PLC
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2009
- Location
- Bay Area, CA
Well, I am steadily making progress on the lathe after I get home work. I have most of the interior stripped down to bare metal. Attacking it with wire wheels, both knotted and crimped, stripping wheels, random orbital sander, cabide scraper, methylene chloride, and 80 grit flap discs. The inside of the base has been particularly challenging as the old paint and primer has taken a strong bite into the rough casting. I keep reading the same rebuild threads over and over to keep myself motivated.
I have completed all the sanding and paint removal in the garage. I completed stripping most of the paint from the exterior using methylene chloride, however I have resorted to abrasives on the interior as is too rough for paint stripper/scraper combo. All the chemical stripping was completed with good ventilation (Intake fan at the man door entry to the garage, and exhaust at the garage apron).
Before moving to abrasives, I built a “tent” around the lathe with PVC and 6 mil visqueen to protect my other equipment from the cloud of cast iron dust I was about to create. One issue with this approach - it seems that start sweating at the thought of entering the tent. Being that there is limited air flow and I am the equivalent to a pile of damp, salty towels, the oxidation of the surface I have just sanded down to bare metal is greatly accelerated.
I am very new to the automotive painting world, but I was planning on using body filler (Evercoat Rage Xtreme) applied directly to the bare metal. The TDS for the filler says that it should NOT be used over phosphoric acid, which I was planning to use as rust preventative. My current plan is to lightly hand sand with 36 grit to remove the flash rust, tack off, clean with mineral spirits, and immediately add filler to the bare metal. I would work my way around the lathe over the course of several nights after work. Does this sound like a good plan? I really don’t want to have rust issues under the body filler.
I am also using BM Super Spec HP Aklyd Enamel and one gallon of the BM Super Spec HP Primer (P06). I was thinking that I could prime first (as the primer is not self-etching) and then put body filler over the primer, but I am not sure if I will run into adhesion issues. Evercoat recommends bare metal or epoxy primer as substrate for the Rage filler.
Also, does anyone have experience using the Super Spec HP Primer over the filler?
Thanks for all the help already. These forums have been invaluable in both information and motivation. I will try to get some pictures up tonight of my progress thus far.
I hastily created the title forgetting that the term "rebuild" insinuates that I will be regrinding and rescraping. I should have called it reconditioning or simply painting. However, I might build up the saddle with Moglice as bed has very little wear. Less than 0.0005" when measuring from the carriage to the tailstock way. The machine was rebuilt at some point in its life by a now defunct shop in San Leandro, CA. I will post a pic of the badge when I get home later. When I removed the carriage, didn't see any Rulon/Turcite on the ways. I am wondering if they reground the bed, but left the saddle alone. I have yet to check the distance from the leadscrew to the bottom of the saddle. The thing is darn straight though.
I have completed all the sanding and paint removal in the garage. I completed stripping most of the paint from the exterior using methylene chloride, however I have resorted to abrasives on the interior as is too rough for paint stripper/scraper combo. All the chemical stripping was completed with good ventilation (Intake fan at the man door entry to the garage, and exhaust at the garage apron).
Before moving to abrasives, I built a “tent” around the lathe with PVC and 6 mil visqueen to protect my other equipment from the cloud of cast iron dust I was about to create. One issue with this approach - it seems that start sweating at the thought of entering the tent. Being that there is limited air flow and I am the equivalent to a pile of damp, salty towels, the oxidation of the surface I have just sanded down to bare metal is greatly accelerated.
I am very new to the automotive painting world, but I was planning on using body filler (Evercoat Rage Xtreme) applied directly to the bare metal. The TDS for the filler says that it should NOT be used over phosphoric acid, which I was planning to use as rust preventative. My current plan is to lightly hand sand with 36 grit to remove the flash rust, tack off, clean with mineral spirits, and immediately add filler to the bare metal. I would work my way around the lathe over the course of several nights after work. Does this sound like a good plan? I really don’t want to have rust issues under the body filler.
I am also using BM Super Spec HP Aklyd Enamel and one gallon of the BM Super Spec HP Primer (P06). I was thinking that I could prime first (as the primer is not self-etching) and then put body filler over the primer, but I am not sure if I will run into adhesion issues. Evercoat recommends bare metal or epoxy primer as substrate for the Rage filler.
Also, does anyone have experience using the Super Spec HP Primer over the filler?
Thanks for all the help already. These forums have been invaluable in both information and motivation. I will try to get some pictures up tonight of my progress thus far.
I hastily created the title forgetting that the term "rebuild" insinuates that I will be regrinding and rescraping. I should have called it reconditioning or simply painting. However, I might build up the saddle with Moglice as bed has very little wear. Less than 0.0005" when measuring from the carriage to the tailstock way. The machine was rebuilt at some point in its life by a now defunct shop in San Leandro, CA. I will post a pic of the badge when I get home later. When I removed the carriage, didn't see any Rulon/Turcite on the ways. I am wondering if they reground the bed, but left the saddle alone. I have yet to check the distance from the leadscrew to the bottom of the saddle. The thing is darn straight though.
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