1948 Square Dial MG Rebuild - Page 6
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  1. #101
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    I will start applying body filler tonight, and I was hoping to get some input for those with more experience. I have both Evercoat Rage Xtreme as well as Evercoat Easy Sand. I am wondering if I should use the Rage Xtreme and then fill the pin holes with the Easy Sand putty, or if I should just try and use the Easy Sand. This is the first time I am attempting body work so I don't have any experience making judgement calls as to the width/depth of the imperfections I am attempting to fill. I am thinking I should probably just use both. Also, do you recommend doing a skim coat over the entire machine, or a more localized application? Thanks in advance.

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    I got started on the body filler last night. I opted just to do a skim coat of Evercoat Rage and start blocking down. I will post some more progress pics after I am further along.

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    I am still in the beginning stages of applying body filler and I am working to level it down. I have used only Durablock and elbow grease at this point, and most areas are still pretty rough. I definitely need to work on my application skills, there are several areas that were applied too thick, and are a bit a of a chore to knock down. Here are some pictures:

    I am feeling pretty confident about leveling the larger flat areas. It is fairly easy to apply the filler evenly as well as differentiate between the highs and lows. I have two cycles on the head stock at this point (two application of filler and twice blocked down). It is getting closer./

    img-1521.jpg

    This next photo shows the body filler approaching the ways. I am thinking about applying more masking tape, adding more filler, and then removing the masking tape before the filler sets up. Any recommendations here would be much appreciated.

    img-1517.jpg

    Here is the front of the base. Again this is starting to straighten out. I will be adding more filler to the lows, and then blocking down again.

    img-1518.jpg

    The corners can be a bit tough to get into. I am using the round Durablock to get in here.

    img-1520.jpg

    Here is a picture of the overall progress.

    img-1522.jpg

  4. #104
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    At some point spray on a coat of flat primer. It will reveal everything that needs filled.
    I filled a Bridgeport a while back and was really dragging until I applied primer.

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  6. #105
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    Black lacquer in a spray can works well also. It dries really rast and sands right off to view the high and low spots.

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    Thanks for the recommendation on the primer. I actually picked a container of the 3M powdered guide coat when I started the project. Right now, the highs and lows are so obvious I don't think I need it. I am burning through to metal on the highs, and I can see the darker tint of the unsanded filler in the lows.

    Daryl, do you remember how you approached filling the areas that near where the carriage rack mounts? I was thinking about masking it off with another layer of tape, adding filler, and then pulling the tape off before the filler sets up.

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    Thats sounds about right. I don't remember the exact details, just alot of bondo, sanding, bondo some more, sanding, spot putty, sanding, coat of surfacer, sanding, maybe another coat, sanding, spot putty again, sanding, final primer coat, sanding, final wet sanding, alot of the sanding was wet, color.

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    Thanks for this. I will have at it some more in the coming days. Side note, I was reading back through some of the old posts in this thread, and realized that I had already asked about the skim coat, and it had been answered back in June. I can't believe that I didn't remember. Embarrassing.

    This was when I was still stripping the paint. I guess I spent too much time with my head up the ol' girl's arse.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PLC View Post
    This was when I was still stripping the paint. I guess I spent too much time with my head up the ol' girl's arse.
    Solvent caused brain fog

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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    Solvent caused brain fog
    I wish I had a good excuse, but I was religiously wearing my respirator during the stripping/grinding process good ventilation as well.

    Also Cal, I wasn't able to clean up those numbers on the base section under the gearbox. It wasn't dirt/grease/grime/swarf, it was just the cast itself. I am afraid I am not going to be able to say definitively what the numbers are. I am thinking about asking Monarch for the part number for the base section the next time I am in touch with them as I haven't found it in any of the literature I have.

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    It is long overdue for an update, but I have been working on filling and leveling the raw iron. I am hoping to get poly primer on in the coming weeks. I will try to get a couple pictures of the process and post them.

    For those of you who have experience with the Evercoat products, specifically FeatherFill G2, I am wondering if I could get away with putting it over the spots that have been sanded back down to bare metal. The TDS states that bare metal areas larger than a 1" radius should be epoxied first. I have some areas of exposed bare metal that are larger.

    I just got off the phone with Evercoat, and the tech support said that there isn't a problem with adhesion and they only say that in the TDS because there isn't any corrosion protection. The lathe, of course won't be in the elements. I don't plan on running coolant, but I would like to have the option.

    Also, I foolishly purchased the FeatherFill G2 when I started the project so I already have it on hand. The alternative is to purchase the Super Build 4:1 or Finish Sand 4:1 which is DTM, and just eat the cost of the FeatherFill. I could also purchase more epoxy, however it is pretty pricey as well, and I like the idea of using the poly primer direct to the cast aluminum covers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PLC View Post
    It is long overdue for an update, but I have been working on filling and leveling the raw iron. I am hoping to get poly primer on in the coming weeks. I will try to get a couple pictures of the process and post them.

    For those of you who have experience with the Evercoat products, specifically FeatherFill G2, I am wondering if I could get away with putting it over the spots that have been sanded back down to bare metal. The TDS states that bare metal areas larger than a 1" radius should be epoxied first. I have some areas of exposed bare metal that are larger.

    I just got off the phone with Evercoat, and the tech support said that there isn't a problem with adhesion and they only say that in the TDS because there isn't any corrosion protection. The lathe, of course won't be in the elements. I don't plan on running coolant, but I would like to have the option.

    Also, I foolishly purchased the FeatherFill G2 when I started the project so I already have it on hand. The alternative is to purchase the Super Build 4:1 or Finish Sand 4:1 which is DTM, and just eat the cost of the FeatherFill. I could also purchase more epoxy, however it is pretty pricey as well, and I like the idea of using the poly primer direct to the cast aluminum covers.
    It'll be fine over the bare metal. It was standard practice before the epoxy was popular/invented. Go for it and don't worry about it.

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    I used Evercoat Rage directly on bare cast iron and the remains of the original filler. No problems with adhesion. Great product.

    Cal

  17. #114
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    Excellent. Thank you!

  18. #115
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    Hey Daryl, just curious, was your HF purple gun coated oil and thread sealant around the fluid nozzle/air cap?

  19. #116
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    Hi guys, just a quick update. Progress has been pretty slow, however consistent. I have been spending my weekends leveling out the covers and this past weekend, I was able to get my first coat of poly primer down. My plan is to sand this down, and re-coat/sand, and hopefully top coat after that.

    img_20190317_172819.jpg

    img_20190317_172738.jpg

    img_20190317_172841.jpg

    This is a picture after media blasting. I had to weld/repair the crack near the top of the casting.

    img_20190121_190453.jpg
    Last edited by PLC; 03-19-2019 at 03:35 PM.

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  21. #117
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    Fantastic job there PLC!! Keep it up, looks great. Monarch will want this for their showroom when you're done.

  22. #118
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    I see you asked a question that I never answered. I don't remember any issues like that with the HF gun. I recently converted to the disposable Dekups( I love it) and had to make an adapter for that gun as I could never figured out what would fit. It is probably too late as you are well on your way, but for other folks going down this path, here is some procedures that have really worked well for me over the years. I always shoot a epoxy primer coat (usually DP-40) over the sanded sound original paint or bare metal. I have found on old machines that they usually have been painted over a zillion times with whatever, (porch paint ,latex)or so oil soaked, that they have to be stripped down to the bare metal anyway. Next I do my bondo ( Rage is great) over the epoxy primer. I have redone old repairs (not mine) and have found significant rust under bondo when applied over bare metal. Ok. get that filler down to good shape and then shoot (a new product for me) SlickSand over the whole thing. This is thick shoot-able filler that really works for rough castings and it seems to flow out well, which means less sanding and spot putty. Then shoot another coat of DP-40 as a final sealer and then do the color. And if you are really styling, shoot some clear over that...yowza!
    Last edited by daryl bane; 03-20-2019 at 03:09 PM.

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  24. #119
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    Zap921, thank you for the complement. I have a new appreciation for the guys/gals that do this work. It is very labor intensive and I am still learning a lot, but I am happy with how things are going.

    Daryl, no worries, I was just curious. I ended up cleaning all the junk out of the gun before shooting. Thanks for the complete run down of steps. I have followed them and I like the direction the project is taking. I am learning a lot which was part of the motivation to take on the project. Thanks for all the help and inspiration.

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  26. #120
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    I finished putting a couple coats of BM Super Spec Urethane Alkyd Enamel on the covers yesterday. There is some orange peel, but I think it is an acceptable finish. I am not sure if this paint can be wet sanded as an auto body paint would?

    Since the project started I have steadily raised the bar in terms of the rebuild standard. Some of the products were purchased early on, and the apron was rebuilt and painted 2 years ago. At this point, I am committed to continue using the same paint, even though a more applicable one might be more consistent with the present standard.

    Here are some pictures I snapped.

    img_20190512_213819.jpg

    img_20190512_214026.jpg

    img_20190512_213956.jpg

    img_20190512_214001.jpg

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