proud I should be fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newtonsapple View Post
    I believe the original markings are lasered.

    You really shouldn't have more than 2 pins out at a time. Just keep them organized. Verify sizes with mics.
    Well sure, per hole. Unless we are making a part with 15 different holes, go nogo across 10 machines. Mostly I want my guys to be able to put them back easily. People get lazy on a Friday night.

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    Buy new? Sorry if that comes across as snarkly, but if the pins are worn enough to not read the size....

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    Fiber Laser or electrochemical etcher,
    McMaster-Carr

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    Buy new? Sorry if that comes across as snarkly, but if the pins are worn enough to not read the size....
    No not snarky at all, and I know that's the right move for more precise pins, but for shop floor +/- .005 type stuff they are definitely still good. I don't care if they are worn a few tenths.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbideBob View Post
    Fiber Laser or electrochemical etcher,
    McMaster-Carr
    That etcher is really interesting, that might be just the thing. Are they quick to use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BRIAN.T View Post
    That etcher is really interesting, that might be just the thing. Are they quick to use?
    You have to make a different stencil for each number. This is the biggest time eater.
    Old school typewriter the best.
    Old dot matrix printers with no ribbon also works but a tad more work and making the software print in the right spot as you have to attach the stencil to the paper in just where it wants to be.
    You can hand draw it and it works fine.

    Very quick to use, on round items you sort of roll it against the flat stencil so 10-15 seconds vs the 2-3 seconds for flat parts.
    You will want a test part to get the process nailed down where you learn the time, roll speed and pad wet.
    In this type manual it will take a few tries but this a tried and true process.

    I do most certainly understand the problem at the floor. I have the same. Why do I have to get out a glass to read the number on a pin that has some life used?
    Lets all just go buy new stuff ever year if hard to read..... Not in my world if it calibrates.

    The etch or laser will have depth. CO2 additive marking is laser printing and will have height. People must know not to use it over the marked area.
    Bob
    (I hope this helps in some small way)

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    Vermont ZZ minus pin gages are about $1/pin when you buy a set. $200 for .061"-.250". $275 for 251"-.500". Is it really worth the hassle to remark already worn pins?

    Regards.

    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by BRIAN.T View Post
    No not snarky at all, and I know that's the right move for more precise pins, but for shop floor +/- .005 type stuff they are definitely still good. I don't care if they are worn a few tenths.

    Sorry, don't want to get too deep into this as you have an idea you want. +/-.005" should be good enough to make shop made pins, or telescoping gages?

    Or https://www.amazon.com/HFS-0-061-0-2...2444692&sr=8-5

    ?? Or even, if you are really just shooting for .005, can etch and smooth out with fine grit sandpaper and scotch brite, measure afterwards and mark .2498" of whatever....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    Sorry, don't want to get too deep into this as you have an idea you want. +/-.005" should be good enough to make shop made pins, or telescoping gages?

    Or https://www.amazon.com/HFS-0-061-0-2...2444692&sr=8-5

    ?? Or even, if you are really just shooting for .005, can etch and smooth out with fine grit sandpaper and scotch brite, measure afterwards and mark .2498" of whatever....
    I had a couple of sets of these. 11 thou to 500 thou. 3 boxes for the set by memory.
    And one for the shop floor and one for inspection (measure before use).
    Superb value for money.

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    Quote Originally Posted by barbter View Post
    I had a couple of sets of these. 11 thou to 500 thou. 3 boxes for the set by memory.
    And one for the shop floor and one for inspection (measure before use).
    Superb value for money.
    That's the thing with cheap tools, use them when you can! I had a couple sets of the bottom barrel Amazon chineses imports, perfectly fine for +/-.001 and maybe even tighter. Keep your Vermonts for the lab inspections, then the numbers won't wear off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Finegrain View Post
    Vermont ZZ minus pin gages are about $1/pin when you buy a set. $200 for .061"-.250". $275 for 251"-.500". Is it really worth the hassle to remark already worn pins?

    Regards.

    Mike
    You might be right... Hmmm. It's definitely not worth MY time... But it might be worth someone's else's time at work!

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    [QUOTE=BRIAN.T;3639912]You might be right... Hmmm. It's definitely not worth MY time... But it might be worth someone's else's time at work![/QUOT

    How about at $0.76/piece 190 piece .061-.250 @$145 https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Gage-...63&sr=8-7&th=1

    Or $0.86/piece for the big ones 250pcs .251-.500 @$215 https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Gage-...63&sr=8-7&th=1

    Or even cheaper with the right 25% off coupon: Results in "Gauge Blocks and Clamps" from "VERMONT GAGE"

    Decent ZZ class gage pins are cheap. Buy the both plus and minus sets and teach everyone how to use them (and the 1/2 size sets if you have holes spec'd to .0005" nominals).

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    [QUOTE=newtonsapple;3639920]
    Quote Originally Posted by BRIAN.T View Post
    You might be right... Hmmm. It's definitely not worth MY time... But it might be worth someone's else's time at work![/QUOT

    How about at $0.76/piece 190 piece .061-.250 @$145 https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Gage-...63&sr=8-7&th=1

    Or $0.86/piece for the big ones 250pcs .251-.500 @$215 https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Gage-...63&sr=8-7&th=1

    Or even cheaper with the right 25% off coupon: Results in "Gauge Blocks and Clamps" from "VERMONT GAGE"

    Decent ZZ class gage pins are cheap. Buy the both plus and minus sets and teach everyone how to use them (and the 1/2 size sets if you have holes spec'd to .0005" nominals).
    I'm actually kind of embarrassed I haven't looked into this before. I've been buying replacement pins at $3.50 or whatever for so long I assumed a set was $500 or something. I'm not sure I've ever personally purchased a full set.

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    If you're using them 15 at a time, buy some handles, set up go/nogo sets on the handles, and put a sticker on the handle listing the size.

    As to why go/nogo pins vs. calipers, bore gauges, etc. the answer is the pins are faster.

    Tape labels work nicely short term if you don't want to deal with handles.

    Past that, they really are cheap to replace. The issue isn't that the pin is still good, the issue is that a brand new pin with a decent label is cheaper than applying a more permanent replacement label. This isn't a $250 pair of calipers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jccaclimber View Post
    If you're using them 15 at a time, buy some handles, set up go/nogo sets on the handles, and put a sticker on the handle listing the size.

    As to why go/nogo pins vs. calipers, bore gauges, etc. the answer is the pins are faster.

    Tape labels work nicely short term if you don't want to deal with handles.

    Past that, they really are cheap to replace. The issue isn't that the pin is still good, the issue is that a brand new pin with a decent label is cheaper than applying a more permanent replacement label. This isn't a $250 pair of calipers.
    I actually just purchased about 60 pin handles for various go/no go gages, including all the minor diameters for threads. After the last comment on here I realized everyone was right, they are really inexpensive to replace.


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