1939 10ee Bijur pump filter housing
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  1. #1
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    Default 1939 10ee Bijur pump filter housing

    Good evening all

    Iíve finally got paint on my apron, #7158 from 1939. Not going to win any awards, but thatís not the point. I will post photos once it is back together.

    But to get to that point, I need to remedy the Bijur pump situation. It is working, I tested it before disassembly, But before assembly I need to repair the filter housing. It must have had condensation water in the sump casting and the bottom of the steel housing rotted away. You can see in the attached photos.

    Does anyone have any clever ideas, how to repair the housing? I have a perfect brass scrap, and could turn something, but if thereís a better way Iím all ears!

    And another thing... does anyone know what order the filter screens should be installed?

    Thanks folks
    I greatly appreciate the dedication of the members of this site

    JP
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 9dc9bb18-fb56-4f94-a92e-c999944f1a47.jpg   eb404712-2e44-4259-955e-dac009e63e95.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by JPD View Post
    but if there’s a better way I’m all ears!

    JP
    I’d at least call Monarch and inquire if the parts are available and get a quote. Helps keep them around to buy some parts from them. I just bought belts and a few other parts from them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    I’d at least call Monarch and inquire if the parts are available and get a quote. Helps keep them around to buy some parts from them. I just bought belts and a few other parts from them.
    Thanks Dinotom,
    I tried monarch, they only have the filter and screens. I will call Bijur today and see if they have any suggestions.

    JP

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    Do you mind if I ask the diameter and thickness of the new filter? I just placed an order to Monarch and forgot to order the filter kit so I am considering making my own.

    Thanks and good luck.

    -Marco

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    This is from the round dial manual. Check on Ebay for the filter replace kits. Some of the auctions in the past showed an instruction page in the kits.

    When I reassembled my pump I used 1/8 inch F26 felt from McMaster to make the filter. Worked quite well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails screen-shot-2020-01-10-10.21.46-am.jpg  

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    You can repair that filter housing. I'd use a piece of copper pipe used for house plumbing. Cut a narrow piece like 1/4" wide, about the depth of your housing. In order to fit it to the housing, Cut the copper loop in one spot then open up the diameter until if fits over the outside of the steel housing.
    I think if you use a 3/4" or 1" diameter copper, you can have around 3/4 coverage of the patch around the outside of the housing..
    Then carefully clean and tin the housing, fit the cleaned and fluxed ring in place and sweat-solder it in place.
    Use a hammer and a dull chisel to make an ear or tab like the rest of the housing has to retain the snap-wire retainer ring.
    Aslong as the back and side of the filter is encoded, the filtering will still be good, the Vactra still has to come through the felt and screens.

    You could use steel, but it's not as easy to cut and bend as copper pipe.

    DualValve

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    You could use steel, but it's not as easy to cut and bend as copper pipe.
    I wouldn't even bother trying to bend it, I'd just turn it. Looks like maybe a 30 minute part if you only bother to match the 2 diameters that matter and the length between them.

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    Default Help on the way

    Thanks guys for the useful suggestions. I never heard back from Bijur re the replacement filter housing, but they did say it was not a retail item, so not sure if I would be able to buy one. I did buy a new old stock pump similar to the old one, and the housings look identical, so I will just turn off the donor housing and marry it to the old pump. Should have time over the weekend to get at it, will post photos when finished. I feel very lucky that so far this is the only major part that has been beyond repair (and the main spindle shifter fork, which I can harvest from a donor headstock)

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    Please post some photos of the lathe. I have a 1940 sundstrand drive lathe, so they should be very similar. Does your lathe have a collet rack inside the base? 1 or 2 layers? Who was the original purchaser of your lathe?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    Please post some photos of the lathe. I have a 1940 sundstrand drive lathe, so they should be very similar. Does your lathe have a collet rack inside the base? 1 or 2 layers? Who was the original purchaser of your lathe?
    Rimcanyon,
    Im still working out how to properly post photos that aren’t thumbnails, so I’ll post overall pics when I can. Unfortunately no collet rack in the base. It was fairly spartan when I got it, just a 3 jaw, 5c nose, taper attachment (no rod or clamp, so if one shows up I’d be grateful), and a 5 gallon bucket of leaves and acorns inside.

    I was told, but with no documentation, that it came from Amtrak, and there is also some sort of artillery logo stenciled on the base. A google search yielded no match among artillery logos.

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    Default Finished

    Hello all
    Finished the filter housing transplant. Bought a NOS Bijur pump off eBay and turned off the donor housing. The ID of the donor was .750, and the OD of my hex pump cylinder was same, so it barely covers the hex but I am satisfied. Three punches and itís on pretty good. Thanks for all the advice!

    890c8f4f-7b52-4898-ba0a-04f6bd60bbf4.jpg950d4e19-6e23-4c06-84a1-f5993b75b34c.jpg

    Now has anyone successfully rebuilt the piston? Me moves oil but I would be open to renew the piston and lap the cylinder... when I have time.

    JP

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    Quote Originally Posted by JPD View Post
    Hello all
    Finished the filter housing transplant. Bought a NOS Bijur pump off eBay and turned off the donor housing. The ID of the donor was .750, and the OD of my hex pump cylinder was same, so it barely covers the hex but I am satisfied. Three punches and it’s on pretty good. Thanks for all the advice!

    890c8f4f-7b52-4898-ba0a-04f6bd60bbf4.jpg950d4e19-6e23-4c06-84a1-f5993b75b34c.jpg

    Now has anyone successfully rebuilt the piston? Me moves oil but I would be open to renew the piston and lap the cylinder... when I have time.

    JP
    good luck with that! Post pictures, that wold be interesting to see...

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    I was surprised at how loose the fit between the pump rod and the bore on mine was, but it put out over 60 PSI when I tested it, so I called it good. Per Scott at Monarch, you only need about 15 PSI at the apron manifold to do the job.

    Cal

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    Quote Originally Posted by JPD View Post
    Rimcanyon,
    Im still working out how to properly post photos that aren’t thumbnails, so I’ll post overall pics when I can. Unfortunately no collet rack in the base. It was fairly spartan when I got it, just a 3 jaw, 5c nose, taper attachment (no rod or clamp, so if one shows up I’d be grateful), and a 5 gallon bucket of leaves and acorns inside.

    I was told, but with no documentation, that it came from Amtrak, and there is also some sort of artillery logo stenciled on the base. A google search yielded no match among artillery logos.
    I owned a round dial that had the artillery logo also, but it was stamped into the bed. It looked like a pair of crossed canon barrels. If you call Monarch and give them the serial number, they can tell you the original owner.

  18. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPD View Post
    Hello all
    Finished the filter housing transplant. Bought a NOS Bijur pump off eBay and turned off the donor housing. The ID of the donor was .750, and the OD of my hex pump cylinder was same, so it barely covers the hex but I am satisfied. Three punches and itís on pretty good. Thanks for all the advice!

    890c8f4f-7b52-4898-ba0a-04f6bd60bbf4.jpg950d4e19-6e23-4c06-84a1-f5993b75b34c.jpg

    Now has anyone successfully rebuilt the piston? Me moves oil but I would be open to renew the piston and lap the cylinder... when I have time.

    JP
    Nice work. I had my pump apart a couple of weeks ago to clean it and replace the filter, and I noticed that the piston is not a tight fit in the cylinder. The oil is heavy enough that it does not need to be. The only part on mine that was worn was the bronze arm that runs on the apron hand wheel shaft. About .1" of wear had occurred at that spot, which also translates to less piston travel. I brazed the tip of the arm with some silicon bronze rod and restored the original geometry. However, it was also quite clear that the pump is not designed to be a high volume or high pressure pump. The piston only pumps on the return stroke, and the spring is what drives the pumping action. I did some hand pumping with the pump sitting in a container of Vactra 2, and noticed that the pump often had not completed the pumping stroke by the time the piston was being retracted, it is quite slow to pump due to the weak spring, the viscosity of the oil and the head of the lube system. After I reassembled everything and reconnected the saddle oil lines (which had been flushed with solvent) and the manifold with metering valves that were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner with a heated bath of undiluted pine sol, it took about 15 minutes of slowly running the carriage up and down before the system was primed. All lines had a very good flow at that point and there was a good film of oil on the bed ways, although the cross slide lube points and the hand wheel lube point seemed to be over-doing it, maybe because they are all open currently and there was no resistance to flow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JPD View Post
    taper attachment (no rod or clamp, so if one shows up Iíd be grateful),
    PM member vettebob was making new clamps as aluminium castings, available finish machined and painted, or raw.

    He also made rods and nuts. I ordered both. They were a perfect drop-in fit to the TA on my '44 Round-dial. My '42 has no TA, or I'd have done that one as well.

    and a 5 gallon bucket of leaves and acorns inside.
    Cutting down all but one of my over-age-in-grade towering oak trees as their roots attacked the home cut that same sort of accumulation under the hood of the motorcars accordingly. One Oak left to go, and the tree rats will have to take their chances elsewhere.

    An "artillery" logo would be an interesting find. If even that is what it is.

    Navy anchor was used for lots of things - I have it on some War Two K&T goods.

    AFAIK, Army ground forces used no markings beyond a contract code on the data plate.

    I'd have otherwise expected the Ordnance Corps symbol - a flaming mortar-bomb as resembles those Old Skewl kerosene fueled highway work zone markers.


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