10 EE collet nose removal
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  1. #1
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    Default 10 EE collet nose removal

    My new to me 1971 square dial has the pictured spindle arrangement. How do I remove the collet nose in order to install the D1-3 chuck?

    All comments welcome. Thanks fellas.


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    It is held in the spindle taper, you need a knock out bar. Something solid bout 1" in diameter through the back of the spindle, usually just the weight of the bar is all that is needed tap moderately. Have a hand over it so it doesn't pop out and hit something.

    Steve

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    A blunt bar and a hammer from other side of headstock, to get it off taper. Might want a box or something to catch it. A piece of round stock to fit down inside of spindle, but large enough to fully contact the adapter so you don't ding it when you give it a whack.

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    Duh! Thanks fellas. I really should have been all over this. My bad. Was afraid to damage something in my ignorance.

    Is there any reason to remove the entire collet closing mechanism when using the chuck? Never had to concern myself with this setup before. Thinking the inner tube might not want to be rattling around in there.

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    You can't knock out the spindle nose with the draw bar in the spindle.

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal View Post
    You can't knock out the spindle nose with the draw bar in the spindle.

    Steve
    Got it. Figures that the ID of the drawbar prevents getting the knockout bar to contact the nose.

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    Did the lathe come with a pair of drawtube hanger brackets on the back side of the headstock? I've seen some lathes with Monarch lever-op collet closers that had them and others that did not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    Did the lathe come with a pair of drawtube hanger brackets on the back side of the headstock? I've seen some lathes with Monarch lever-op collet closers that had them and others that did not.
    It came with this JFK collet closer setup installed. But it does have the brackets on the back. And I only just now learned what needed to be done to allow the use of the D1-3 3-jaw chuck it came with. Also bought a 4-jaw for it which has the D1-3 backing plate.


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    Those brackets are for the knock out bar.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    Those brackets are for the knock out bar.
    Thanks. Always wondered what they were for when I've seen them on so many lathes.

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    Here's a shot from an old manual (Sunstrand hydraulic drive) showing the knockout bar in place:



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    Those bar hangars are on the back of mine. The front looks like this.


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    Quote Originally Posted by ezduzit View Post
    Those bar hangars are on the back of mine. The front looks like this.

    can you give a little description / pictures of the those casters/skates?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdub63 View Post
    can you give a little description / pictures of the those casters/skates?
    This is the seller's eBay photo (colored red to distinguish between his other models; the actual skates are black bodies). eBay seller "santschifarms". I paid $220 for a set of 4. Great seller.

    Cut my first chips today on the Monarch! Very quiet and nice overall. Had a bit of a start when I first fired it up and, when nothing happened after putting it in both forward and reverse, finally figured out that the speed control goes all the way to zero!!! Doh!


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    The knock out bar hangers are on the back of the machines with push button stations on the front right corner of the base. Not sure when the change occurred, earlier maybe even later round dial machines? That Sundstrand machine is the only one I recall seeing with the bar in front.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal View Post
    That Sundstrand machine is the only one I recall seeing with the bar in front.
    My 59 WIAD has the bar in front, I thought they all did up to the Modular, as the bar wouldn't work with that door.

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    I have one question about knock out bars. Are the ones for 10EE all the same length? i.e. if you have a 5C lever-op collet closer, it extends the spindle 4-5". Even if you remove the draw tube the regular length knockout bar is too short.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    I have one question about knock out bars. Are the ones for 10EE all the same length? i.e. if you have a 5C lever-op collet closer, it extends the spindle 4-5". Even if you remove the draw tube the regular length knockout bar is too short.
    That's kind of strange. I've always thought that my lathe had been retrofitted for a collet holder since it has a couple of setscrew holes cut on the outboard end but it's pretty normal in length.

    Anyone have both and can measure the spindle length?

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  32. #19
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    Total length of mine, as pictured, from the left end of the collet closer to the right end of the collet nose is about 31"; 5-3/8" of that is what extends beyond the lathe's end cover.


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    I think the confusion here is that (so far as I know) the knock out bar won't pass through the collet draw bar. It shouldn't have to as the taper is being blocked by the collet draw bar. The exception to that is if you have a 12 Jarno to 5C adaptor (is that possible?) and have a draw bar shortened for that. In that case you might get something into the 12 Jarno taper with the collet draw in place and would have to have something custom for the knock-out bar.

    In either case the 10EE *spindle* is the same length.

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