12 CK gear mesh question

Ultradog MN

Cast Iron

Joined

Jun 14, 2020

• Aug 13, 2021

• #1

I finally got around to pulling the cover off my head stock this week. Going to drain/flush it and give it some new oil. I also want to clean and reseal the 2 site glasses as they are dark and seep a bit of oil.
So I was looking it all over and noticed the mesh on the cogs closest to the chuck don't fully mesh.
Tried to get some photos of it.
Is this a problem I should worry about? And is there an adjustment for it?
I hope you can see it but if I snap the shift handle into place the cog does not fully mesh.
Thoughts?

Thank you

 

texasgeartrain

Titanium

Joined

Feb 23, 2016

Location

Houston, TX

• Aug 13, 2021

• #2

I'd want full engagement. If you pull the lever off its shaft, is it splinded, keyed, or drilled with a pin ?

 

johnoder

Diamond

Joined

Jul 16, 2004

Location

Houston, TX USA

• Aug 13, 2021

• #3

Levers out front have fixed stopping points - and things don't stay perfect over 75 years. My worst stopping point is helped a lot by shifting the stopping point of the lever assy with a wood wedge on my 1946 CW 16

 

TDegenhart

Diamond

Joined

Mar 26, 2011

Location

Geneva Illinois USA

• Aug 13, 2021

• #4

I had the same problem with my 12CK. The shoulders of the clutch were rounded to the point the clutch wouldn't stay in mesh. Problem solved by plugging the locating hole and redrilling a new one. Works fine now.

Tom

 

Ultradog MN

Cast Iron

Joined

Jun 14, 2020

• Aug 13, 2021

• #5

It is pinned.

 

O

Ohio Mike

Titanium

Joined

Oct 30, 2008

Location

Central Ohio, USA

• Aug 13, 2021

• #6

What is the engagement like when the lever is moved to engage the dog clutch on the other side?

 

Ultradog MN

Cast Iron

Joined

Jun 14, 2020

• Aug 13, 2021

• #7

Ohio Mike said:

What is the engagement like when the lever is moved to engage the dog clutch on the other side?

Click to expand...

Full engagement.

 

rabler

Cast Iron

Joined

May 25, 2020

Location

Rural S.W. Indiana

• Aug 13, 2021

• #8

Ultradog MN said:

Full engagement.

Click to expand...

I'd be trying to figure out if I needed more travel on the sliding dog, or if the travel needed to be shifted to the right. Are you getting full engagement on the left before reaching the pin on the face that the lever engages? Or is it just getting to full engagement when you reach that pin? Also, between the front lever and the sliding dog, is there any play? As I recall, the fork and lever are both pinned to the same shaft so there shouldn't be any play in there unless one of those taper pins or holes is bad. Is there any play on either side of the brass/bronze shoes between the fork and the sliding dog? If so those bronze shoes may need to be replaced.

 

Ultradog MN

Cast Iron

Joined

Jun 14, 2020

• Aug 16, 2021

• #9

I was thinking about doing as TDegenhart did.
Make a plug out of CI and locktite it in then redrill and tap about 1/8" over.
A guy I know who lives near me had the same problem on his CK. Photos show the fix someone did on his.
Must have been a problem on these models.
I am still leaning toward TDegenhart's method.
Which way would you guys do it and if you don't mind, why?
Thanks

 

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