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10ee spindle removal

swellwelder

Stainless
Joined
Sep 21, 2002
Location
Valley City, ND USA
This is related to my post on 10ee spindle problems, but now that the spindle has to come out to fix the problem, thought a new thread would be seen by more people. I looked through the search function and didn't find anything useful, but maybe gave up too soon. Anyway, I would like to get any advice anyone might have on the do"s and don'ts of spindle removal It doesn't look difficult, but there are usually some be careful about... or be sure to mark this before removal, that kind of thing.

Dale Nelson
 
Dale I really wish I could help you out as your other thread probably saved me some crunch time down the road. I have never had the spindle out of mine. I hope someone shows up and can help you out.
 
Spindle Removal?

Of course, the trick is not just getting it out, but getting it out w/o damage and then getting it back together again, right? (Hopefully while fixing the problem at the same time).

Do a search on this forum (Monarch) and look for posts by Daryl Bane, he covered his headstock overhaul pretty darned thoroughly IIRC, when he rebuilt his (now) gorgeous 10ee.

This will possibly be a big help to you, and save you a lot of time waiting for answers that are already here, and give you better answers than a new thread might, anyway. IIRC, Daryl took a lot of good pics and made a lot of good notes on the process. Seems like Daryl was able to finish with his TIR under .0001! That was with new bearings.

The streaming ads are slowing my wonky connection down today, but when time permits, I'll read your other thread and see if I can help any.

Good luck,
Jess
 
Jess

Thanks for the info on Daryl Bane's thread. I haven't had time to look it up, but anything I can learn before removing parts will for sure make the job easier.

Dale
 
Be sure and take a copious amount of notes and mark the position of the inner races of the spindle bearings location on the spindle. There should be a dot/etc on the inner race. Be sure and check for burrs on the woodruff key slots. When all is right, the spindle should come out easily. I found it easier to place the headstock nose up sitting on some 2x4's off the end of a stout table. Put a lightbulb inside the headstock for a bout a hour and lower the spindle/bearings down into the headstock. If all is right, the spindle will feel like its being sucked into the headstock. Thanks Jess for the kind words. One problem I have is once a project is finished, my bodily brain storage is too small to save all the little tidbits and information and it gets deleted. :crazy:
 
I also have been preparing for removal.
Tidbits I have found on removal:

1. There is a setscrew on the back of the headstock above the Fwd/Rev switch.
Expect a second setscrew in the same hole.

2. The idler gear for the spindle tach gets damaged if not moved or removed.

This is all I have found so far.

Bill
 
Loosen the tachometer gear on the spindle. Watch it very carefully as it comes out so that it does not get caught on something, it is damaged very easily. I used the threaded holes for the bearing retainer in the back, and threaded rod to press the spindle out. It should come out without any trouble, and no hammer. Other that that make sure to get the screw out of the back of the headstock, and remove everything on the back of the spindle. THe SHCS on the bearing retainer in the front is the only other part that has to be loosened.
 
Last edited:
(I see that Lee was posting while I was writing...)

Bill,

(You probably already know this, but just in case…) It's not one, but two setscrews that you have to remove, one on top of the other. The top one is really just a plug and is usually hiding under the filler. Look in the plane of the spindle about 1-15/16" from the front (tailstock end) of the headstock casting. Monarch (and other machine tool companies) use these stacked setscrews all over the place.

Dale,


I haven't removed a spindle, but here are the steps, as I understand them:
  1. Remove drive pulley and spindle lock gear.
  2. Remove the stacked setscrews from the back of the headstock. The inner screw bears against the back of the outer spacer (EE-1127) for the front bearings.
  3. Back off the setscrew for the tachometer drive gear (EE-1121) on the spindle, so that it can slide on the spindle. It looks like there is a Woodruff key in the spindle, opposite the setscrew. You might want to rotate the spindle 180 degrees after backing off the setscrew, so that the key is on the top and not so likely to drop into the bottom of the headstock.
  4. Mark the clutch (EE-2112) and the splines on the spindle so that you can get it back on the same splines.
  5. Remove the 6 socket head cap screws that hold the front bearing retainer (EE-1128) to the headstock casting. Put a mark on the top of the retainer before you pull it loose.
  6. The spindle, front bearings and front bearing retainer all come out together. The spindle should come out without putting up much of a fight. If they don't, stop and we'll try to figure out what we're missing.
  7. As you withdraw the spindle, put a mark on the top of the bearings, so that you can put them back the same way.
  8. The clutch and tach gear will drop off the end of the spindle as you finish withdrawing it; be ready to catch them.
EE_99_HEADSTOCKfrontbearing.png


For what you're doing, you shouldn't need to mess with the preload nut (#N-12).

I hope this helps. If anyone see's anything that I've missed, PLEASE chime in.

Cal
 
Thanks everyone

I have removed the drive pulley and spindle lock gear. If all goes as planned, will attempt the spindle removal tomorrow. If all goes well, will not have to ask, What do I do now?

Dale
 
Cal, thanks for putting up the dwg. of the spindle assembly. One thing I think that is interesting on that dwg. is the interference fit measurements for the two parts of the oil dam/slinger (EE1123/1124) at the left side of the spindle bearings.

This is just an opinion, but I would think that if anyone has a front bearing oil reservoir that leaks into the main oil sump in the headstock, the oil dam/slinger is the most likely place for it to be leaking. And if it is leaking while sitting, that points at 1123.
 
Dave, you're right, that's the culprit.

It's also interesting to see a glaring error in Cal's portion of the drawing. (Not Cal's mistake!)

Now consider the specified fits on the drawing between mating parts and distribute tolerances between them. Do those in production 70 years ago, it was at the edge.
 
Just an update. I got the spindle out today, no major surprises, had to re-do my original puller(pusher in this case) but after that came out like it should. Still waiting on a slap hammer to remove the EE-2003 collar. I will have to solve the problem of the gear under the spindle(don't have the diagram in front of me to give the number) but am hoping it is no more than loosening a set screw and moving it out of the way.

Dale
 
Do you have any photos of your spindle removal tool?

The gear and retaining collar should be no problem, just make sure you move the shifter to the right to make room. Do me a favor and have a look at the inner retaining ring and see if it has a notch for an alignment pin, as shown on the square-dial headstock drawing.

Cal
 
By the way, the red line in the drawing is my best reconstruction of the front reservoir oil level.

What do you guys think about using a wicking sealant, like Loctite 290, to seal EE-1123 to the headstock casting?
Cal

That product will work on clean parts but not on the well soaked oily parts one would have in a used assembled headstock. Disassembly and cleaning would be needed. It's overkill in that situation, Loctite 290 has tremendous shear strength, future disassembly would be a bear.
 
[Loctite 290] will work on clean parts but not on the well soaked oily parts one would have in a used assembled headstock. Disassembly and cleaning would be needed. It's overkill in that situation, Loctite 290 has tremendous shear strength, future disassembly would be a bear.

Any other suggestions to seal the reservoir? How about a quarter circle of Permatex applied to the front of EE-1123?

Cal
 
Hello all,

This thread is excellent. A big 'Thank you' to everyone who has contributed.

Using the information here I succeeded in removing the spindle from my '64 square dial 10ee. A couple of things to note:

-- The tachometer drive gear on my lathe has a key but no set screw, also, it is small enough that it comes out with the spindle.

-- The set screw locking the bearing spacer from rotation is on the BACK of the head stock. Cal said it, I couldn't find it. I made the mistake of removing the spindle before removing the set screw (a single specially made screw, not a stacked pair). Hope I didn't brinell the races on the second of the main spindle bearings.

After some fooling about with things that didn't work, the puller I ended up using is shown in the photos. I'm not proud of it. It works. Borrowed the idea from a youtuber (whose name is lost to the swirling vortex of time). The puller is simple: four 3/8" bolts (two sets in different lengths), a length of 5/8" threaded rod, two nuts, fourwashers and two hardwood blocks (beech, in this case).

I removed the spindle to fix oil leaking between reservoirs. Any ideas on what to use to seal the oil reservoirs? Form-A-Gasket 2B? Rectorseal #5?

IMG_0107.jpgIMG_0109.jpg
 








 
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