10EE with inop speed control for sale (ebay)
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  1. #1
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    Default 10EE with inop speed control for sale (ebay)

    I'm browsing ebay, and found a 10EE not too terribly far away which ... from ebay pictures looks to be recently repainted (but who knows, of course). The listing says "some electrical work needed", and the seller further described that as "The electric speed control is not working. The lathe goes straight to high speed."

    If I were shopping for a 10EE, would this even be worth considering? Monarch 10EE Vintage Precision 10" x 20" ToolRoom Lathe | eBay

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    I asked, too. It could be as simple as a broken chain between the knob and rheostat/pot. Someone here with first-hand knowledge may weigh in with other possibilities. If you're close you can go find out.

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    That is a lot of money for a round dial with electrical problems. It does come with a three jaw chuck and collet attachment, although you can't tell if it has the collet sleeve in the spindle. It also comes with a quick change tool post. I would make the decision on wear.

    Bill

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    Does it bother anyone else that it seems to be recently repainted?

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    Having bought a what turned out to be a disappointing machine, I can offer a bit of advice. Take your test indicator, put it on the spindle, and make sure the spindle bearings are completely smooth- otherwise new bearings minimum $1300. Take a known D1-3 device with you and check if the spindle nose is loose - otherwise spindle regrind from Monarch - $1200.

    The electrical issue, part of the fun. If the MG set doesn't work, go to the Parker setup that Thermite developed, works quite well - on the order of $600.

    Assume the 3 jaw chuck is worn out. New Bison $700. If Aloris is damaged, cost of new Aloris - $300.

    If the spindle bearings are good and D1-3 is acceptable, then if the ways are decent, $3000 to $3500 reasonable price. IMO...

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    I just noticed, this is one of the few round dials with the mechanical threading kickout.

    John

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    I asked:

    "Have you had the cover off to see if the chain still connects the speed control knob and the large rheostat? Of course, if the knob just spins that would be a pretty good indication that the rheostat isn't connected and limiting the travel."

    He replied:

    "Yes, it’s the rheostat. I have had all the covers off"

    Make of it what you will.

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    check for bed wear. If the bed is worn it is not worth squat, because machines without significant wear are available all day.

    the MG is pretty reliable, so I would stick with that if it is not really gonzo

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    Interesting looking round-dial 10EE with some nice features, definitely worth a look if you're in the area. Serial number 24841, built 1-1944.

    Here's some of the features:

    • Monarch's lever operated collet closer. Hopefully the collet nose is still with the machine.
    • ELSR (Electric Leadscrew Reverse), which really just stops the spindle. Per usual, parts of the ELSR, including the stops, are missing. These don't seem to have been a very useful option.
    • Rapid reverse option. This is a very rare feature on a round-dial. If working, the knob on the box in the back controls the spindle speed in reverse, so that you can rapidly back the carriage up with the half-nuts closed.
    • Appears to have the accumulating cross-feed dial.
    • Extended top-slide with dovetail behind tool post.


    There's no taper attachment. The indicator stop bar has been replaced. D-minus grade for the paint job.

    Cal

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    Interesting looking round-dial 10EE with some nice features, definitely worth a look if you're in the area. Serial number 24841, built 1-1944.
    Yea, I'm only a few states away. That's a state or two too far for today... Thanks all.

    Briney Eye - Good luck! Let us know if you pick it up

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    I picked up a 1941 10EE at auction that came with the steady rest and follower rest for $1600. My issue is the other way around, I only have base speeds.
    If that lathe is going full speed, I wonder if the field generator is working?

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by WJH308 View Post
    I picked up a 1941 10EE at auction that came with the steady rest and follower rest for $1600. My issue is the other way around, I only have base speeds.
    If that lathe is going full speed, I wonder if the field generator is working?

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    If the exciter were dead, the relays in the DC control panel wouldn't work.

    Cal

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    Quote Originally Posted by WJH308 View Post
    I picked up a 1941 10EE at auction that came with the steady rest and follower rest for $1600. My issue is the other way around, I only have base speeds.
    If that lathe is going full speed, I wonder if the field generator is working?

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    field weakening is not working, mine does this, probably dicey relay as mine comes and goes

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    Quote Originally Posted by gustafson View Post
    field weakening is not working, mine does this, probably dicey relay as mine comes and goes
    When I get home, and if that hurricane decides to miss FL, I plan on writing a full post about it. Many of the relays on it have been replaced with solid state affairs, and some one felt a need to bolt a variac to the front of the machine. Everyone has told me that this is the forum to ask. Manually turning the variac does nothing, even has a motor attached to it? Hoping if I remove all that stuff in the front and use the schematic I have from Monarch, it'll work fine, keeping the solid state relays.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by gustafson View Post
    field weakening is not working, mine does this, probably dicey relay as mine comes and goes
    I don't know what type of machine you have, but this was originally a motor/generator drive machine. (No way to tell what sort of drive it may have now.) But there's no relay on a normal motor/generator machine that can go bad and cause this problem. For it to go to full speed, the motor must be running with maximum field weakening (or no field at all). This particular machine has the very rare fast reverse option, which introduces a second pair of rheostats into the mix. We need more information.

    Cal

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    Quote Originally Posted by adamgoldberg View Post
    Does it bother anyone else that it seems to be recently repainted?
    Agreed, looks like a tarted up mess by a sharpster. Lots of pretty pictures but no definitive shots of high wear areas.

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    My 10ee had the most dreadful paintwork but the machine itself was in fine condition despite of it. No-one bid on it except me because of the apparent state. Fresh paint would have improved the sale chances without 'hiding' any problems that weren't there.

    That said, the ways do look a bit war-worn from what little you can discern, plus who pays extra for the ELSR and rapid reverse if they are not intending to work the machine hard doing a lot of threading?

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    If it's not worn beyond what the buyer requires, and the features are basically intact, the drive isn't a big deal... the worst case scenariou would involve yanking the complete drive system and slipping in a 3ph motor, belt drive, and a VFD... which is what I did after my MG reached the apex.

    What's the flat area atop the upper belt cover for? It's too small for my coffee cup...10ee-flat.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 10ee-flat-2.jpg  

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveKamp View Post
    What's the flat area atop the upper belt cover for? It's too small for my coffee cup...
    10ee-flat.jpg
    I don't know, but that's the way the three-piece end covers for the machines with factory installed collet closers are set up. Mine has it as well.

    Cal


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