16"? Monarch lathe near Richmond, VA - $150 - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    About the spacers, a little Kroil and a few "Love Taps" with a brass hammer and they should work off by hand (mine did), once they start to loosen up they'll come right off.
    Watch that Cross slide, it's more than a handful and not even close to being balanced, don't let that puppy sneak up on you.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joeman77 View Post
    About the spacers, a little Kroil and a few "Love Taps" with a brass hammer and they should work off by hand (mine did), once they start to loosen up they'll come right off.
    Watch that Cross slide, it's more than a handful and not even close to being balanced, don't let that puppy sneak up on you.
    I've shown the lathe a lot of "love" lately! The collars are swimming in Kroil but didn't budge with the initial round of bludgeoning.

    I will be cautions on the cross slide. I could tell by how much force it took just to slide it that's got some mass to it..

  3. #43
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    Default Spacers are off!

    Quote Originally Posted by jlkunka View Post
    I've shown the lathe a lot of "love" lately! The collars are swimming in Kroil but didn't budge with the initial round of bludgeoning.
    So, I got the spindle spacers off yesterday. Put a sharp putty knife at the split between them and a few light taps separated them. They then pulled off easily. Turns out it was just oily goo cementing them together, combined with zero play to the shaft and two woodruff keys keeping them from turning.

    So instead of two locking collars with spanner holes,this lathe has two blank spacers with two woodruff keys 180 degrees apart to keep them from turning, and one outer threaded locknut with a spanner hole and a setscrew. Will post some pics once I clean them off.

  4. #44
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    jlkunka: Congratulations on picking up this lathe! Nice to see it rescued.
    Regarding your removal of those sleeve-spacers:
    I've had a lot of luck with using heat on sleeves or spacers like you just removed.
    The combination of softening the semi-rigid dried grease, and the slight increase in diameter in the spacer from applied heat, often will do the job.
    Also: heat followed by application of your favorite penetrant works great: as the part cools, the penetrant is drawn into the slight gap between the sleeve and shaft.
    I do not use an oxy-acetylene torch ! I prefer either a Mapp or Propane torch, or a heat gun, or an induction heater. The 'blue-tip wrench' can be a bit too-much concentrated heat, and do some damage. Of course, if you are aware of that, and are careful, the 'blue-tip' wrench is a wonderful tool, or maybe I should say, a necessary tool at times.
    I often feel like a 'hack' when i have to resort to using the torch, but the right tool for the job, properly used, will result in undamaged parts. Or at least minimally-damaged/marked.

    BTW: By far, the best penetrant is a mix of ATF and Acetone [lacquer thinner]: 50/50 mix, costs a fraction of the price of Kroil, even though I love Kroil !

    A rather scientific study was done by a car-club, using a batch of identically-rusted fasteners. Then using a torque wrench to record the 'breaking-free' torque needed. I was impressed by the careful attention to multiple tests to eliminate a random error in the test.
    Dry, no penetrant took 500ft-lbs to break-free the fastener [must have been a large bolt/nut?]
    PB-Blaster, and a few other common penetrants got the break-free torque down to ~200ft-lbs.
    Liquid Wrench and Kroil both got the break-free torque down to around 100ft-lbs
    But the 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone got the break-free torque down to 50ft-lbs.

    I use this 50/50 mix in a hand-held, air-pressurized squirt-can as well as many 'thumb-pump' oilers. It works great, and doesn't cost $4for an aerosol can.

    I've been watching this thread, I'm looking forward to your next bit of progress.

    DV


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