10EE Motor Generator starting problems - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 25 of 25
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Louisiana
    Posts
    510
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    258
    Likes (Received)
    97

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl_T View Post
    OK, this whole thing is likely to just go south, but I will try a bit more.

    So, what the heck is an exciter - never heard of it. I know some have three wires, some have two wires. is it tiny like a resistor?? maybe inside another panel?? Now I am somehow supposed to find these wires and disconnect them. Got no wire numbers, no prints.

    Everybody is ignorant on some subjects and expert on others. The instructions Cal wrote up assumes the individual has a basic understanding of how a 10EE drive works. I have NO CLUE.

    Now I wrote the machine language code behind two line G76 for lathes. No way would i expect someone here to know how to diagnose a problem with this.

    Anyway, i would appreciate help, but telling somebody how to fix a problem at a distance when the guy is ignorant is difficult at best.
    The exciter is located on the top of the motor-generator driven by a belt it is not small it is a dc generator to generate the field voltage for the main motor and for the relays around 115 VDC.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    452
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    186
    Likes (Received)
    104

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by labeeman View Post
    The exciter is located on the top of the motor-generator driven by a belt it is not small it is a dc generator to generate the field voltage for the main motor and for the relays around 115 VDC.
    yup the "exciter" is the generator that is belt driven ontop of the main motor generator. It provides all the control voltage for all the relays switches and what not including the field voltage as labee said. That is why it is so important to understand if this is working and get it working if it isn't. The output of the exciter is available to measure on the terminals of E1 and E2 as Cal or someone mentioned.

  3. Likes labeeman liked this post
  4. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Utah
    Posts
    1,123
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2750
    Likes (Received)
    479

    Default

    DON’T give up. I’m electrically dumb, but my 10EE’s work thanks to listening & studying here. My MG drive was acting exactly like yours. Search all posts on 10EE exciters. It is WELL WORTH IT. And you will likely be surprised when you find the culprit. As in, NOT a major failure.
    I have been in the “just get a VFD & 10HP motor” panic mode PLENTY of times. I am SOOOOOO GLAD I listened and learned here instead.
    You can do it!

  5. Likes rakort, labeeman liked this post
  6. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Iowa
    Posts
    3,330
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    114
    Likes (Received)
    500

    Default

    An easy way to recover a 'lost residual magnetism' circumstance WITHOUT flashing a field:

    Take a strong magnet, put it in a plastic bag, and stick it to the side of the generator as it's running. It will place a magnetic field in the generator frame, frequently it'll be strong enough to wake up a sleeping generator.

  7. Likes Karl_T, TheOldCar liked this post
  8. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    19,707
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    11847

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl_T View Post
    Yep, finding electrical help on a 10EE is impossible in my location. That is why I ripped the DC drive out on my other 10EE. On the old one, the DC drive looked BAD.

    On this one all the components look to be clean and in nice condition, especially the DC motor and backgear. Does this motor and drive have any significant value?

    Looks like I am back to plan A - install 10hp 8 pole 3 phase motor and VFD drive - no backgear.
    10EE drive VFD no backgear

    Found the motor for $1500
    10 hp electric motor 284t 3 phase 900 rpm severe duty PE284T-10-8C 192999004463 | eBay

    VFD will be about $500. there will be other bits and pieces that will likely be another $500.


    I spent several hours today looking for an all new DC drive - no joy. I can see this DC motor has been rebuilt. if a drop in single phase DC drive is made, I'd look at that route.

    Got plenty of time to think before acting here, this is not a rush job.
    "Drop-in" is for artificial coffee, tea bags, and laser printer toner kits.

    Classical machinery is another animal.

    If what you have is as clean as you say, you can PROBABLY get it running for a few hours study time and as little as ZERO cash spend. Worst-case is seldom more than brushes and bearings, a broken wire, resistor or few, a relay only now and then ... and STILL rudely CHEAP for a(ny) MG.

    BEST of all? Once put back to rights? An MG can run a VERY long time before it again needs brushes.

    Total cost can be far less than your estimate for the VFD's motor alone .. even if exciter or generator were to need a rewind. Which is RARE. Very.

    Electrical guru "at present" or not?

    You learnt to drive a motor car and use machine tools and a whole lot more you weren't born knowing. We all have.

    It ain't as if you have to build the whole of electronics technology from scratch.

    An MG is "blacksmith grade simple", PM community has seen a lot and walked MANY folks through the needful steps.

    Already.

    You can DO this. It's even faster and less total work as well as cheaper.

    A VFD downgrade is NOT "simple drop in." It is only a different KIND of work and spend that makes one THINK it is.

    Annnnnd if you insist on it? You can still downgrade it to a VFD later.

    NB: I rather SUSPECT that the proven industrial-grade VFD the factory utilizes, present-day 10EE, costs a LOT more than "$500". There will be sound reasons for that. Plenty of them.

    Why not save the MONEY s well as the time.. to buy other stuff.. and have more time to use it?


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •