What's new
What's new

Lapping Rectangular Gage Block Jaws

JoshJay

Plastic
Joined
Apr 20, 2018
Does anyone know where I can get my rectangular gage block jaws lapped? The length of the jaw is not relevant as we do not use the outside of them, they just need to be flat and parallel. They're worn from years of use and we were quoted about 7k to have all sets replaced. Thank you!

20180807_151344.jpg
 
7K? How many do you have? I doubt you will ever get them lapped to the precision of a gage block. Quit kidding yourself and just throw them away.
 
Does anyone know where I can get my rectangular gage block jaws lapped? The length of the jaw is not relevant as we do not use the outside of them, they just need to be flat and parallel. They're worn from years of use and we were quoted about 7k to have all sets replaced. Thank you!

View attachment 235061

?? Many of the makers and several reputable independents offer "wear blocks", missing block fill-ins, calibration and repair.

I've used A. A. Jansson:

Gage Blocks - Waterford, Michigan - A.A. Jansson, Inc.

...but "wear" from MEASURING is never great. One uses these to "vet" a bespoke gage. That one goes out and lives on the shop floor - not the master blocks themselves.

"Jaws"?

What ARE you doing with these? D'you mean "ends"?

The photo resembles my C.E. Johansson / Ford / Dearborn extension set.

We aren't discussing "parallels" or vise-jaw inserts, are we?

And how many is "all sets"?

Eight large would just about buy ONE set of (now a Starrett holding) Weber Croblox or Mitutoyo's best goods at new prices.
 
?? Many of the makers and several reputable independents offer "wear blocks", missing block fill-ins, calibration and repair.

I've used A. A. Jansson:

Gage Blocks - Waterford, Michigan - A.A. Jansson, Inc.

...but "wear" from MEASURING is never great. One uses these to "vet" a bespoke gage. That one goes out and lives on the shop floor - not the master blocks themselves.

"Jaws"?

What ARE you doing with these? D'you mean "ends"?

The photo resembles my C.E. Johansson / Ford / Dearborn extension set.

We aren't discussing "parallels" or vise-jaw inserts, are we?

And how many is "all sets"?

Eight large would just about buy ONE set of (now a Starrett holding) Weber Croblox or Mitutoyo's best goods at new prices.

No,refer to the attached photo in my op. They are the jaws that stick out past the tops of the rect blocks so you can set bore gages or any ID gage. They are worn from carbide contacts on bore gages. Like I said we don't use the outside of these blocks so as long as they are flat and par we are good. I would say flat within .00004".
 
Your in Minn, there was an old machinery magazine article showing how DoAll made
their blocks, and IIRC it was in Minn.

Lot's of lapping....
 
did you contact gage block manufacturer about lapping your worn blocks ? obviously they would have the equipment and know how
.
as to cost that same question everybody says they got $100,000 of old stuff and want them back to new condition and have only a $100 budget. there is such a thing as unrealistic expectations
 
did you contact gage block manufacturer about lapping your worn blocks ? obviously they would have the equipment and know how
.
as to cost that same question everybody says they got $100,000 of old stuff and want them back to new condition and have only a $100 budget. there is such a thing as unrealistic expectations

I'm not trying to get it done free... just looking for the best deal.
 
Or, bite the bullet and start replacing them with carbide or ceramic ones. Using steel blocks against carbide-tipped gages, on my opinion, is a good recipe for accelerated wear.
Just evaluate how long it took for them to become out of specs, how much it costs to lap them, and for how many years you estimate you will still use them.

Paolo
 
Here is another photo if that helps clarify what I am inquiring.:smoking:

View attachment 235116

Thanks for that. Helpful if it had been the FIRST of your photos, actually.
Carbide-tipped gages, I'd have the same problem long-term at an even higher wear-correction cost if I used the B&S Height-Icator.

However.. smaller, stock, "ordinary" carbide wear blocks, one at SP surface, the other underhung off the Heighticator, I think the long-term cost would be much lower and the setup time for each of many gage sizes shorter as well.

And that's with Old Skewl methods. Obsolete. VERY! That's why I could even AFFORD the B&S goods at all!

For hobby use.

:)

I wouldn't even THINK about obsolete methods in a revenoo shop. They eat-up fully-burdened labor costs first time, every time, forever.

Electronics should be faster, lower cost in use, easier and cheaper to have calibrated.

2CW
 
Thanks for that. Helpful if it had been the FIRST of your photos, actually.
Carbide-tipped gages, I'd have the same problem long-term at an even higher wear-correction cost if I used the B&S Height-Icator.

However.. smaller, stock, "ordinary" carbide wear blocks, one at SP surface, the other underhung off the Heighticator, I think the long-term cost would be much lower and the setup time for each of many gage sizes shorter as well.

And that's with Old Skewl methods. Obsolete. VERY! That's why I could even AFFORD the B&S goods at all!

For hobby use.

:)

I wouldn't even THINK about obsolete methods in a revenoo shop. They eat-up fully-burdened labor costs first time, every time, forever.

Electronics should be faster, lower cost in use, easier and cheaper to have calibrated.

2CW

Page Two: If what you show - ID measure as far as the block stack goes - is ALL you do?

The "jaws" don't need to be any particular width or thickness. Just have to be reasonably FLAT.

That might not be all that expensive a characteristic to "just buy", even in Carbide.

I don't have longish gage block "jaws" of that sort here. I'd have to use Stellite or HSS-Cobalt tool blanks to stick-up, f'rinstance.

3CW
 
Page Two: If what you show - ID measure as far as the block stack goes - is ALL you do?

The "jaws" don't need to be any particular width or thickness. Just have to be reasonably FLAT.

That might not be all that expensive a characteristic to "just buy", even in Carbide.

3CW

you seem to be reasonably clueless as to what these are used for.

To the OP, I have no idea how big your operation is, but do you really need 70 sets?
 
you seem to be reasonably clueless as to what these are used for.
All I can go on is what is in the photo. Looks like setting a tri-mic tribe bore gage. Bit of math involved, tri-lobes as they are. Dorsey Gage and similar clans could build a bespoke rig for yah. Faster to use. Less wear issue.

I could be wrong, of course.

Its only the one photo...

:D
 








 
Back
Top