1942 Monarch CK12 restoration

This is my first post on the PM forums. I am currently restoring my 1942 Monarch CK12. Mechanically its in good shape, paint was peeling and getting kind of dirty. A good friend of mine and fellow machinist passed away a few years ago so I bought the lathe from his family. I was just going to repaint it but I decided to rebuild it. I didnt disassemble the headstock but everything else is apart. One thing I am missing is the clamp for the taper attachment. It goes on the end of the rod, clamps to the bed. I planned on making my own, good project for my sons to make on the mill. I dont figure that I will find one anywhere so Im hoping someone could take a few good pics of theirs and give me some basic dimensions. I want to make it look somewhat original. Im not sure how to post pics yet, but will get some posted when I do. I contacted Monarch and they said my machine was sold to Genesee Tool Company of Fenton, Michigan in 1942.

One item I think may be common to most old Monarchs is the apron oiling system. Mine was completely plugged. Wound up replacing all the metering units and flushing all the lines. The distributor under the saddle was the most difficult as there is little room to work and the copper lines are stiff. The copper lines are non-standard so save what you have or order new when you order the metering units. Be aware that the metering units are not all the same, note the number on each and make sure you replace them with the same number.

My machine was built in the 1944.

Tom

Here are some images of a Taper Attachment Bed Clamp.
You can measure your bed to rod, and make a functional one from hot-rolled 1/4"c2" steel stock

Thanks so much. I need to duplicate one of these for my CY.

Hi Will, please be aware that the images are of a TA Bed-Clamp on a 10ee.
The size, measurements etc for your CK will almost for sure be much larger. So don't use my dimensions shown !

I was looking at a 16" Monarch with a TA. And noted that the appearance of the bed-clamp was identical to the one on my 10ee. But the clamp was HUGE. something like 9-10" long, and at least 3" wide at the clamping end.

It really would not be terribly difficult to fabricate and weld up plain old hot rolled steel bar, use a torch or bandsaw to cut the basic shapes. And a LOT of grinding, but a very close facsimile could be made. And if you wanted to make it look more 'real cosmetically, just use an air-needle scaler, and pepper the top surface of the clamp then paint.. it will look supriisling like cast iron.

DualValve