16"? Monarch lathe near Richmond, VA - $150 - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    About the spacers, a little Kroil and a few "Love Taps" with a brass hammer and they should work off by hand (mine did), once they start to loosen up they'll come right off.
    Watch that Cross slide, it's more than a handful and not even close to being balanced, don't let that puppy sneak up on you.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joeman77 View Post
    About the spacers, a little Kroil and a few "Love Taps" with a brass hammer and they should work off by hand (mine did), once they start to loosen up they'll come right off.
    Watch that Cross slide, it's more than a handful and not even close to being balanced, don't let that puppy sneak up on you.
    I've shown the lathe a lot of "love" lately! The collars are swimming in Kroil but didn't budge with the initial round of bludgeoning.

    I will be cautions on the cross slide. I could tell by how much force it took just to slide it that's got some mass to it..

  3. #43
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    Default Spacers are off!

    Quote Originally Posted by jlkunka View Post
    I've shown the lathe a lot of "love" lately! The collars are swimming in Kroil but didn't budge with the initial round of bludgeoning.
    So, I got the spindle spacers off yesterday. Put a sharp putty knife at the split between them and a few light taps separated them. They then pulled off easily. Turns out it was just oily goo cementing them together, combined with zero play to the shaft and two woodruff keys keeping them from turning.

    So instead of two locking collars with spanner holes,this lathe has two blank spacers with two woodruff keys 180 degrees apart to keep them from turning, and one outer threaded locknut with a spanner hole and a setscrew. Will post some pics once I clean them off.

  4. #44
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    jlkunka: Congratulations on picking up this lathe! Nice to see it rescued.
    Regarding your removal of those sleeve-spacers:
    I've had a lot of luck with using heat on sleeves or spacers like you just removed.
    The combination of softening the semi-rigid dried grease, and the slight increase in diameter in the spacer from applied heat, often will do the job.
    Also: heat followed by application of your favorite penetrant works great: as the part cools, the penetrant is drawn into the slight gap between the sleeve and shaft.
    I do not use an oxy-acetylene torch ! I prefer either a Mapp or Propane torch, or a heat gun, or an induction heater. The 'blue-tip wrench' can be a bit too-much concentrated heat, and do some damage. Of course, if you are aware of that, and are careful, the 'blue-tip' wrench is a wonderful tool, or maybe I should say, a necessary tool at times.
    I often feel like a 'hack' when i have to resort to using the torch, but the right tool for the job, properly used, will result in undamaged parts. Or at least minimally-damaged/marked.

    BTW: By far, the best penetrant is a mix of ATF and Acetone [lacquer thinner]: 50/50 mix, costs a fraction of the price of Kroil, even though I love Kroil !

    A rather scientific study was done by a car-club, using a batch of identically-rusted fasteners. Then using a torque wrench to record the 'breaking-free' torque needed. I was impressed by the careful attention to multiple tests to eliminate a random error in the test.
    Dry, no penetrant took 500ft-lbs to break-free the fastener [must have been a large bolt/nut?]
    PB-Blaster, and a few other common penetrants got the break-free torque down to ~200ft-lbs.
    Liquid Wrench and Kroil both got the break-free torque down to around 100ft-lbs
    But the 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone got the break-free torque down to 50ft-lbs.

    I use this 50/50 mix in a hand-held, air-pressurized squirt-can as well as many 'thumb-pump' oilers. It works great, and doesn't cost $4for an aerosol can.

    I've been watching this thread, I'm looking forward to your next bit of progress.

    DV

  5. #45
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    Default Finally an update!

    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    jlkunka:

    BTW: By far, the best penetrant is a mix of ATF and Acetone [lacquer thinner]: 50/50 mix, costs a fraction of the price of Kroil, even though I love Kroil !

    DV
    Kroil sends me a turkey every year for the amount I buy... I've heard of and used the acetone/AFT mix in engine cylinders in efforts to free up stuck rings. An air blast through the spark plug hole makes a fog that coats everything (including you).

    As for the lathe, progress is progress, which means slow and steady. Here's a video with some preliminary highlights. YouTube Check out my channel Engineers Workshop for updates and other projects. YouTube

  6. #46
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    Default Parts Reconditioning

    Cleaned up the 16" chuck, which took some doing to get the jaws unstuck.
    20181003_200746.jpg
    Had the top surface of the compound kiss ground until it cleaned up (only had to take .010").
    20181016_145120.jpg
    An in-process shot of the tailstock base, my first ever bodywork. Good thing I've been working wood for 30 years, so I know how to make a surface smooth...
    20181021_205330.jpg
    Last edited by jlkunka; 06-26-2019 at 03:51 PM.

  7. #47
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    Default Lathe repair project with Steve Summers

    I worked a deal with Steve Summers to repair my broken quick change shift lever. Talk about a pain to remove! The only way to grip a smooth shaft with a continuous keyway was to get two-piece non marring clamp collars to create a shoulder to lever against. When the shaft moved (carrying the center bearing with it), I think a piece of rubber hose and a sturdy hose clamp would have worked just as well. It really didn't take much force to get it sliding.
    We plan on machining a duplicate threaded boss in steel and brazing it to the cast iron after repairing the missing chunk off the lever. There's enough of the original .507" hole to orient and pick up the location. Making a new plunger and knurled handle will be one of my first lathe projects, but the lathe is pretty much inoperable without the lever.
    Steve will probably feature it on a video and I'll post a quick one describing the strategy. Pics coming soon...

  8. #48
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    Default Repairing some parts

    Here's what I'm sending to Steve Summers to be repaired. I think he'll feature it on an upcoming video but no promises. The broken quick change lever is a real show stopper for getting the lathe operable. With it repaired, I can make the few handwheels and knobs I need to complete the lathe.

    I thought the taper attachment's draw rod was lost in the weeds, but I was going through the pile of parts in the barn and miraculously found the broken shaft. When I loaded everything up I must not have known what I was looking at! With the bed clamp John Oder gave me the lathe can turn tapers once again!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190818_204918.jpg   20190816_191214.jpg  

  9. #49
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    Got the ring nuts that go on the draw rod? There are four - a pair chuck end of bed clamp bracket and a pair tail end of bracket

    Have the ball bearing T/A? Mine was full of stuck bearings.

    the lathe can turn tapers once again!

  10. #50
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    Default Good to hear from you again John!

    Got the ring nuts that go on the draw rod? There are four - a pair chuck end of bed clamp bracket and a pair tail end of bracket YES! All frozen in place, but heat and Kroil got them moving. Good thing they were hard, I didn't have a proper spanner and carefully used a wrench.

    Have the ball bearing T/A? Mine was full of stuck bearings. Yes the TA is ball bearing. All my bearings are crap too, so I'm slowly ordering new ones as I can afford to. I'm missing the sheet metal covers over the slide, will have to make some to fit the mounting holes.

    There is a threaded pin that shifts a clutch element in the quick change gearbox that is badly worn (picture attached). It rides in a 3/8" groove. No problem to duplicate, but I don't think it can come out except be removing the entire shaft & bearings, as the casting doesn't have enough clearance above to unscrew it. I could just turn it 90 degrees and let it ride on the unworn sections, but that will probably bother me that I didn't replace it while I had the opportunity.

    Link to the video is here: YouTube
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails detail.jpg  

  11. #51
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    Still have the "glass window" in end of TA? Mine went missing at some point in the dim past. The glass is helpful in that I suppose it did some magnification and also possessed an index line. I just leave a tiny set of ID spring calipers laying in the hole for the "glass" set to center line distance to help me see where the index line used to be

  12. #52
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    Yes, but it's kind of yellowish, so I thought it was plastic. I'm being careful with the cleaning and solvents not to harm it.

  13. #53
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    Default T/A Glass

    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    Still have the "glass window" in end of TA? Mine went missing at some point in the dim past. The glass is helpful in that I suppose it did some magnification and also possessed an index line. I just leave a tiny set of ID spring calipers laying in the hole for the "glass" set to center line distance to help me see where the index line used to be
    See pics attached
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190826_211607.jpg   20190826_211548.jpg  


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