10EE garage find: - Page 9
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 789
Results 161 to 170 of 170
  1. #161
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    95
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    78
    Likes (Received)
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    Yes, round-dials have essentially the same reservoir in the top of the apron. But the metering unit (or pressure relief valve, if that's what it is) is located on the end of the apron, rather than in the reservoir itself.

    Here's a post that shows round-dial's reservoir and the T on the apron that feeds the reservoir and the saddle manifold: Note that the lines that feed the apron and cross-feed clutches are either damaged or missing.

    Here's additional discussion on the subject from later in the same thread:
    I've asked rakort to post photos of his finished repair of the clutch oil lines.

    Cal
    Great thread Cal, thanks.

  2. #162
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    234
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    62
    Likes (Received)
    41

    Default

    So some pixs of my relatively recent efforts on the apron lube system. Hopefully they will be useful.

    Not mine but shows the two or more lube lines out of the reservoir.

    2017-02-18-20.10.07.jpg

    here is mine that needs a missing lube line added.

    img_20180414_223909784.jpg

    here is mine during disassembly

    img_20180328_210532999.jpg

    here is mine showing the "tee" with the metering unit at the tee. I understand some have the metering unit screwed into the top of the reservoir but that must have varied as the years went on.

    img_20180325_214658177.jpg

    Here is the above mentioned tee and metering unit

    img_20180414_233031855.jpg

  3. Likes Cal Haines liked this post
  4. #163
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Arizona
    Posts
    3,432
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    709
    Likes (Received)
    426

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    ...

    here is mine showing the "tee" with the metering unit at the tee. I understand some have the metering unit screwed into the top of the reservoir but that must have varied as the years went on.

    img_20180325_214658177.jpg

    Here is the above mentioned tee and metering unit

    img_20180414_233031855.jpg
    Square-dial 10EEs have the apron metering unit screwed into the reservoir, round-dials have it located as in your photo.

    That's definitely a metering unit. It doesn't appear that Bijur makes a pressure relief valve in that sort of package.

    According to this post, the "RJB" code was changed to "FJB" as some point. The '3' is the fastest of the standard metering units, which run from '00' (medium slow) to '3' (fast). Each time the number increases, the flow doubles, so a 3 lets through 16 times the amount of oil that a 0 does.
    Just for comparison, McMaster-Carr also carries the metering units: McMaster-Carr

    Cal

  5. #164
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    234
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    62
    Likes (Received)
    41

    Default

    kind of makes sense.....with the high flow #3 which feeds 3 or 4 lube points in the apron. The other branch then goes to the saddle which has ~4 #1 metering units to lube all that up.

  6. #165
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    24,168
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    7493

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    kind of makes sense.....with the high flow #3 which feeds 3 or 4 lube points in the apron. The other branch then goes to the saddle which has ~4 #1 metering units to lube all that up.
    You have been "adding value" for a while in-thread now. Even on the bits we've seen before, the recap AND a view from yet another angle - whyso angle as well as photo-so - angle - is useful. Thanks for that!

    The bad news? Went to rate the thread "Excellent" and was denied the privilege.

    Getting old!

    PM had to remind me that I had already done that, and may not vote TWICE!

    Oh well. Not as if it was air-miles or a free second helping of steak or ice-cream, yah?

    Just Deal With That!


  7. Likes Zap921 liked this post
  8. #166
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Arizona
    Posts
    3,432
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    709
    Likes (Received)
    426

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    ...

    Not mine but shows the two or more lube lines out of the reservoir.

    2017-02-18-20.10.07.jpg
    ...
    Just for the record, that photo comes from this post: Honest hon, the 10EE just followed me home
    It's a 1990 square-dial, s/n 53870.

    I've looked high and low and can't find a photo of a round-dial apron with both clutch oil lines in place. Both lines are in place on my machine, but I don't have a photo to prove it.

    Cal

  9. #167
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    95
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    78
    Likes (Received)
    9

    Default

    Thanks guys! To me it's no wonder that the worm / worm gear get no love with that port being at the top of the sump and feeding three other lines, one of which (half nuts) is at the bottom of the sump. I remember reading early on, I think from Cal, that it would be no surprise when I took my apron apart if worm sump was dry and full of swarf & gunk. It was. Need more oil to that worm assembly and thrust bearings. I'll fill the sump with Vactra before I close it up, it will at least leak out to the bottom of the feed rod / bushings but there will be some in there for a while.

    On a side note, I must have six different tabs open on two computers at any given time with PM open to different threads covering all kinds of topics. Great site and really appreciate all the help on my recovering 10ee.

  10. #168
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Peralta, NM USA
    Posts
    5,561
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    46
    Likes (Received)
    409

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zap921 View Post
    Thanks guys! To me it's no wonder that the worm / worm gear get no love with that port being at the top of the sump and feeding three other lines, one of which (half nuts) is at the bottom of the sump. I remember reading early on, I think from Cal, that it would be no surprise when I took my apron apart if worm sump was dry and full of swarf & gunk. It was. Need more oil to that worm assembly and thrust bearings. I'll fill the sump with Vactra before I close it up, it will at least leak out to the bottom of the feed rod / bushings but there will be some in there for a while.
    Don't forget to put some wicking in that top apron sump - I think Monarch used traditional cotton waste but clean cotton string will work as well.

  11. Likes Zap921 liked this post
  12. #169
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    24,168
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    7493

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    Don't forget to put some wicking in that top apron sump - I think Monarch used traditional cotton waste but clean cotton string will work as well.
    Dacron poly yarn might work even better. Fewer bugs that eat off it, and there be whole tribes and nations of bugs that thrive in hydrocarbon fluids. Ask any Diesel mechanic.

    'nam, the official-issue "jungle fatigues" didn't rot. The man inside them DID.

    I used-up over three dozen "old skewl" cotton fatigues in 12 months that damned-well DID rot. But also avoided all rashes, fungous infections and other skin diseases.

    This puppy, you want it the other way 'round. Durable packing.

    Whatever ELSE they are susceptible to, 10EE don't usually get crotch-rot.

    Just something that LOOKS suspiciously like it!

    Don't SNIFF a 10EE apron. Kinky enough to just photograph it in all its grubby glory.

  13. Likes Zap921 liked this post
  14. #170
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    95
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    78
    Likes (Received)
    9

    Default

    Yep, mine looked like it had the original blobs of whatever material is was still in there. Still clean but discolored. And no I didn't sniff it..... ha!


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
2