beejax
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Location
- San Diego, USA
I am needing a little bit more travel from my 10EE compound rest. is there a way to remove the stop to allow more travel? thanks...Brian
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10EE compound
- Thread starter beejax
- Start date
- Replies 15
- Views 2,433
rke[pler
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2002
- Location
- Peralta, NM USA
What stop? So far as I know you're just running into the nut.
beejax
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Location
- San Diego, USA
By backing out the compound further it would allow me to have more travel when feeding in.I hope this makes sense.
beejax
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Location
- San Diego, USA
I am trying to back the compound out past whatever is stopping it.There is nothing wrong with the compound. turning the handle CCW.
bsg
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Location
- Imlay City, Michigan
Are you getting more than a couple of revolutions before you contact the stop, if so it’s not the threading stop?
Are you trying to face a large part to the center?
Otherwise, you are at the mechanical limits of the machine, unsure if you made a spacer to go under the handle if you could actually machine to the center of your part?
Usually, you would just shift the tool post or compound to allow the tool to cut the larger diameter......post some pictures of your setup?
Kevin
Are you trying to face a large part to the center?
Otherwise, you are at the mechanical limits of the machine, unsure if you made a spacer to go under the handle if you could actually machine to the center of your part?
Usually, you would just shift the tool post or compound to allow the tool to cut the larger diameter......post some pictures of your setup?
Kevin
rke[pler
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2002
- Location
- Peralta, NM USA
Here's an except from the 1958 brochure:
It says 2" travel. I just checked my '56 and it's really more like 3" - 1/2" over hang and 2 1/2" back from no overhang.
I'm still trying to figure out what you're doing with your compound. About all it's really designed to do is infeed for threading type operations or maybe the occasional short length taper. For 'real' work you want the compound set where the top slide has the most contact with it's base and you provide infeed with the cross slide. This gives the most support in the slide ways for the tool and work. Longitudinal feeds should be with the carriage modulo something weird going on with the cut.
I usually leave the compound gib fairly tight just so there's a fair amount of rigidity. Some folks have just deleted the compound and replaced it with a block, I don't think the 10EE needs that if you stay in it's normal work envelope.
It says 2" travel. I just checked my '56 and it's really more like 3" - 1/2" over hang and 2 1/2" back from no overhang.
I'm still trying to figure out what you're doing with your compound. About all it's really designed to do is infeed for threading type operations or maybe the occasional short length taper. For 'real' work you want the compound set where the top slide has the most contact with it's base and you provide infeed with the cross slide. This gives the most support in the slide ways for the tool and work. Longitudinal feeds should be with the carriage modulo something weird going on with the cut.
I usually leave the compound gib fairly tight just so there's a fair amount of rigidity. Some folks have just deleted the compound and replaced it with a block, I don't think the 10EE needs that if you stay in it's normal work envelope.
bsg
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Location
- Imlay City, Michigan
beejax
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Location
- San Diego, USA
I’m trying to cut a 4” long internal taper in wood. I’m needing to increase the compounds overhang a bit so I can make a continuous cut.I do not have a taper attachment. Thanks for the interest.
donie
Diamond
- Joined
- May 17, 2003
- Location
- Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
The problem is no one here knows the nature of wood! All that you need to do is, attach a piece of steel to use as guide on the compound rest set at the angle you want, and use a proper wood turning tool, fed by hand to do the job-remember it is wood, not pre hard 4140. But, if it is something like Snakewood, that is a different situation.
One would think, the "Drunk Hick in the Barn" might know something about wood!
"Oh, surely. Yah figure right about two feet might do it? Or over on the bench, t'other side of the shop?
I mean yah have that internal taper, so yah have to keep the center out of the way to git a bar down into it."
Looks like not! yah yah yah...
One would think, the "Drunk Hick in the Barn" might know something about wood!
"Oh, surely. Yah figure right about two feet might do it? Or over on the bench, t'other side of the shop?
I mean yah have that internal taper, so yah have to keep the center out of the way to git a bar down into it."
Looks like not! yah yah yah...
BugRobotics
Stainless
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2015
- Location
- Denver, CO
Hey beejax,
You may be well aware of this approach but thought I'd mention just in case. Normally when I need a taper that isn't crazy long or tight tolerance I'll stick a tool in a tool holder at the angle required and go to town (plunging into the work with the crosslide). If you have a DRO you can make your life a bit easier by being able to set your tool and do some math beforehand to enable doing a small amount of the taper at at time. This can get pretty difficult/impractical if your material has a thin wall.
You may be well aware of this approach but thought I'd mention just in case. Normally when I need a taper that isn't crazy long or tight tolerance I'll stick a tool in a tool holder at the angle required and go to town (plunging into the work with the crosslide). If you have a DRO you can make your life a bit easier by being able to set your tool and do some math beforehand to enable doing a small amount of the taper at at time. This can get pretty difficult/impractical if your material has a thin wall.
beejax
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Location
- San Diego, USA
Ive been doing it in stages but would be nice to do it in one go. Blind hole with square bottom.
rimcanyon
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Location
- Salinas, CA USA
Duck and Cover
The faceoff between the "Drunk Hick in the Barn" and the "Down-Wind Hanford Atomic Harley Guy" is at High Noon. Y'All be there!
The faceoff between the "Drunk Hick in the Barn" and the "Down-Wind Hanford Atomic Harley Guy" is at High Noon. Y'All be there!
Cal Haines
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2002
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Here's a photo showing the parts that make up the compound on my round-dial (square-dial compounds are similar):
As Russ says, there are no stops. The top slide moves one direction until the nut (seen at the end of the ACME screw in the photo above) contacts the shoulder on the dial end of the threads. In the other direction, the nut bumps into the end of the slot milled in the top slide. I think that in your application (woodworking), you could try taking the compound apart and removing all of the parts associated with the screw, including the nut, end plate, etc., leaving you with just the top and bottom slides plus the gib. You would have to feed it in and out by pushing/pulling the top slide. If necessary, you could clamp a piece of 1x2 to the side of the top slide so that you could attach something to limit the travel of the slide. I suspect that you could easily get another inch or so of travel that way.
Cal
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beejax
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Location
- San Diego, USA
Thanks guys.