10EE round dial gearbox removal instructions
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  1. #1
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    Default 10EE round dial gearbox removal instructions

    I'm posting this to help the next beginner who wants/needs to remove the gearbox. Bfore anyone writes "This has already been covered!", I spent many hours here looking in the Monarch discussion group for exactly these instructions. Although it has been discussed, in many cases the photos accompanying the instructions were to URLs that were broken. Also, the instructions were sometime confusing. I'm posting the photos here with this text so they will be all together and hopefully, much easier to follow.

    Caveat: This is for a 1943 10EE round dial. No claims made about applicability to any other model, year, etc.

    You should have a roll of paper towels at the ready because gearbox oil will probably leak out.

    STEPS
    1. Drain the gearbox, then remove the drain pipe itself.

    2. Remove the two cap screws holding the Lead Screw Bearing Plate on the tailstock end of the lathe. Don't try to pull it off: the leadscrew has a snap ring holding it in one of the bearings in the bearing plate.

    monarch-lathe-3-1200.jpg

    3. Go to the headstock end of the leadscrew and drive out the taper pin.

    img_6040.jpg

    4. Disengage the leadscrew from the carriage. You should now be able to pull the leadscrew, feed rod, and the Lead Screw Bearing Plate as one unit away from the gearbox.

    5. Remove the mechanical/electrical leadscrew reverser from the left side of the feed forward/reverse selector. My lathe doesn't have either of those except for the small square piece, shown here, held on by four cap screws. In any case, whatever is there needs to come off to gain access to one of the three cap screws holding on the body of the leadscrew reverser.

    leadscrew-reverse.jpg

    6. Put the leadscrew reverser into "neutral", and remove the three cap screws holding on to the gearbox. Then simply pull the entire assembly out. You'll want to have a cork to put in the hole where it came out in case there is still oil in the gearbox. Lots of rags, too!

    Next, we'll turn our attention to removing as little as possible from the end gearing

    7. The casting the holds the Feed Shaft Bearing needs to come off. It is held on by four cap screws. Removing the pulley first makes the job easier, but isn't necessary. Once the four screws are out, simply pull it out.

    feedshaft-bearing.jpg

    8. Remove these two nuts and the quadrant clamp (the curved piece in the photo) and then remove the entire quadrant assemble.

    quadrant.jpg

    I'll continue the next steps in a response to this one because the message thread software won't let me attach more than five photos.
    Last edited by focusrsh; 11-07-2019 at 06:15 PM.

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  3. #2
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    PART 2

    9. Remove the four cap screws holding the Tumbler Shaft Cap to the gearbox, and then remove the entire assembly. (You don't have to remove the gear that is normally on the shaft. I had already removed it in this photo.) The empty hole to the left of it is where the Feedshaft Bearing casting was. We removed it in step 7.

    img_6467.jpg

    Almost done!

    10. Remove the four cap screws on the front of the gearbox. You should now be able to wiggle the gearbox loose from the body of the lathe and slide it forward.

    img_6115.jpg

    WARNING! The gearbox is REALLY, REALLY HEAVY! Unless you regularly compete in the World's Strongest Man competition, you'll need a friend to lift it off and put it on the bench.

    img_6468.jpg

    That's it! It really isn't a bad job at all.
    Last edited by focusrsh; 11-07-2019 at 06:16 PM.


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