10EE taper cross feed screw needed, or info
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  1. #1
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    Default 10EE taper cross feed screw needed, or info

    Hey all, I am in need of a taper attach. cross feed screw, new, used etc. I can make a new one (I have the ground rod already) But I have no existing screw to copy as the P.O. "broke" it and it's nowhere to be found. Does anyone have a screw for sale, rent, lease or can do good measurements and provide ?

    Todd

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    Quote Originally Posted by Desmato View Post
    Hey all, I am in need of a taper attach. cross feed screw, new, used etc. I can make a new one (I have the ground rod already) But I have no existing screw to copy as the P.O. "broke" it and it's nowhere to be found. Does anyone have a screw for sale, rent, lease or can do good measurements and provide ?

    Todd
    The links below have.
    A manual for a 1942 10ee and a manual for a 1965 10ee. And a horde of monarch 10ee literature too sort through.
    More information about your 10ee and photos may help. In the other thread you posted that monarch made so many changes and couldn't figure out what you had.

    There are some of the most knowledgeable Monarch experts that exist on this forum but they need photos and serial numbers to help. I am not an expert but Acme threads were used on a lot of cross feed screws. You need to know the diameter. See if you can find a print on vintage Machinery that matches your lathe

    Your lathe may be modified. A Frankenstien.

    Quote from the other thread
    It appears Monarch made them so many different ways that even they don't know. My factory supplied parts booklet has all the wrong parts diagrams for my lathe. It has the correct serial number on the cover, so I know it came with. When communicating with Monarch, they are having a hard time finding diagrams to accurately quote.

    Monarch Machine Tool Co. - Publication Reprints - Model 10EE Manual | VintageMachinery.org

    Monarch Machine Tool Co. - Publication Reprints - Model 10EE Manual | VintageMachinery.org

    Monarch Machine Tool Co. - Publication Reprints | VintageMachinery.org

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    Take off your cross-feed dial and post some photos of it. I want to see what you have left.

    Is this a round- or square-dial. What model year?

    Cal

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    I've got a couple from a square dial with taper, could loan them to you.

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    My lathe is a 1967 serial EE-49018. Square dial, ELSR equipped, With a full set of Metric gears and threading plate.

    It uses a taper screw but has a support block that bolts to the rear of the cross slide instead of the taper slide/support block assy. When I questioned Monarch about the pictures in my factory issued book (serial number on the cover) and them not matching my machine, I was told " The book is just for referencing" and "most of the manual should be correct, it may just have been this particular area since there is not a good breakdown"

    I have NO screw to compare, but digging DEEP on the web, I discovered that my machine uses a standard Taper type screw (The handle end is hollow 3.300" inches deep with a key)

    I have found a resource that has a "near perfect" taper screw and nut along with the tiny bevel gear for my speed potentiometer, which was another drawing that was incorrect in my book and Monarch had to provide. The screw and gear should be here in a few days, then I get to move on to powering it back up.

    FYI, I recently purchased this from the 2nd or 3rd owner... and I don't think he ever ran it. It suffered some minor damage to the rear of the cross slide (support bearing, screw and chip cover) during the move into his shop and he went so far to find the new support block and a length of ACME screw stock, then I came along. It was originally sold to IBM and has all the cool IBM Dymo labels and Maintenance plates on it still.
    20210930_120051.jpg

    20210930_120021.jpg

    20210930_120012.jpg

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    Mllud22
    Monarch was very specific about looking up my machine in their system to find the parts that it was built with, then providing quotes for said parts ($1450 for a screw + nut). They were not very helpful in answering if the screw was the same as a taper screw though. Also, my speed control uses a bevel gear setup on the potentiometer, which is original to the machine, along with a different High/Low mechanism. My manual shows the old chain style from the 50's.

    I've looked at every publication on Vintage Machinery and the Web and none show the parts my machine has. This is where Monarch failed as they didn't have good drawings either, or at least weren't willing to share them with me.

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    Pic of the document Monarch emailed me that IS the correct speed control assy mine has. Maybe other's could use this ?

    monarch-speed-control-assy..jpg

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    I repeat, take the cross-feed dial off. Show us a picture of the back side. I need to see what you have left.

    Cal

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    Desmato
    Following Cal and others on this subject is your best bet.

    I just want too say that I have a 1962 square dial with a taper attachment.

    Your metric lathe may have a longer keyed shaft end where the dials mount. My lathe carriage is disassembled and I cant remember if the block mounts on the carriage or taper attachment.
    Anyway here are some photos of the cross-feed screw on mine. I can get any measurements you need.
    I can get photos of the dial pieces also. Your metric should have two dials.

    The photos help a guy like Cal ,rke[pler or rimcanyon recognize your part. As you now know there were many different made over the years
    The one you found on the web may have already answered your questions.
    Good luck with this.


    ooo.jpg


    oooooo.jpg


    20211005_094504_resized_1.jpg

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    I have no idea why, but I can not post pics when logged in on my phone. None of the icons for font, color, uploads etc. exist even in advanced.

    Here are pics of my dial assy. I don't believe it's a dual (Metric & SAE) unit, though I have the full set of metric gears and as seen in one picture, the metric threading plate. would be nice to have the dual cross slide dials, but $$$$$$ and I can do math

    20211006_161432.jpg

    20211006_161443.jpg

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    You have the important parts. Assuming that you have the brass nut, you could make the screw from a length of precision ACME threaded rod. Mllud22 might be willing to provide you with the overall length and the dimensions of the end features. Do you have the brass nut?

    Cal

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    I have the nut and it is pretty snug on the piece of threaded rod I have. The used screw that should be here today, also has a nut, but the height may not be correct for my cross slide. I'll compere the 2 and see what I see.

    I do need the chip cover that goes below the cross slide, the dovetail steel one. OR, a drawing....

    Im eager to get this back on line.

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    I'll sell you my old screw/nut for $75 plus shipping. 1964 vintage machine with taper.

    If you want to buy a new nut and screw contact Brian at Miller Machine.

    [email protected]

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    Thanks for all the replies. The screw/nut I ordered arrived today. I will test fit and let you all know the outcome.

    Front chip cover dimensions would be great so I can make a new one... or if anyone has a spare ?

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    Screw and nut are in great shape ! I was able to measure the "new" nut against my old one and there is .001 difference in height so I am goin to use the one that came with as it seems just noticeably tighter.

    Here are some pics of it test fitted (waiting on new thrust bearings, still...)then final clean and assembly.

    I want to point of again, that my lathe came from Monarch with his arrangement (Taper screw, rear support block) and if others with missing taper attachment parts need, this rear block will lock the shaft and turn the lathe back into a "non-taper" version. It's held on with 2 socket head cap screws and 2 - .250 alignment pins. I am curious if all taper lathes have these 4 holes in the rear of the saddle though. you can see my original damaged block in one of the pictures.

    Thanks for all the help ! on to the next part of getting her running.

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    20211007_161932.jpg

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    Quote;
    Front chip cover dimensions would be great so I can make a new one... or if anyone has a spare ?

    Are you talking about the cover that slides in and out up by the dial or the one that covers the other end of the screw ?
    I can get photos and dimensions of either.




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    I'm looking for the front "cover" by the dial. It's flat sheet with a dovetail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Desmato View Post
    I'm looking for the front "cover" by the dial. It's flat sheet with a dovetail.
    Here are the measurements . This part is not badly worn so everything should be close.
    2.457" wide on the square end and is consistent down to where the beveled corner starts.


    Measures.198" wide on the slot down the center end to end. The slot ends .527 from the end with the beveled corners
    On the squared off end the slot ends .502 from the end.
    I'll get a depth of the slot in the morning


    Its 6.368" long
    It measures 5.632 from squared off end to corner of where the beveled off corner starts


    The flat in the center of the beveled off end is 1.220" across.
    This part is .104" thick

    The side without the slot is the bottom.
    Both outside edges are beveled to fit in the dovetail of the cross slide.

    I cant find my protractor to give a spec on the beveled edges. Refer to your dovetail angle.
    The beveled off corners appear to be a 45 deg angle but no way to verify right now.
    Monarch didn't appear to try to make parts in common fractional sizes.

    I'm not proud of the way I wrote this up. Time and energy ran out. My day starts at 03:00 am
    I can draw it up tomorrow if you need a drawing. Let me know.

    ppooii.jpg


    20211011_144147_resized-1335-ppooiiuuyy.jpg


    ppooiiuu.jpg

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    Ill draw that tomorrow. Its not very well described.

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    ppooii.jpg


    Again the edges are tapered to match your dovetail in the cross slide. The part is .106 thick
    I wish I had a spare too send you.
    If I missed something let me know.

    The lines going through the print means nothing. ??

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