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  1. #101
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    I will definitely have to read into this process.

    Thank you for being patient with me as about all of this is way over my head but I am trying to understand it all

    So if I am understanding this correctly, I need to upgrade to a 5kva minimum transformer?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    I will definitely have to read into this process.

    Thank you for being patient with me as about all of this is way over my head but I am trying to understand it all

    So if I am understanding this correctly, I need to upgrade to a 5kva minimum transformer?
    There is "math" for it, and online calculators for "motor HP" to KVA.

    They calculate to a much LOWER figure, but....

    As a transformer also LIMITS how much power it can transfer without unduly overheating (or WORSE) and peak loads exist, the simpler rule is roughly double the KVA as HP to be served.

    That would be 6 KVA for a 3 HP 10EE, 10 KVA for a 5 HP one.

    Fortunately, a 10EE has very well-known characteristics by this late date and is proven to be one of the EASIER loads to serve, not the hardest.

    3 KVA is tad light because the large-frame 3 HP can be run at well over 4 HP, actual. The 5 HP motors were pushed a tad above nameplate, too - just not by as much. They did not HAVE to be.

    The 5HP is at the chosen higher "base" RPM to improve higher-RPM turning.

    Think better match to Carbide tooling RPM ranges than a 2500 RPM MG and more power up in the high RPM band as well. Carbides, again, but pushed harder yet.

    The 3 HP "small frame" got its 3 HP rating at a much higher "base" RPM than the large frame 3HP, so was actually a step DOWN in Torque so the WiaD had LESS power than the MG. 5 HP modular brought it back up, plus a bit more. Just not as MUCH more as 3 to 5 first appears. Torque of a 3 HP large-frame Reliance and a 5 HP GE-Kinamatic or Louis-Allis is actually very, very similar.

    "Base" RPM on the nameplate is where HP is listed. Torque has a fixed mathematical relationship. Ergo the RPM at which any HP figure is measured matters. By rather a LOT, actually.

    Bottom line is about 4.8 KVA minimum, 6.6 KVA is generous, 5 KVA works fine. and was OEM for the modular drive 5 HP motor era's "hollow state" transformer.

    Everettengr added a boost to his "modular" transformer and it worked OK for his 5 HP GE Kinamatic. ISTR it put him at around 6 KVA? It is in his thread somewhere.

    "In theory" he doesn't QUITE have full power and might better have utilized a 514C-32 (32 max amp) SSD drive.

    In actual practice he does have "enough" power off the 514C-16 (16 max Amp), even for an 18 or 20 "FLA" motor. "Thermally" a 514C-16 is a max 6 HP drive, after all. And that rating still has reserves. It is just fine where he and I both set our 514C-16 SSDs. The 16 A max current. Plus 150% overload permitted for 90 seconds (one minute and a half).

    With only 20" max across which to complete a cut, fewer than half that, most tasking, and perhaps but a 3 or 4 inch traverse more common?

    Even the heaviest of cuts just doesn't last a very long time. So nothing actually overheats. Note that large-frame Reliance motors full 80 years in service are still motating just fine whilst their DATAPLATE doesn't even rate them for "continuous duty".

    10EE has a SHORT traverse. 12-foot-plus bed lathe? Different story!

    So we actually see that sort of load either "very, very, rarely".. or maybe even "never".

    The 514C dissipates only around 55 to 75 Watts as waste heat even under sustained maximum load, so needs no cooling fans even when run HARD.

    Under real-word 10EE use the big finned heat-sink barely even gets warm. No fans as a VFD must have.

    An "idle" SSD consumes only about half of ONE watt, and idle it actually is for a lot of the time.

    An MG would be spinning its AC input motor and moving air through its two DC generators (main and "exciter") all the while the spindle was stopped at FAR higher power consumption (and acoustical noise..) than an idle SSD.

    Side notes?

    ISTR my bench rig is CAPABLE of around 8 KVA at full-gallop, but in most configurations testing at low or no load, never tripped a 15A 1-P breaker at a measured 246 VAC service. Final version was wired for 30A service, but only got a 20 A @ 240 VAC "QO" upstream breaker.

    That sustains a 20 X 246 = 4920 or 4.92 KVA and has always been enough.

    If not, the wire, Hubbell, SO cord, disconnect, etc. are already "there" for a 30 A breaker swap, so @ 30 X 246 = 7380.

    I could "do" that within "code'. but would rather avoid it...because..

    Resetting a tripped 20 A "QO' is free.

    Replacing my special "semiconductor" protection fuses (very FAST Blo,) is expensive!

    I'm a cheapskate, so 20 A is fine.

    Besides.. I have to ORDER those special fuse and I keep only one set spare. Big Box does not stock that type.

    Next is the division of labour. KVA, actually.

    Too small a transformer, you limit power and overheat the transformer.

    Too large and you increase the inrush load and waste power bill money on shaking Iron and Copper about. Also need more space inside the 10EE and pay higher shipping charges, etc.

    How do we calculate the KVA when building an array from more than one transformer to hit a target Voltage and power?

    Real-world example for my first one with the recycled fluorescent lighting transformer (It actually came out of a factory with a big, fat pushbutton added right into its wire leads cover because it was used to test the fixtures they manufactured!):

    240 -> 277 VAC (it was not enough!)
    240 -> 48 VAC (added. NOW it is.. but not in surplus)

    Total 325 VAC

    277/325 = .852 or 85% of the target 5 KVA = 4.26 KVA.
    - 5 KVA is a stock size. I used it.

    48/325 = .148 or 15% of the target 5 KVA = .738 KVA
    750 VA AKA .75 KVA exist. So do 1 KVA. I had a 1.5 KVA, so I used it.

    Two more transformers were added later for testing. I backed down to the added 16 VAC one for a nominal 341 VAC. Each time more players are added, the KVA share of each player drops, but.. no need to downsize what was already there.

    So with 277+48+16 annnnnd my actual utility mains @ 246 VAC? I ended up at around 349.5 VAC.

    Interpolate off the "Output Ratings" table in the SSD manual for "stock" US and European Voltages, wherein:

    @ 220-240 in, call it 230, one loses 50 Volts for 180 VDC out. KB-Penta says the same 230 VAC in, 180 VDC out.

    @ 380-415 in, call it 397.5, one loses around 80 Volts for 320 VDC out

    So at roughly 350 VAC in, I get around 275 VDC out and drop even that a skosh off the insertion loss of the big ripple-filter choke. Bt the choke is halping, not just limiting.

    Its smoothing effect, working in conjunction with the motor ITSELF is "integrating the area under the curve" and in the "current realm" rather than Voltage realm".

    Well.. that has pushed some energy off the peaks into filling the valleys and a smooth-enough and useful-happy lathe have I!

    No SPIKES! So the ancient motor is not beaten-on.

    An integral calculus equation can be applied to a stream of 120 modified Sine wave pulses to the second... but only if you are queer for math, since it is going to be what it is, whether you do the math or NOT!

    I'm the lazy brand of Engineer, so I simply measured the f****r, found it good, and moved-on, leaving the math to someone who actually gave a s**t about funny-looking Greek symbols.

    Last edited by thermite; 05-07-2021 at 11:31 PM.

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    Power Systems 5820-00-H07-4180-0-21-A 7.5KVA PH 1 240/120V Isolation Transformer | eBay

    I've thought about making an offer on this one, it's only a couple hours from me in Virginia and would suit all of my needs.

    If I go this Parker 514c-16 route I will likely piece part it all so it isn't a huge $$ hit all at once!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    Power Systems 5820-00-H07-4180-0-21-A 7.5KVA PH 1 240/120V Isolation Transformer | eBay

    I've thought about making an offer on this one, it's only a couple hours from me in Virginia and would suit all of my needs.

    If I go this Parker 514c-16 route I will likely piece part it all so it isn't a huge $$ hit all at once!
    Something ain't right. My largest is a Jefferson 5 KVA, 13" tall, 8" wide, 7" deep, and that includes the wire-nut space. You don't need outdoor-rated. Indoor dry or the more modest sized dual-use indoor/outdoor.

    Buy the SSD first. 514C- 4Q. NOT 512C- 1Q ..or you have to have group sex with really ugly contactors up yer backside. Used if you are feeling lucky. The 514C. Not the kinky-f**kery contactors.

    It will run your motor as shittily as a KB @ 180 VDC out, off direct 240 VAC input and its on-board naked rectifer hooked to 120 VAC for field, but will at least RUN it with no other parts but a circuit-breakered branch, one 10 K pot, and two toggle switches (ENABLE & RUN). The thermal sensor has to be strapped on the terminal block. Your motor won't have one unless you ADD one. Same loop CAN be used for "NC" E-Stop @ about five bucks, though.

    Boost transformer second. Field still sucks swamp water, but RPM goes up. Still raggedy-ass without the choke. No need of a pallet. Should ship ignorant UPS ground. Mine came from the left coast cheaply enuf.

    Then decent field supply so you can vary it, go for higher RPM. Any 180 VDC out of about 1 HP or 2 HP or better can work. SSD command/signal commonality on the 50X supports some neat stuff with no need of relays.


    Keep scouting for a deal on the ripple-filter choke. Try NRi. Both of my Rex are from them. More to that than "quiet". Motor is less "insulted", waaay smoother, and the useful power band gets wider, too.

    Shout if you get stuck. I'm meant to ship a Hammond as already-promised "seed corn". I have one of the Rex on standy if need be. That 16A is a major limiter for a 5 HP motor, but does either one of the 3 HP size just fine.

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    Thanks for the advice.

    So essentially I could go 514c-16 and a few odds and ends to at least make the bitch run.

    Then I can slowly piece part in all the necessary upgrades until I have it back to factory specs.

    Group sex with dirty contactors is what got me here and it's been no fun!

    Finding the 5kva transformers has been a chore, but I need to check with some more supply house pricing and less big box stores.

    Also that's really good to know I don't need a massive transformer like the one I sent, space is a premium in my little garage space!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_20210328_213128.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    Thanks for the advice.

    So essentially I could go 514c-16 and a few odds and ends to at least make the bitch run.

    Then I can slowly piece part in all the necessary upgrades until I have it back to factory specs.

    Group sex with dirty contactors is what got me here and it's been no fun!

    Finding the 5kva transformers has been a chore, but I need to check with some more supply house pricing and less big box stores.
    There are "legitimate" motor and transformer recyclers of significant size and long history on eBay as well as the one-off optimists. I have accounts directly with several, NRi head of the list for switchgear, motors, transformers, and chokes.

    Surplus and Used Industrial Parts and Equipment

    I'll have to go and look up a couple of the less-often utlized.


    Also that's really good to know I don't need a massive transformer like the one I sent, space is a premium in my little garage space!
    Everything fits inside the 10EE with room to spare. I can't be bothered to build 100% from scratch. I modify these - some as low as $17 when on sale, add salvaged caster-wheel wheels on shoulder bolts or axles:

    Folding step platform

    One can slide them in and out of the old MG garage between extruded shiney-wood rails for a "pull out". Once out, unfold the legs, "commission" (tune) the SSD sitting on a gas-strut mechanic's stool outside the lathe.

    Connections are by SO cord with Harvey-Hubbell twist locks. Two extension "patch" cord hack into mating SO cable, one for AC-in, one for DC-out to the motor.

    Controls are on CAT5s (screened) "patch" cord. "Patch" CAT5 uses stranded wire, not solid wire. RJ-45's for connection let the apron-mounted controls also be substituted-for by a local box with but one cable.

    Works for me, MG-era round-dial base castings.

    WiaD and modular drive base castings are arranged differently. The goods do not all have to live in the same place in the box, but they fit inside in all versions of 10EE.

  8. #107
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    Do you have any photos of it all packaged up in the base of the 10ee?

    I found a 514c-16 from an eBay scrapper for $350 from China. Which I'm gonna low-ball with some make offers and see if they'll bite. If I could get it for $150 it might be worth the gamble

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    Do you have any photos of it all packaged up in the base of the 10ee?

    I found a 514c-16 from an eBay scrapper for $350 from China. Which I'm gonna low-ball with some make offers and see if they'll bite. If I could get it for $150 it might be worth the gamble
    Only ONE of mine was actually "used. The other three were NOS, one "NIB", two "NNB". ONE of the NOS was an "infant mortality" unit that had probably been outright replaced under Warranty.

    The used one was good!

    But "the market", even several YEARS go, was about $299 to $399. even so, I was "cherry picking" only the best looking and from reputable major recyclers, US & Canada, not PRC.

    BTW: I don't "DO" photos.

    Pulled about 3 dozen when I discovered it drives psychopaths right up the wall, frothing at the mouth, talking feelthy, and outing their trollish selves as lying phoney nutters! Then making a career out of doing themselves FURTHER ugliness, year after year after year.

    Go figure they think their whining is some form of winning? I did say "psychopath?"

    I consider it a good thing for the general health of the PM community when the annoying wuckfits with that weird affliction publically harm themselves as the old expression goes:

    "right in front of God and EVERYBODY!"



    Back to the topic...

    You'll just have to grab a folding platform and start putting hunks of styrofoam or empty pastboard boxes atop to dummy-up your own version.

    It ain't at all HARD. It's easy. It's even CHEAP!

    Even if you change your mind, the platform is useful ANYWAY for washing or painting walls! That's where my "too big" ones went, first go at it when I grossly overestimated the space needed and got ones longer than needed.



    Not much THERE.

    Basically there will be two transformers, one big ripple-filter choke, the semiconductor fuses, and a couple of terminal strips on the platform itself.

    They need to be there to anchor two SO cords to the platform so no strain off the cables reach the PCB of the drives.

    For the "MG" base" the SSD'can go side-by side on a shop-fab frame that rises up from that platform to position them as if on a wall just inside the arse-end, where the piggyback exciter used to reside.

    As if the low-mass SSD's are in the toe of a boot, the lower bay the shank of the boot with the heavy transformers and choke.

    That position is still too low to hit eyeball line-of sight.
    So you will NOT want to try to tweak the setttings with the small screwdriver whilst in their hole.

    Pull the platform all the way out and unfold the legs. The ones near you, if not both.

    NOW, presuming the Ell frame has positioned the SSD's, as above?

    They will be just about perfectly at eye level when yer arse is on the "Big Red" gas-strut mechanic's stool. Or whatever you have, instead.

    That's why I DID it that way, after all.
    Too old and stiff to work hunched-over or on my belly!



    And yas, plexiglass or perf safety screesn to keep yer fingers away from the high-voltage are a Very Good Idea!


    Page Two:

    You CAN loop enough SO inside the machine so that the "bench" can be pulled-out without disconnecting, and save the cost of the two pairs of Hubbells, but....

    ..since I like to be able to use the rig for either 10EE or the spare motors being tested, I built it to be sort of "modular, stand-alone" and easily detached or swapped.

    - one RJ-45 to the controls on the lathe OR to a duplicate set in a box - similar to a pendant control, basically.

    - AC-in on one 4-wire 30A Hubbell to bring 240 VAC with Neutral for 120 (logic fans, worklights)

    - DC-out on one 5-Wire 30A Hubbell as A1,A2,, then F1, F2, and PE frame-ground

    This 4-wire // 5-Wire choice also insures I do not accidentally get AC and DC connections swapped!

    At that point, one can patch-in 50 or a 100 feet of each type of SO cord with M & F Hubbells, same-again the CAT5s, then operate the power supply and lathe at a distance from each other.

    Why wood-eye?

    Testing. Noise-levels included.

    I can put the whole shebang nearly 50 feet the other side of TWO 90-minute fire doors and measure with the Sound Pressure Level meter for the motor, belts, and bearing noise ONLY.

    Keep in mind I'm rather deaf! So I must use the SPL meter, not my own ears!

    Last edited by thermite; 05-09-2021 at 03:06 PM.

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    https://www.ebay.com/p/1401830676?iid=274716193139

    Would this transformer work for my needs?
    the only thing I am missing here is how is this boosting the voltage?

    I am finding 5 kva transformers but am unable to find any that have a secondary voltage boost rating.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    https://www.ebay.com/p/1401830676?iid=274716193139

    Would this transformer work for my needs?
    the only thing I am missing here is how is this boosting the voltage?

    I am finding 5 kva transformers but am unable to find any that have a secondary voltage boost rating.
    EGS *was* a General-Signal property and makes good stuff.

    A NEW Parker-SSD can STAND the 480, but it is too high an input for the 10EE tasking. You dial it down, but it would still mean longer "OFF" times between higher-Voltage but narrower "ON" pulse time.

    You want to max-out the input at NOT over 380 VAC before setting any limits.
    320 to 350 is better.

    The way to do that CHEAPLY is with at least two transformers if not three.

    The primaries go in PARALLEL.
    The secondaries go in SERIES.
    Most transformers in this class are reversible, but it puts the Voltages off by a skosh.

    That's part of why you want full-isolation. Noise blocking is the other reason.

    EX - some with a tad of rounding:

    240:240 + 240:120 = 240:360

    I'll skip listing the primary now. You want 240 VAC.

    277 + 48 = 325

    277 = 48 + 16 = 341 (it's my solid 246 not 240, input that takes mine to 350)

    Do the same for one or more of 12 VAC, 16 VAC, 24 VAC, 32 VAC as well as 48 VAC.

    48 VAC is about as high as you find the common ones, BTW.
    I think I even had to order that one brand new?

    Set up a spreadsheet if it helps.

    Page two:

    The above figures are all for "series aiding" connected same phase "direction".

    One can also connect one or more as "series bucking". 180 degrees OUT of phase with the rest. To SUBTRACT from the total.

    That isn't USUALLY the best way to go. But.. your ebay 240:480 VAC? If bucked with a 240:120 would be dropped to 240:360 VAC.

    2/3 of the KVA in the first, 1/3 in the second, but now we need higher KVA, total as soem of it is argueing with its sibling, not helping us.

    More better to boost a 240:240 with a 240:120 to come UP to 360 VAC, all hands pulling the rope in the same direction.

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    Jefferson Electric Transformer 211-0111-055 5 KVA 240/480 Pri 120/240 Sec TEST👍 | eBay

    Is it possible to use this one in reverse to Buck the voltage up 120V?
    even with shipping id be in $290 so its not terrible.



    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...hoCk4cQAvD_BwE

    this one looks to be a single shot to exactly the voltage i need, albeit even a bit high at 380 but it would work.

    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...xoCg0sQAvD_BwE

    Now this one would also work similar, i could go in reverse and buck the voltage up to the 360 which comes in a bit closer to what i want.
    and this one is $120 cheaper.

    now both of these are for a one and done transformer, finding multiple will bring the cost down but packaging and wiring concerns will
    be an issue especially since used are usually odd sized. i will keep digging though.

    I suppose the main first purchase focus should be acquiring a 514C-16 and the necessary transformers.

    (also, when i do this conversion i will start a new thread with good documentation and photographs. maybe even something on youtube for added documentation)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    i could go in reverse
    None of those are really right. Nicely made goods. Those makers know their s**t.

    But all cost too much for what you need.
    You are over-thinking the space needed, too. AND the mass.

    The total parts for an SSD with two or even three transformers, plus the big choke and the drives are still lower cube than any drive system Monarch ever shipped before they went to VFD's

    There's plenty of space to spare, and DC Drives don't waste the heat VFD's do, so it need not even have a lot of space for cooling air.

    Cheap spot is still a 5 KVA 240 => 240 plus around a 2.5 KVA or so 240 => 120 and yer right about 360 VAC and plenty of balls for a cool running Daily Driver.

    And not a lot larger than a four-slice kitchen toaster for the transformers. Two, worst-case.

    277 VAC will make chips. 300 VAC will "do". 320 is nice enough to probably just leave be and go make chips.

    Remember - a "4Q" SSD load-regulates about a full order of magnitude better than any of the OEM goods. Time has passed. New and better technology came along. It was put to work.

    Your rig does not have to be "once and done-forever", either.
    You can ALWAYS add more boost, later.

    It's only a few wires nuts or terminal strip connections. An AC transformer doesn't HAVE to even be in the same ROOM of the building.

    You are not in need of "freezing the design" of the "DNA" for the whole future of the chillin's of the race of man, here.

    Just trying to get decent value-for-money and not WASTE it on side-trips as you go.

    "DAMHIKT"... $6,000 of experimentation out of pocket into that game. and counting..

    It's what I enjoy. Not as if there was any SHORTAGE of other folk to "make chips". Hard enuf' for some among them to even find decent work as it is.

    My age? 20 years and more a company MD/Chairman? AFTER 33 years on somebody ELSE's dime in near-as-dammit the same roles? I wasn't yet 30 years old when I directed Titmus Optical be sold-off, Esterline Medical to Zeiss! Look up the dates.

    I'd rather hire a thing or two from among these good folk now and then than roll-back the clock full 60 year and "become one" again!


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    Cheap spot is still a 5 KVA 240 => 240 plus around a 2.5 KVA or so 240 => 120 and yer right about 360 VAC and plenty of balls for a cool running Daily Driver.


    that should work for exactly what i need, i am finding some eBay rigs for around $150-$200, shipped would be around the $250 total range.
    I'm having a hard time finding any transformers with a 3-5 KVA rating for any less than that, even second hand market is coming up high priced as well.
    Most i am seeing in the low budget range have a KVA of lower than 1-2. By the time it would be wired up id be at the same cost as a single shot transformer.

    EGS 5 kVA Transformer HS5F5AS Used #54024 | eBay

    this one could be a one shot and done with the proper KVA rating. if i was in around $250 on a transformer setup that would not be too hateful

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    Cheap spot is still a 5 KVA 240 => 240 plus around a 2.5 KVA or so 240 => 120 and yer right about 360 VAC and plenty of balls for a cool running Daily Driver.


    that should work for exactly what i need, i am finding some eBay rigs for around $150-$200, shipped would be around the $250 total range.
    I'm having a hard time finding any transformers with a 3-5 KVA rating for any less than that, even second hand market is coming up high priced as well.
    Most i am seeing in the low budget range have a KVA of lower than 1-2. By the time it would be wired up id be at the same cost as a single shot transformer.

    EGS 5 kVA Transformer HS5F5AS Used #54024 | eBay

    this one could be a one shot and done with the proper KVA rating. if i was in around $250 on a transformer setup that would not be too hateful
    You are letting your impatience outrun common sense.

    Good transformer.

    Where do you see 320 to 360 VAC in the specs?

    Not a match to the need.

    Keep looking. Use the ebay "watch list" feature.
    Keep running a high-speed "recce".

    Only THEN come back and ponder over the "watch list".

    Do that every day? Spot the regular listers. Browse their sub-site.

    Find their OWN website.

    The major regular-line-of-bizness recyclers only ever PUT about ten-percent of their current inventory on ebay to begin with. They'll TELL you so "just contact us and ask" Their inventory changes by the hour and even MINUTE, y'see.

    "Regular" customers snap most of it up before they NEED to even take more than one photo and do a write-up if even they photo it at all.

    Just in case you were not aware?

    I mean...I ring-up or email NRi and the same lady pops back a reply with a list of candidates. eBay not even involved. It is her JOB.

    Try NRi as an example.

    There's another in Halls, Tennesse, another in the Carolinas, and another just a few miles away from HGR out in Ohio. See also "Golden" in central Ohio. And not-only.

    Go at it as if you knew what you were doing, and you could find your bargain while the SSD is still in transit. If not, then a week or three.

    "Patience, Grasshopper" Haste empties wallets faster than it brings joy.

    350 million souls going about their bizness? New listings of s**t show up used all the time. NO dealer wants to be a "museum", either. Not for used goods they do not.

    Most take any reasonable offer, bank it, ship it, and go chase the NEXT sale.

    That's why they have a "going concern" as a regular bizness, year after long year.

    We even call them "successful merchants".



    Meanwhile, speaking of impatience... back at the 10EE.... Go and stare d'rectly into its ass.

    See those two "A" section vee belts?

    The pulley sizes used, they are good for over 5 HP EACH. Pull them.

    Kick around the local debris field and find a 1-P motor of 1/2 HP or better with an "A" section or close-enuf pulley. Put ONE belt to it. Shorter. The motor is up on a simple wooden frame. Up in the air and hanging out the back. OEM motor take a nap in-place.

    Did you miss the obvious?

    You can actually make "emergency" one-speed, and baby-it-but-it works ....chips.

    A 10EE is loyal. Cooperative, even. "The little engine that COULD". It don't ASK as much as it is willing to deliver.

    All part of why they are such beloved creatures.

    Mind you have lube in the spindle bearing reservoirs. That much, it DOES ask!


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    Where do you see 320 to 360 VAC in the specs?

    Wouldn't I be able to come in on the 120 low voltage side and "buck" the voltage up 120VAC?
    or is that incorrect, which i have no knowledge of these things






    "Patience, Grasshopper" Haste empties wallets faster than it brings joy.

    I still need to work on this part, luckily i am not a doctor because i have little patients

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    Where do you see 320 to 360 VAC in the specs?
    Wouldn't I be able to come in on the 120 low voltage side and "buck" the voltage up 120VAC?
    or is that incorrect, which i have no knowledge of these things
    Lot of things CAN be done. That does not make them a good idea.
    ISTR the main 240-277 transformer in my first rig was $200, shipping included and one of two the vendor had, brand new?


    "Patience, Grasshopper" Haste empties wallets faster than it brings joy.
    I still need to work on this part, luckily i am not a doctor because i have little patients
    Not hard. I think they call it "nano technology" nowadays instead of playing with dolls or tin sojers?


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    I found a few second hand transformers. One is 3 KVA 16/32, one is 2KVA 12/24 and another is .75 KVA 16/32.

    All three of those in conjunction with my current one would get me to 358 volts and I could get all three of them for probably $100 total

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    I found a few second hand transformers. One is 3 KVA 16/32, one is 2KVA 12/24 and another is .75 KVA 16/32.

    All three of those in conjunction with my current one would get me to 358 volts and I could get all three of them for probably $100 total
    I'm leaving the math to you on the basis that if you build a man a fire he is only warm for a few hours, but if you can manage to SET him on fire he is warm for the rest of his life!



    But my gut feel is that 750 VA is borderline for a 32 V share, and if that small a VA rating 24V or less would be about right.

    "Gut feel" as I am lazy about doing anything twice if I have sorted out how it works, first go, or without even bothering to have to do it at all.

    No. We don't have children.

    Why did you ask?

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    These are the transformers I have found. It would take all three of these, plus my current transformer to get me at 258VAC with a combined KVA of 5.78 which is plenty for the 3hp setup.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails screenshot_20210513-064520.jpg   screenshot_20210513-064457.jpg   screenshot_20210513-064502.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain2015 View Post
    These are the transformers I have found. It would take all three of these, plus my current transformer to get me at 258VAC with a combined KVA of 5.78 which is plenty for the 3hp setup.
    Photos are essentially useless for transformers unless the label is clear and directly readable without need of saving and zooming outside of PM.

    We've all seen metal cases painted gray at least once, yah?

    All we really need is plaintext with VA // KVA rating and Voltages.

    Each go, include again whetever you already HAVE.

    "Extra credit" make & model or SKU. because one can look those up online and get the REST of the specs and how the transformer is positioned in a maker's product line and / or meant to be utilized.

    Dunno what you have this go, but I have 246 VAC right out of the wall, so all 258 VAC would do for me is fulfill the "drive isolation transformer" function for right-decent noise blocking.

    There isn't much barrier to four, five or six transformer arranged in an array, but just two is a good goal, three at the most.

    Custom winding is not hard, either, BTW. Ham & Audio buffs have been DIY'ing it rather casually for easily a hundred years.

    Power ONE, their first year of existence had the PSU I wanted to use, quoted me a fair price for a custom Voltage on it. My medical lab device market was so low in annual unit-count, but high in value, I simply took a hammer to their transformer's ferrite cups, wound my own coil, used a new set of ferrite cups and changed a pair of reference circuit resistors.

    Once I got the coils where they needed to be, the rest took but a few minutes. each unit.


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