1939 10EE New to me lathe, a journey. - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Looks like my Sundstrand drive was replaced with a more modern one. This appeared to have been done when it was still owned by Coleman. Not sure when yet when it was made. Is a model 15 drive, which there seems to be a lot more documentation on.
    I did change the filter, which had its challenges in finding. I also changed the fluid. The old fluid look like egg yolk/orange juice in color.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBJK View Post
    Looks like my Sundstrand drive was replaced with a more modern one. This appeared to have been done when it was still owned by Coleman. Not sure when yet when it was made. Is a model 15 drive, which there seems to be a lot more documentation on.
    I did change the filter, which had its challenges in finding. I also changed the fluid. The old fluid look like egg yolk/orange juice in color.
    Pictures of the data plate, please. Is this a drive that is still being made?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBJK View Post
    Looks like my Sundstrand drive was replaced with a more modern one. This appeared to have been done when it was still owned by Coleman. Not sure when yet when it was made. Is a model 15 drive, which there seems to be a lot more documentation on.
    Wonderful "find", that "Model 15", thanks!

    That could open the door to an easier renewal for others!

    Sundstrand (Rockford) went into United Technologies, ages ago. Actuators on aircraft, warships, and lots of similar critical high-dollar stuff

    Their hyraulic drive bizness was sold out.

    Last seen under the name "Sundstrand Sauer Danfoss" - your Model 15 became theirs to support. Whether they also re-engineered it or just kept-on with formerly Sundstrand tooling not yet known.

    But some are on eBay at the present hour.

    Still looking to see if NEW ones are still being made, but it would be tough.
    AFAIK the common ones in groundskeeping ag and construction are NOW made cheaply in Asia?

    Even so, it cuts AT LEAST FIFTY YEARS off any "orphaned" status GAP!

    More if I can find ... Ok there is a LOT more.

    Higher volume, more adopters than we knew!!! Here's where I bail-out.. other fish to electrocute:

    https://assets.danfoss.com/documents...7en-000101.pdf

    https://www.semhidrolik.com.tr/asset.../15-Serisi.pdf

    Sundstrand Sauer Danfoss Series 15 Pump and Motor - YouTube

    Sundstrand 15 Series Hydrostatic Motor Rrepaired – Hydrostatic Transmission Service, LLC

    Sundstrand Series 15 Inline Pump/Motor Rebuild - GTtalk

    https://hydraulicpartsstore.us/store...oducts_id/3771

    https://www.mytractorforum.com/threa...blems.1105802/

    So here we are... the "Super-precision lathe".. that is first cousin..

    ...to either of an ignorant gardening tractor.. or an Old Skewl human-operated elevator.

    Go figure the NEXT come-down in status is that we discover a 10EE can use the same damned class of ignorant electricity....as a Toto "Washlet" Japanese "bum and not-only" powered auto-washer TOILET (seat)?

    Mind .. not that Toto is racist. Not JUST Japanese bottoms!! A Toto is egalitarian! It will wash and dry ANY ass "or wotever" ..as sits on it!

    Even if one has no ass.. or "wotever" ?

    How's THAT for unbiased!!!

    A Toto even takes pity on 10EE serfs who have lost their ass on rebuild spend and tooling!

    https://washlet.totousa.com/view-all-products

    Guess I need to order two or three of them, then?

    Wonder if they have a Dee Cee model?

    "Stick and DRY?"

    "Rectumdried?"

    They wouldn't blow magic smoke up my arse, would they?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Took a while with the side needs to tend to, but it's only 2020 that thread ended - and with we chickn's understanding you were back up and making chips with it.

    Was that the case, and if so, how has it performed for you since then?
    Well unfortunately I had to sell it last summer as I was losing the space I was renting.
    I did contact the new owner and he’s been using it with favorable satisfaction. He uses it almost every day. Top speed capped out around 1800rpm which is all I got out of it when I completed the rebuild. I was really stoked when I finally got it working but bummed I had to sell it. Funny thing is I was re powering a White MTD garden tractor at the time and was wondering sbout turf equipment hydraulic pump options but didn’t pursue.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by plumberpieco View Post
    Well unfortunately I had to sell it last summer as I was losing the space I was renting.
    I did contact the new owner and he’s been using it with favorable satisfaction. He uses it almost every day. Top speed capped out around 1800rpm which is all I got out of it when I completed the rebuild. I was really stoked when I finally got it working but bummed I had to sell it. Funny thing is I was re powering a White MTD garden tractor at the time and was wondering sbout turf equipment hydraulic pump options but didn’t pursue.
    I had been running, personally, or "around" construction goods that used hydraulic drives for ages, knew there was some commonality.

    But then again? Few are much less than 15 HP. Most are 20 HP or so even in small goods like mini-Bobcats, Toro Dingo sizes, micro-trackhoes, small farm tractors, even riding mowers... etc.

    So it was a surprise that a Sundstrand "heir" still built a suitable unit that seems to be near-as-dammit a "drop-in" for the 1939 OEM!

    VALUABLE INFO in this thread!

    No NEED to convert to EITHER of a(nother) DC drive OR a VFD. Not-even if a Sundstrand-drive base-casting is EMPTY.

    So ANY 10EE that still has life in its bed and spindle-bearings CAN be re-powered to OEM or near-as-dammit.

    Regardless.

    And beds can be reground.
    And bearings can be replaced.

  6. #26
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    Ive been kinda chugging away at it. I wanted to keep the original 1939 3hp/ 3Ph motor. However, to get the RPM I want, I messed around with changing the pulleys to get said RPM. I could not get the speed I wanted without over amping the motor. I could have spent more time & probably thrown another Spare 3 hp motor on it. I would have had to probably drive the frequency to about 120 hz.

    To be clear, I just want to get my spindle speed back up to the stock 2500 max. When they put this Sundstrand retrofit on, they didn’t to the “best” job doing it. Certainly not the way I would have done it, but hey I’m dealing with what I have without having to change a shit ton of stuff. I bought a single phase 5hp Baldor motor to drive it. I certainly didn’t want to do that, but I just want to get it running & get my garage back in relative order. I probably could have waited around to get another 3 phase motor & transformer. I happen to be fortunate that I tend to come across that stuff from time to time. At work I deal with typically motors & drives that are 350hp to 2500hp.

    I’ll post some pics tomorrow

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBJK View Post
    Ive been kinda chugging away at it. I wanted to keep the original 1939 3hp/ 3Ph motor. However, to get the RPM I want, I messed around with changing the pulleys to get said RPM. I could not get the speed I wanted without over amping the motor. I could have spent more time & probably thrown another Spare 3 hp motor on it. I would have had to probably drive the frequency to about 120 hz.

    To be clear, I just want to get my spindle speed back up to the stock 2500 max. When they put this Sundstrand retrofit on, they didn’t to the “best” job doing it. Certainly not the way I would have done it, but hey I’m dealing with what I have without having to change a shit ton of stuff. I bought a single phase 5hp Baldor motor to drive it. I certainly didn’t want to do that, but I just want to get it running & get my garage back in relative order. I probably could have waited around to get another 3 phase motor & transformer. I happen to be fortunate that I tend to come across that stuff from time to time. At work I deal with typically motors & drives that are 350hp to 2500hp.

    I’ll post some pics tomorrow
    Sundstrand drive is probably about as "don't-care" whether the primary input motor is 3-P or 1-P as it is ever going to GET. More-so even than a Reeves or PIV-Werner-Reimers.. so I'd JF leave it so.

    It won't draw any more than it NEEDS out of the 5 HP, so it isn't over-powered. AFAIK the juicer you are using is rated for waay more than 5HP anyway.

    Most of them out in the open-air are running behind Mogas or Diesel IC engine input and smoothing a low-piston-count, not V-16, recip output pulses well-enough, after all!

    Pulley ratio change should give you the RPM.

    The one on the spindle is a relative PITA to fab, but you may not need to do it at all if you have space for a larger one on the input shaft end.

    The routing of the belts changes, yet they still have to clear all the goods they have to slither in between. That can be managed with extra reverse-curve guidance idlers if need be.

    Belt life only suffers a small amount. "Serpentine" belt not much atall if you choose to "go there". Cheap enough and DIY'able. It is the Gilmers, Pirelli's and such that need a DH used to cut a de-facto "gear wheel" for a "pulley".

    Part of why they love serpentine where overall path is screaming insane under a motorcar's bonnet.

  8. #28
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    Finally been able to find time to pu up some pictures & more details. I got things cleaned up for the most part. I got the spindle up to my 2500 rpm range I wanted which is great. I still need to kinda work with some of the finer adjustments of the speed/neutral postion. Also I’m going to have to come up with some sort of actuator to release the tension on the belts from the hydraulic motor to the spindle pulley. Even in the Neutral position, it’s difficult to turn the spindle by hand to either put a new chuck on or say dial in a 4 jaw. I took out the original starter, made a back plate to mount all my controls to. I’m not throwing the old one away either. I went with an oversized Eaton contactor, also I decided to make the start controls low voltage to make it slightly safer. I chose a transformer with a built in circuit breaker should something happen in the starting switch, I dont have to worry about changing a fuse or replace it a transformer. I put all new SO cords & twist lock plugs on them.

    3476af25-ccf1-48d2-ae97-f7daf64ebfda.jpg

    c5befffd-b3a2-4889-b5c9-f8fd9f38dc9c.jpg

    3620d0f9-8eae-4cf0-9d3b-99f4c05186d5.jpg

    ac460b2e-f88f-4957-846e-2d4d341ad638.jpg

    02098503-b111-4dd5-8913-c61e81c0af4d.jpg

    Looks like you can only post 5 pictures per post. So on to the next one.

  9. #29
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    25a3d670-5b08-4ef3-ab84-14034cddc58b.jpg
    5f57da9e-0c69-4616-a19c-509e2948188e.jpg
    f023fb86-ad27-4bc3-a49b-8ac8fb6fcd4f.jpg
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    bcf584d6-a3af-4d41-b352-c002a0880c3f.jpg

  10. #30
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    You need to change the file extension form ".jpeg" to ".jpg" before you upload them. If you're using Windows, you can use File Explorer to edit the file name and change the extension.

    Cal

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    You need to change the file extension form ".jpeg" to ".jpg" before you upload them. If you're using Windows, you can use File Explorer to edit the file name and change the extension.
    If not Windows, simply us the shell's "move" command:

    mv filename1.jpeg filename1.jpg

    Actually, we don't really even type that.

    Just "mv", one copy swipe, two paste with third button, and backspace to remove the "e" from te first paste..


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