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10EE Apron questions

dinotom

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
In the video shown below (cross-feed friction group) I am getting very little travel. I have spun the gears and they do all work correctly but I have to hold this handle down to keep the contact or bang it with my hand. The longitudinal works just fine. There is no amount of adjustment I haven't tried on the nut to get it right. Since one can never be 100%, I am 98-99% certain that everything on the shaft is in the correct order as I checked it several times as I was having trouble getting the pin in the end of shaft collar.

[video]https://batlgroupimages.blob.core.windows.net/accessibleimages/10EE_CrossFeedFrictionGroup_ShortTravel.MOV[/video]

Any thoughts appreciated.

Second problem.

How on earth do you get this new oil drip line in? I spent 90 minutes trying about everything I can think of. I was hesitant to take it out but it came out so easy I figured it would go in easy. (Wrong!)

Assuming I CANNOT get it in, are there any work arounds?

Monarch_10EE_Image_NewOilDripLine.jpg

Thanks, I need to finish this up so I can get to the gearbox
 
In the video shown below (cross-feed friction group) I am getting very little travel. I have spun the gears and they do all work correctly but I have to hold this handle down to keep the contact or bang it with my hand. The longitudinal works just fine. There is no amount of adjustment I haven't tried on the nut to get it right. Since one can never be 100%, I am 98-99% certain that everything on the shaft is in the correct order as I checked it several times as I was having trouble getting the pin in the end of shaft collar.

[video]https://batlgroupimages.blob.core.windows.net/accessibleimages/10EE_CrossFeedFrictionGroup_ShortTravel.MOV[/video]

Any thoughts appreciated.

Second problem.

How on earth do you get this new oil drip line in? I spent 90 minutes trying about everything I can think of. I was hesitant to take it out but it came out so easy I figured it would go in easy. (Wrong!)

Assuming I CANNOT get it in, are there any work arounds?

View attachment 314737

Thanks, I need to finish this up so I can get to the gearbox


Make sure you have cleaned out all the old tube "seating" material out of the tube hole.....I think it was melted sodium originally. That hole was also drilled with 2 different drill operations and one of the holes was filled with a set screw.....at least on a round dial. Maybe that is messing you up. Don't forget to pinch the end of the tube that feeds the worm screw for the carriage feed otherwise it will gobble up all your oil.

Regarding the feed clutch....I'm not sure. Yes the nut needs to be adjusted to setup the lever action and how it locks the clutch in. I hate to say it, but it may have to come back apart. Others may have other ideas.
 
Can you see the gear with the recess move back against the cone piece as you move the lever, similar the longitudinal? If not there may be something in with the spring that isn’t right.
 
I don't know if these pics are any help. Those lever assy. are not the greatest design. (don't kill me). I found the shafts on mine galled and grooved. I cut off the bad shafts and made new ones that screwed and locktited to those adjustment hoops. Then put a fine thread on the end. The flanges that mount on the back of the apron had worn oversize, so bored and reamed these to the next oversize and made new shaft end pieces to suit. These end pieces were threaded for the shaft so I could adjust the endplay on the whole assy. The new end pieces were threaded for a locking screw so didn't need to fit a new taper pin, which I though was awful for this location. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/apron-pics-98681/?highlight=apron+pics
 
I know you don't want to hear this, but I think you will need to take apart and check the stack in between the cone and cup pieces. On my stems only two of the four thrust bearings were good. The inch size is no longer made, but I was able to adapt closely sized metric thus bearings to fit.
 
I know you don't want to hear this, but I think you will need to take apart and check the stack in between the cone and cup pieces. On my stems only two of the four thrust bearings were good. The inch size is no longer made, but I was able to adapt closely sized metric thus bearings to fit.

There's three thrust bearings on each in my '42 round dial. Do we know what year the OP's is? The small one was available from INA, the larger ones were not. I did the same, adapted it. I've had to do a few of those during the rebuild but there has always been an adaptable metric alternative

The copper lines are a pain - I didn't realize there is material you can remove to make it easier. I replaced the line to the pump and ended doing it in two sections, that were joined by loctited them in a 90 degree elbow I made
 
It is a Nov 1944 Round dial. I did that section of copper tubing in two pieces as well and used Loctite compound on both sides. Even after cleaning out all the passage and heating the copper tube and using the set screw hole to try and bend it in transit thru the hole I just couldn't get it to bend enough to go all the way into the cavity. All of the thrust bearings in my apron were in very good shape and did not need replacing.
 








 
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