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10 EE collet nose removal

ezduzit

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Location
Marina del Rey, California
My new to me 1971 square dial has the pictured spindle arrangement. How do I remove the collet nose in order to install the D1-3 chuck?

All comments welcome. Thanks fellas.

 
A blunt bar and a hammer from other side of headstock, to get it off taper. Might want a box or something to catch it. A piece of round stock to fit down inside of spindle, but large enough to fully contact the adapter so you don't ding it when you give it a whack.
 
Duh! Thanks fellas. I really should have been all over this. My bad. Was afraid to damage something in my ignorance.

Is there any reason to remove the entire collet closing mechanism when using the chuck? Never had to concern myself with this setup before. Thinking the inner tube might not want to be rattling around in there.
 
Did the lathe come with a pair of drawtube hanger brackets on the back side of the headstock? I've seen some lathes with Monarch lever-op collet closers that had them and others that did not.
 
Did the lathe come with a pair of drawtube hanger brackets on the back side of the headstock? I've seen some lathes with Monarch lever-op collet closers that had them and others that did not.

It came with this JFK collet closer setup installed. But it does have the brackets on the back. And I only just now learned what needed to be done to allow the use of the D1-3 3-jaw chuck it came with. Also bought a 4-jaw for it which has the D1-3 backing plate.

 
Here's a shot from an old manual (Sunstrand hydraulic drive) showing the knockout bar in place:

10ee_old_bed.jpg

1-ee_old_bed.jpg
 
can you give a little description / pictures of the those casters/skates?

This is the seller's eBay photo (colored red to distinguish between his other models; the actual skates are black bodies). eBay seller "santschifarms". I paid $220 for a set of 4. Great seller.

Cut my first chips today on the Monarch! Very quiet and nice overall. Had a bit of a start when I first fired it up and, when nothing happened after putting it in both forward and reverse, finally figured out that the speed control goes all the way to zero!!! Doh!

 
I have one question about knock out bars. Are the ones for 10EE all the same length? i.e. if you have a 5C lever-op collet closer, it extends the spindle 4-5". Even if you remove the draw tube the regular length knockout bar is too short.
 
I have one question about knock out bars. Are the ones for 10EE all the same length? i.e. if you have a 5C lever-op collet closer, it extends the spindle 4-5". Even if you remove the draw tube the regular length knockout bar is too short.

That's kind of strange. I've always thought that my lathe had been retrofitted for a collet holder since it has a couple of setscrew holes cut on the outboard end but it's pretty normal in length.

Anyone have both and can measure the spindle length?
 
Total length of mine, as pictured, from the left end of the collet closer to the right end of the collet nose is about 31"; 5-3/8" of that is what extends beyond the lathe's end cover.

 
I think the confusion here is that (so far as I know) the knock out bar won't pass through the collet draw bar. It shouldn't have to as the taper is being blocked by the collet draw bar. The exception to that is if you have a 12 Jarno to 5C adaptor (is that possible?) and have a draw bar shortened for that. In that case you might get something into the 12 Jarno taper with the collet draw in place and would have to have something custom for the knock-out bar.

In either case the 10EE *spindle* is the same length.
 








 
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