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10ee long bed elsr barn find... now what?

Wilde Racing

Plastic
Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Location
Kansas
This is my second 10ee. The first had a ton of bed wear and I wanted elsr. I found a super cheap listing for a 30" and could not pass it up. But boy is it in rough shape. All electronics are gone other than the switches in the elsr knob. Motor and gear box is gone. A number of handles are missing or broken, but the ways look good. And the tapper attachment is there err at least most of it??? So do I part what's left out? Try to find the pieces and re assemble? Maybe with a solid state conversion? Or do I servo drive it? I got to say I'm most interested in the servo.... thoughts???

20210515_125659.jpg20210515_122914.jpg
 
Look around there and you might find more parts, doors, cover or drive parts.
If you use the parts you might sell them.
Put a 7 1/2 hp min or better yet a 10hp black max and a VFD.
Do a search for more info.

Hal

Did you buy the car also? Is it a charger?
 
A servo drive will be vastly better than the original or any other option.

I did the same on my 1.5 kW lathe to excellent success.
With a 2.5 kW cont. ac servo drive.
 
This is my second 10ee. The first had a ton of bed wear and I wanted elsr. I found a super cheap listing for a 30" and could not pass it up. But boy is it in rough shape. All electronics are gone other than the switches in the elsr knob. Motor and gear box is gone. A number of handles are missing or broken, but the ways look good. And the tapper attachment is there err at least most of it??? So do I part what's left out? Try to find the pieces and re assemble? Maybe with a solid state conversion? Or do I servo drive it? I got to say I'm most interested in the servo.... thoughts???

View attachment 321129View attachment 321130

First you make sure the ways are good. If so then you buy a donor machine with worn ways and take what you need and sell off the rest. Buying parts piece by piece takes forever and costs a ton. I would definitely go solid servo.
 
Look around there and you might find more parts, doors, cover or drive parts.
If you use the parts you might sell them.
Put a 7 1/2 hp min or better yet a 10hp black max and a VFD.
Do a search for more info.

Hal

Did you buy the car also? Is it a charger?

The charger is a 69 and a project that I will never finish....

A servo drive will be vastly better than the original or any other option.

I did the same on my 1.5 kW lathe to excellent success.
With a 2.5 kW cont. ac servo drive.

I really like this idea, I'm just unsure of the servo amp and wiring.

How could something so valuable end up so trashed?...Phil

It was in an old leaky warehouse and hadn't seen a hand touch it in years. It looks like it was stripped years ago.

I know what to do with it.... Drive it on over to my place, and I'll give her some lovin.

I'd love to drive it to someone's house, let someone paint it and get it working and them I can come pick it back up :)
 
I've been trying to find information on the servo. No luck. I'm guessing I'm going to have to built the setup myself. I was hoping for some sort of "kit".
 
Well I started doing a bit more cleaning, sadly the ways are worse near the tailstock. Lots of rust and pitting. I'm not sure it could be saved. For how much I have into this I wouldn't mind spending some money to save it. Any recommendations for someone around Kansas that can do some grinding if saving is even an option? Sad the think I might throw away a 30".....

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Cash Masters is someone you could use for the bed re-grinding. He is based in Milwaukee.
Keith Rucker uses him exclusively for all kinds of re0grinding jobs and had his Monarch 60 bed re-ground there.

Here is the "estimate" based on the video I sent him to do my 10EE so you can get a rough Idea of the cost.


To grind the bed, you are looking at approx. $1200

To re-scrape the saddle, this means we would need the spindle to align it, you are looking at least $5,000 for this part of the process. Most guys like to handle this on their own as you can machine the saddle with a Bridgeport and scrape yourself.



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I'd love to drive it to someone's house, let someone paint it and get it working and them I can come pick it back up :)[/QUOTE]


Sounds good to me.... Will get it done ASAP, and you can retrieve it in say... 10 Years. Don
 
Thermite- I hear ya on the drive. I guess my real question is the wiring side of a serov and servo drive. I have experience with converting an old dynapath system to mach and I ASSUME you would want to find a servo driver that like volcity mode, then you just need 10v and your good. Normally a pc and power supply is handling all of that......

Cash Masters is someone you could use for the bed re-grinding. He is based in Milwaukee.
Keith Rucker uses him exclusively for all kinds of re0grinding jobs and had his Monarch 60 bed re-ground there.

Here is the "estimate" based on the video I sent him to do my 10EE so you can get a rough Idea of the cost.


To grind the bed, you are looking at approx. $1200

To re-scrape the saddle, this means we would need the spindle to align it, you are looking at least $5,000 for this part of the process. Most guys like to handle this on their own as you can machine the saddle with a Bridgeport and scrape yourself.



[email protected]

I'll give him a call. I would really like to know my options.

My 2 cents. Clean up that rusted spot with navel jelly
Loctite(R) Naval Jelly(R) Rust Dissolver and then see if it really effects the cutting that much. Big bucks to fix, may be better left alone.


For the new drive, many solutions. FWIW, I just re did my second to 10EE with a VFD rated 10 hp motor and VFD. It has worked out extremely well. And very inexpensive with ebay motor.
Monarch 10EE rebuild 10Hp VFD no backgear | The Hobby-Machinist

PS, GREAT FIND.

Thanks for the link. I ordered the rust desolvent so we'll see how bad it is.. yea, I think I was pretty luck to find it. I also keep an eye out for any of the big three.... Bought it sight unseen with just two bad pictures. Pretty sure I could make all my money back by just selling the tapper attachment.

Sounds good to me.... Will get it done ASAP, and you can retrieve it in say... 10 Years. Don

Oh my.. a bidding war is afoot, then?

I'll raise you:

Dee Cee powered to OEM performance or better, and returned in only 9 years!

:D


Let's get that bidding down to 2 years! :D
 
A servo drive will be vastly better than the original or any other option.

I did the same on my 1.5 kW lathe to excellent success.
With a 2.5 kW cont. ac servo drive.

Hanermo,

Was your conversion on a Monarch 10ee? Was it documented in the forum? If not, can you start a thread and provide a description of the conversion.

thanks,

Jdub
 
If I were to servo...

If I were to yank the VFD conversion from my '42 round-dial, and put in a servo...

I'd probably look closest into a Teknic ClearPath setup, and just write an ARDUINO program to step-direction control it. What they've done, is integrated the servomotor, encoder and driver electronics into one complete unit... you give it power input, and a step-direction command, and it just does it.

I'm pretty certain they've got units that'll be in the power-aplenty range for a spindle motor.

With an arduino controlling the step-dir, one could put a second servo drive on an auxiliary leadscrew drive, to cut whatever threads one wants (effectively, you'd be inch-metric-oddball-whatever).

With this, if you ever considered any CNC type futures, you'd already have a good start.
 
Sounds like a major project, but hard not to save a 30 incher if you can. Looking forward to the before and after!!

Jeff in long beach.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 
I'd just live with the rust pits especially if near the tailstock end.

95% of all general purpose work is going to be done as close as feasibly possible to chucks or collets.

It might not ever be a gleaming show queen but make a large amount of good parts, you still can. As long as there's "bearing" across those pitted spots its going to work great...less so if there's a lot of running back and forth across them.
 








 
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