10EE increased RPM
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    Default 10EE increased RPM

    I donít know why my thread closed but I will try to get all relevant information here. The AC drive is a 300 min 1750 max RPM but it is only 1 HP. It is a General Electric polydyne variable AC drive. No digital readout of any info. The pulleys are stock from original machine and the original gearbox is attached. The top RPM on the tach is 2500. Not sure what other information is needed but please let me know what I can do to increase the rpm

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    For those who didnít see first thread this post is a continuation of that one. So I also have another round dial machine that I havenít gotten into. Everything below the bed looks original. All electrical looks to be what came from the factory. I need to find out if itís wired 240 or 480 and go from there. I have a 7.5 HP 240V VFD that I can try to power it up with but I am unsure if itís wired 240. I actually tried hooking it up and got nothing when I pushed the green button. The first machine is mounted on a angle iron frame so it is missing everything below bed level. I would like to install the first one onto the stand and have all original electrical components but first want to make sure they are not dead. In the meantime, I would like to make parts with the first lathe. At top speed, just a guess it is running in the 500-750 range. But with only 1 HP what options do I have? Forgive my ignorance but how do I tell how many pole motor I have?

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    Quote
    Forgive my ignorance but how do I tell how many pole motor I have ?

    You can tell by counting how many brushes it has.

    There may be a schematic on the motor tag showing wiring for each voltage. You will then check the wiring by the numbered wires at the motor to verify how its wired.
    The rest of what your asking you will need the more experienced members. Sounds like a serious project


    Last edited by Cal Haines; 07-31-2020 at 09:24 PM. Reason: fix font color

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    There is a schematic showing wiring options. There are 9 poles on it. Numbers 1-9 for 240 123 connected and 4-7 , 5-8, 6-9 connected. Does this mean I have a 9 pole motor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourierseries View Post
    There is a schematic showing wiring options. There are 9 poles on it. Numbers 1-9 for 240 123 connected and 4-7 , 5-8, 6-9 connected. Does this mean I have a 9 pole motor?
    Nope you have a AC motor you can tell by the rated RPM you say it is 1750 that is a 4 pole motor if it was 2 pole it would be in the 3600 RPM range if it was a 6 pole motor (rare) it would be in the 900 RPM range that is at 60 HZ. You have what is called a nine wire motor which means it can be wired for 2 voltages. On a DC motor you can tell by the number of brushes.

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    You have 3 ways to increase RPM one is to get a better AC drive that can be set to a higher HZ and has a readout, 2 get a 2 pole motor, 3 change the ratio of the pulleys.
    With only one horse motor your machining will be limited to lite cuts.

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    THANK YOU ..for providing the desperately NEEDED information someone blocked from us .... by closing your original thread before you could inform us.

    Go figure...

    - per prior, in this thread:

    -- Confirming, yes, you have a 4-Pole AC motor with dual-voltage capability.

    -- The most important single reason you are not likely to get any USEFUL higher speed is that ONE HP is just not enough.

    IF/AS/WHEN you try to raise the RPM with pulley changes? It is not likely you would have enough useful torque left to do much more that sand and polish stuff.

    "More information" would be decent photos for a start. Ones that show "how much" you do have above that shop-fab frame. it is REALLY unusual for a 10EE to NOT have its OEM cast bed under it.

    This rig needs a more powerful motor more than any other single item.

    It may or may not be the best use of your time to mess with that, just now..

    .. because.. the BEST use of the "amputee" 10EE MIGHT be as a parts donor for....

    Your "other" 10EE. The round-dial that seems to still be "all there".

    That one has better prospects.

    As far as we know so far, there is nothing unusual about THAT 10EE. The PM community can assist you to get it back to normal running.

    It should have a NEW thread of its own, totally separate from this one.

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    I agree that itís a parts donor. Especially since on the ďwholeĒ one I have isnít whole. The gearbox was taken apart and I have exchanged the tach from this one to the butchered one on stand. So everything is good above bed on one with no base and everything is whole on other one below bed. So together I have one good machine. This of course depends on that everything in the base can be put to working order. The only thing that is missing on both machines is the speed control shaft that is part of the back gear open gear knob. On the butchered machine the simply retained the knob by direct connection to gearbox on motor. On other machine, the rod and sprocket are missing and the chain is just dangling there on rheostat. I can order new from factory for 187.00 for shaft and 86.00 for sprocket. I think I still have the knob that goes on shaft. I will start new thread for the ďwhole machineĒ but I would like to know what I can do with butchered machine while I figure out if the guts on whole one are any good. I suppose if they arenít I can still get a better drive and put everything in the base I do have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourierseries View Post
    I agree that it’s a parts donor. Especially since on the “whole” one I have isn’t whole. The gearbox was taken apart and I have exchanged the tach from this one to the butchered one on stand. So everything is good above bed on one with no base and everything is whole on other one below bed. So together I have one good machine. This of course depends on that everything in the base can be put to working order. The only thing that is missing on both machines is the speed control shaft that is part of the back gear open gear knob. On the butchered machine the simply retained the knob by direct connection to gearbox on motor. On other machine, the rod and sprocket are missing and the chain is just dangling there on rheostat. I can order new from factory for 187.00 for shaft and 86.00 for sprocket. I think I still have the knob that goes on shaft. I will start new thread for the “whole machine” but I would like to know what I can do with butchered machine while I figure out if the guts on whole one are any good. I suppose if they aren’t I can still get a better drive and put everything in the base I do have.
    I may have some of those round-dial parts. Got an empty apron, same again surfacing/threading gearbox, and "SOME" gears, used leadscrew, for example.

    I KNOW I have already onpassed the DC panel, MY MG, crated another MG, onpassed a 3 HP small frame (WiaD era) motor and TWO sets of rheostats, one with shaft and knob and "owe" a coolant pump "due out"..

    Even so.. lots more of us have odds and sods.

    Dig into the "pair", do an assessment.

    Post a list of needfuls.

    We would still neeed photos to advise on what you can do "in the meanwhile" with the "upper". Having it running to make bushings and such whilst you fix the other one could be right handy.

    Photos. Click on my login handle, choose "Send email to" AND NOT "PM-PM" me if posting photos is a problem. We can get you started.

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    I donít know how to post photos. Been looking and I canít find out how.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourierseries View Post
    I don’t know how to post photos. Been looking and I can’t find out how.
    There are MANY threads that tell "how".

    Even so, GOOD ones are often too large as file sizes. PM won't take those big files. A PM EMAIL wont take photos at all.

    But if you email me through that, then we can exchange "normal" email that CAN take photos as attachments .... where PM cannot.

    or - go direct:

    [email protected]

    Our email system CAN take large photo files as attachments, "no sweat".

    Then I can take a screen shot at LOWER resolution and file size and post it/them right here, this thread, for all of us to see.

    And THEN we all get a better idea of what you are faced with trying to make better use of.

    Help - here in this forum - is almost always a "many hands" team effort.

    One guy has one or two parts, some other guy has some other part.. and lots of them cheap ...or even free.

    Because others who have gone before have helped every single one of US already.

    We get NOISY. We ARGUE.

    But nobody gets SCREWED.

    Not here, they do not!



    "PS:" I reject ALL "friends" requests. Just did your one.

    Nothing "personal".

    I'm rude. VERY!

    I just like to have a free hand in case I feel the need to be REALLY rude ....and risk making enemies ... without feeling GUILTY about that!

    Lazy, Iyam...


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    Maybe add, and a genuine son-of-a-beatch . . . but of the good type to know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbeech View Post
    Maybe add, and a genuine son-of-a-beatch . . . but of the good type to know.
    LOL! Welllll. "first child" Two younger siblings as yah had responsibility for, 1950 to .. sitting now still-yet a Fiduciary. Executor of our late Mum's Estate?

    That IS a stretch to say yah had to have thick skin for 70 straight years so..

    How about:"

    "Any grinding wheel would be right useless if it were NOT abrasive, would it not?"

    Is is wot I is. Bit late to change?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourierseries View Post
    I donít know why my thread closed but I will try to get all relevant information here. ...
    I closed the thread because it had gotten too far into the weeds. It had nothing to do with anything you did. If you or anyone else have any questions or concerns about that, please feel free to contact me via personal message or e-mail.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fourierseries View Post
    ... The AC drive is a 300 min 1750 max RPM but it is only 1 HP. It is a General Electric polydyne variable AC drive. No digital readout of any info. The pulleys are stock from original machine and the original gearbox is attached. The top RPM on the tach is 2500. Not sure what other information is needed but please let me know what I can do to increase the rpm
    The original DC motor on that machine was probably a 3HP DC motor with a top speed of 2400 RPM. With a 1750 RPM motor about the best you can expect to do with the original drive pulleys is about 1800 RPM. A 1 HP motor may or may not be sufficient for your needs, it depends on what you want to do with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fourierseries View Post
    For those who didnít see first thread this post is a continuation of that one.
    Here's a link the the previous thread:
    Quote Originally Posted by Fourierseries View Post
    So I also have another round dial machine that I havenít gotten into. Everything below the bed looks original. All electrical looks to be what came from the factory. I need to find out if itís wired 240 or 480 and go from there. I have a 7.5 HP 240V VFD that I can try to power it up with but I am unsure if itís wired 240. I actually tried hooking it up and got nothing when I pushed the green button. ...
    Here's a link to a thread that will help you figure out how
    Cal
    ---


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