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Testing the DC spindle motor

Jdub63

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 10, 2020
When I purchased my 10EE it was gutted of all the motor control/drive. However the 3HP DC motor and gearbox was still installed. I'm trying to decide a way forward, new drive system, AC motor with VFD, or Servo and drive. But first I would like to insure the motor will at least turn over.

Based on my search, motor testing is getting buried in threads where someone is trying to get the 10ee running for the first time. I would like this thread to focus on a quick check out of the motor.

Here's my available resources; 1- 12 volt car battery, 1-6 volt car battery (VW guy)and a multimeter.

Can I simply hook up the 12 volt battery to the armature leads and make it spin, or do the field leads need power too, would the 6v be enough?

Please keep me straight and tell me how you perform an operational check on the motor.

Here's my motor's data plate

IMG_0449.jpg

jdub
 
Oh boy, dont do anything, first read about dc motors, you MUST have the field powered, and 12 volts is not enough, at least 60 volts, if you have a dc welder that would work, once the field is powered, 12 volts to the arm would make it spin, 24 volts would be better...Phil
 
Thanks for the quick inputs.

So, given my current resources. I can connect my two batteries in series to both the field and armature in parallel(A1,F1 and A2,F2)while S1 and S2 are taped together. This should produce enough voltage to turn the motor albeit very slowly. (Caution)During this time, there will be inductive voltage generated and will spike when disconnecting the leads from the battery. Based on the low voltage used the motor should not "run away".

Is this a accurate summary?
 
Yes, low Voltage has several safety advantages.

Yes you are playing with a spark-gap transmitter or low-tension magneto class creature as can trade shorter time for higher Voltage.

No, no need to tape S1,S2 "together".

Just drop a loose wire-nut over EACH and tape it on rather than munging-up the wire by screwing it on. So nothing can accidentally contact them.

Look at the data plate. What it does is put S(eries) 1 & 2 INTO series with the Armature DIRECTIONALLY. Like a buck/boost transformer works.

So as to "aid" torque.

As load increases, Armature current flow increases, the aiding electromagnetic Field gets stronger automagically to compensate.

But only in ONE direction.

In a 10EE, the motor must be reversible.

One either:

Provides a means of switching between either mode on that data plate when changing motor direction.

Accepts that increasing load will have the drag-down effect actually MULTIPLIED to worsen the situation when running in reverse.

BFD, most 10EE don't usually see heavy loads in reverse unless ... one of we Old Timers are threading AWAY from a shoulder or similar "feature" so as never have had to have to give a s**t how fast we can stop the spindle. To us, "ELSR" is just an annoying nuisance chattered about by the less experienced.

OR... ties them OFF, ignored. When a "4Q" DC drive has more than enough ability to dynamically compensate for load with no such assistance.

And no. It will not "run away". That isn't even a huge risk to begin with on a SHUNT wound motor in general, let alone a Type T. There's the drag of the gearbox, the belts, the bearings, and enough inertia it takes a skosh of time.

The Field strength is the "fulcum" against which the lever of the Armature pries to gain traction. The rungs on a ladder vs a slick pole.

The surface of the pavement, grippy or wet-ice slick under the wheels.

The STEPS on a staircase rather than a wet steel ramp you can trot fast over barefoot and trying to NOT get pregnant ..

.. but not do as well while backpacking a straight-leg infantryman's heavy ammo, chow, and lethal toy loadout for a TAB (Tactical Advance to Battle AKA "ground pounding" and loaded to bring merciless pee).

Weaker the Field, lower the TORQUE!

French racing bicycle, roller blades, or a Nederlander speed-skating a canal of a winter vs a "Big Boy" compounded Mallet-system steam locomotive hauling a hundred-plus car train of coal.

It's the Series-wound AKA "AC/DC" electric motor where the field connection is internal that climbs for low Earth orbit if not sanely Engineered and handled. it has a different concept of "base RPM" altogether from a self-regulating, inherently slef-stabilizing shunt-wound motor.

OTOH, you do not even want to be within range when I'm destructive testing a 3 HP "large-frame" for squirrell-caging!

Just stay TF under 48 VDC until ready to go with a proper DC Drive setup, and fear not.

A SSD 50X used for Field power has an accessable "Fault" signal that can shut-down a mated SSD 514C-XX. Presence of Field first or absnece if lost can be used for "ENABLE" source o ntheArmature supply, not a lot of parts required.

A broken wire at the peckerhead or inside the motor, OTOH?

Shit happens.

BFD. 10EE are not run "lights out". Operator will be THERE.
A broken wire on a modular or works in a drawer on the field will shut them down.
 
Focus boys... this thread is just for the initial testing of the motor... we can talk systems safety and design in the next one :)

Thanks again for all your knowledge.

jdub
 
Based on my search, motor testing is getting buried in threads where someone is trying to get the 10ee running for the first time. I would like this thread to focus on a quick check out of the motor.


jdub

I'm just trying to make it easier on the next guy.
 
End result: I connected 12V+ to F1&A1 and 12V- to F2&A2, the motor turned at a slow speed. I'll probably change the bearings and brushes, but it seems like I have a functioning motor. Of course we'll know more once I can put the full voltage to it. But this is what I needed to this point.

Thanks again Thermite.

jdub
 








 
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