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1950 60 series 14inch info

joebass

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 3, 2005
Location
NY
Going to look at a series 60 tomorrow, the catalog number is 14, its a 16.5" swing by 54" toolroom, has taper attachment,steady rest, and a 4 jaw. It looks different than some of the other 60 series. Ive only used Southbends and my Clausing 5904. Does it look like anything major is wrong from the pictures? Anything specific, I should look for?
 
pictures of lathe
 

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don't have any machine specific knowledge, but asking for us to tell you if there is a problem from the photos is a bit of a stretch, when "most of the worst" on a gear head lathe is gonna be up inside the headstock.

looks pretty good, I mean, have you seen what some post here? stuff with weeds growing up through it, and they ask exactly the same question!


it looks like it's in an operating shop, so you can test under power. huge advantage. even if you aren't familiar with it ask the guy who ran it to run it through all the speeds, power feed, and threading feed, and listen. also, if he has to hold the clutch lever just so while he jiggles a shift lever, well it could be an "adjustment" or something much worse.

throw an indicator on the spindle, I bet the bearings for this baby are not cheap!

ask if you can open the top of the headstock up, and look for broken gear teeth especially if they say , "no we pulled the power last week for the new hoosiwhatsit cnc" when you ask to see it running.


that is the largest dial I've ever seen on the cross feed, wow! maybe someone can fill us in on that?
 
Well, lol. That's not what I meant. I guess I was a little vague. I'm asking if anything looks to be missing or out of the ordinary. I've spent hours searching the last 2 days, It is under power, it's at the old buffalo forge factory, and its still in use. They have a 1940 14WAA also for sale. The guy who runs it will be there and I will have him run it through its paces.
 
well, sounds like you can't go too far wrong, even if you go straight to the recycler..which is what many of us should have done with our iron...
 
well, sounds like you can't go too far wrong, even if you go straight to the recycler..which is what many of us should have done with our iron...

Shame on you for speaking of such attrosity :D.

Anyways the only problem I see is its not in my garage.

If it sounds good while running I'd jump in it. There looks to be a relieving attachment on it(or the provisions for one). I don't totally understand how it works so maybe someone will chiI'me in and explain. That's pretty cool though.

It looks like it had reverse to lead screw on the apron, but I think it has been removed.

I'd offer him $1500
 
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There looks to be a relieving attachment on it(or the provisions for one). I don't totally understand how it works so maybe someone will chime in and explain.

RA is basically a reciprocating compound rest that enables adding RELIEF to rotary cutting tools (mills, end mills, taps, spot facers, counterbores, etc) AFTER such tools are gashed or fluted but before they are heat treated and ground

The MECHANISMS that make this happen have included dedicated change gearing, cams and u-jointed driving shafts - along with the special compound rest

The advanced versions even enable spiral or helical relieving, and the various RA styles have included radial and END (or face) relieving

There have been FRONT mounted RAs and REAR mounted RAs

From that long period of time when all large shops had in house cutting tool making - over night as required, and hardly anybody was making runs to the corner machine shop supply
 
I checked on the lathe earlier in the year and obtained the spec sheet from Monarch. I still have the sheet if you want it, pm me. Your box was full and PM will not let me upload the Spec Sheet for some reason.

The owner was not negotiable on the price when I checked.
 
Well, I went to look at it, it appears to be in pretty nice shape. Some oil leaking on floor by the head stock, and the rear clutch lever isn't original, it is missing the apron leadscrew reverse assembly, but there is a trav-a-dial mounted where it looks like it was, comes with 4 jaw, face plate, dogs, and dog plate.
It's wired 480v now through a step up transformer. The electrician didn't know why and we couldn't dig deep enough to find the motor tag. Coolant pump motor is labeled for 220/440v. Drom68 sent me the original spec sheet and it states main 7 1/2hp motor is dual voltage 220/440v. I only have 240v 3 phase at my shop. What would be involved in changing to lower voltage? Just swapping leads? If I have to get a transformer I may pass.I really want it but it's not a need at this point.
 
Apparently it's not that simple. I emailed Monarch, they said I'd need to change the contactors, which don't exist anymore, so I'd need to retrofit the whole electrical cabinet out. Better to get a transformer. I'm not up on electrical, besides basics, and running circuits from boxes, etc. This is way over my head.
 
I like to use a very sharp tool bit and take a light cut in mid range speeds to see a smooth cut. This since I bought a Carroll Jamieson years back that had a gear chatter that showed up in the surface finish. Yes just by good luck found another gear.
 
Apparently it's not that simple. I emailed Monarch, they said I'd need to change the contactors, which don't exist anymore, so I'd need to retrofit the whole electrical cabinet out. Better to get a transformer. I'm not up on electrical, besides basics, and running circuits from boxes, etc. This is way over my head.

It shouldn't take a whole electrical cabinet retrofit to to get it going on 240 Volt's. The motor starter might be dual voltage and you might be able to just replace the overloads/heaters for the higher amps. Otherwise switching out the starter would be another option. It's pretty simple really. Just thought I'd throw that out there for ya.
 
I appreciate it, and that would be great if I knew what you were talking about! Lol. What gets me is it was shipped as 220/440... Doesn't that mean it should run on either? Why would the guy at monarch say different? There is 110v on it as well (light). I'm really clueless about thisome stuff. Can someone link to a suitable transformer on ebay, so I can use it to give the seller a counter offer?
 
Doesn't that mean it should run on either?

Sure, but only if details are addressed

Don't think of it as an mind boggling assembly, but just understandable components working together

It can all be thrown out and replaced with new, but that is most likely over kill, and you STILL have to go into terminal box on motor and RECONNECT for lower volts.

Start by doing that, then you have item one DONE

IF it happens to be NINE WIRES coming out of motor, a common lash up for low volts is thus: (Your motor maybe be some other lash up plan or total motor wire number)

Line 1 connects to T1 and T7 motor wires
Line 2 connects to T2 and T8 motor wires
Line 3 connects to T3 and T9 motor wires
T4, T5 and T6 motor wires connected to each other and nothing else

The numbering of the motor wires is both key and also up in the air UNTIL you take off any tape or whatever so YOU CAN SEE the identification numbers the motor maker put on those motor wires

We can talk about OTHER components AFTER you show us the motor terminal box situation got done

None of it is anything like magic or rocket science
 








 
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