10ee coolant pump switch

I'm not really sure how it happened but this 1951ish 10ee is sitting on a trailer outside my shop.... I was taking off covers before I lift it off the trailer and came across a coolant pump in the compartment directly below the chip tray. As I have only found one off and one on button I was wondering where the hell the switch is for that pump?????

It's a running M-G system ( how well I really don't know) and was working in a shop. There are no coolant lines outside the compartment and I was surprised to find the B&S pump sitting in there.

I would guess, and it's just a guess as mine doesn't have a coolant system. I would guess that it comes on automatically when you turn on the spindle. That machine is bad ass, did it have some sort of tracer attachment?


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ShawFab said:

I would guess, and it's just a guess as mine doesn't have a coolant system. I would guess that it comes on automatically when you turn on the spindle. That machine is bad ass, did it have some sort of tracer attachment?


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No on the tracer.. It has an air powered collet chuck, the stuff suspended above the headstock is the lever and water separator for that..

The paint job on it is the worst I have ever seen, it will take a complete strip down to bare metal before it will get better..

We are taking the taper attachment off if it to put on Andy's machine and bought it to provide those parts..

swatkins said:

No on the tracer.. It has an air powered collet chuck, the stuff suspended above the headstock is the lever and water separator for that..

The paint job on it is the worst I have ever seen, it will take a complete strip down to bare metal before it will get better..

We are taking the taper attachment off if it to put on Andy's machine and bought it to provide those parts..

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I'm curious what the mount on the taper attachment is for, as well as the one on the headstock. I would bet after so many years even the people that owned the machine don't even know.
I have recently acquired a taper attachment but I'm missing a couple of parts as well as it has yet to be determined if I have the telescopic lead screw. My machine didn't come originally with a taper attachment so I'm skeptical. I have read there is a chance they installed what they had so maybe I do. When it's not freezing in the shop I'll get to figuring it out. Good luck with your swap and take lots of pictures[emoji6]


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The thing that puzzles me is why they took off the regular data plate and replaced it with the crappy aluminum plate with a hand stamped serial number...

After all they slopped paint all over everything else, why be bothered to not paint it also...

I assume it's the same number that is on the bed, will check when we lift it off tomorrow..

ShawFab said:

I'm curious what the mount on the taper attachment is for, as well as the one on the headstock. I would bet after so many years even the people that owned the machine don't even know.
I have recently acquired a taper attachment but I'm missing a couple of parts as well as it has yet to be determined if I have the telescopic lead screw. My machine didn't come originally with a taper attachment so I'm skeptical. I have read there is a chance they installed what they had so maybe I do. When it's not freezing in the shop I'll get to figuring it out. Good luck with your swap and take lots of pictures[emoji6]


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Where the heck are you? It's 85 here

swatkins said:

came across a coolant pump in the compartment directly below the chip tray. As I have only found one off and one on button I was wondering where the hell the switch is for that pump?????

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On the schematic in the manual we order from Monarch Lathe LP with our serial number, of course. IOW not always as a separate switch, backside of HS, near thermal overload reset button, but most-often where it is.

Coolant pump plumbing usually missing.

Braid-protected flex from a common pipe ell where the sump drains thence to the pump intake. Your own plan for whatever you chose for plumbing the output to where you need it. All are dirt-common US fittings.

Pump is 3-phase, even on 10EE where the drive system is not. I removed mine, bought a separate 1-Phase pump to get around that 3-P need.

Bill

On some of the early machine someone said the coolant switch was on the backside of the headstock on the corner panel. On some early machines a reset button is also located there.

Hal

swatkins said:

Where the heck are you? It's 85 here

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Columbus, Ohio. It was 60 here today! I was in the shop most of the day but that high of a temperature is short lived.


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swatkins said:

I'm not really sure how it happened but this 1951ish 10ee is sitting on a trailer outside my shop.... I was taking off covers before I lift it off the trailer and came across a coolant pump in the compartment directly below the chip tray. As I have only found one off and one on button I was wondering where the hell the switch is for that pump?????

It's a running M-G system ( how well I really don't know) and was working in a shop. There are no coolant lines outside the compartment and I was surprised to find the B&S pump sitting in there.


View attachment 190918

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Look on the back of the machine, back side of the quick change gearbox and behind the post that has the fused disconnect box on it. You'll find a cast cover held on with two shoulder bolts. The reset button for the main AC contactor overloads and the coolant pump switch are located there. The coolant pump switch is a small rotary/drum switch.

By the way, the big box on the back with the knob on it is the speed control for the reverse direction. It works with the ELSR (Electric LeadScrew Reverse) system. That's a very rare option for an MG machine. The box has some extra relays inside to switch between the rheostats in the box and the usual speed control rheostats located in the compartment with the spindle motor.

Cal

Thanks Cal, I found both controls, looked like square bolt heads all painted over. Both moved when I played with them...

A few more questions on this lathe..

I have found and opened up all the electrical compartment and from reading the old threads have figured out what needs to be done to convert the lathe back to 220 from 440. When I looked at the motor I found that it was wired correctly for 440, that is what they were running it on at the shop where it was purchased.



I then went looking for the coil and was surprised to see it was rated for 220 already. I'm also betting that they ran the machine with the 220 heaters also and the machine was originally set up for 220 and no one messed with the coil, heaters or transformer.





I'm wondering what effect running the machine on 440 had on the coil which is clearly marked for 220. The coil does not look like it overheated.

I think that after I switch the 9 wires to the right configuration and move the contactor wiring for RPC operation I should be ok to test it out on 220. Am I missing anything?



What is this transformer and was it original to the machine? There are some wires exiting the back of the transformer going into the casting and up from the box location.. Haven't had time to trace them out yet. There is also what looks to be a cut off cord entering the transformer from the outside of the casting ???

Someone has also replaced the start switch on the front of the machine with another pushbutton. They drilled new screw mounting holes in the plate, the old ones are visible. This switch does not have a light bulb and there are no loose wires in that compartment that look to be the supply from the little 6 volt transformer. What would be a suitable replacement lighted switch?