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1953 Monarch 10EE Project

owensexport

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 15, 2019
Location
Chatsworth, CA
Here is my Monarch 10EE that I purchased last year.
I was finally able to take a 4400 mile road trip to pick it up.
It has obviously spent some time in the weather but we pulled all the covers and it looks pretty good inside.
Photos speak the 1000 words:
IMG_20201023_212933_050.jpg
 
The unit was overhauled by Do-Rite Machinery in 1986.
It was converted to a Allen Bradley drive with a GE Shunt Wound 3HP DC motor.
Everything looks pretty good aside from a little dirty
IMG_20201029_142150.jpg
IMG_20201029_142146.jpg
 
Congratulations... great starting point. After a long hot grueling Florida summer, I'm finally in the last stages of my 43' repower and clean up. The reward of taking a piece of 3" stressproof and turning it into something useful really provided pure joy in the end.
 
Owen
Sound like your lathe is in good shape.
That was quite a road trip. What did you do drive to the east coast ?

Hal
 
Owen
Sound like your lathe is in good shape.
That was quite a road trip. What did you do drive to the east coast ?

Hal

Had to haul a Humvee from Los Angeles to Arkansas, I left the trailer in Arkansas and drove to Atlanta from there. Loaded the lathe in the back of the 2003 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, What a load!!
Picked up the trailer and another vehicle and drove back to LA.
 
Had to haul a Humvee from Los Angeles to Arkansas, I left the trailer in Arkansas and drove to Atlanta from there. Loaded the lathe in the back of the 2003 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, What a load!!
Picked up the trailer and another vehicle and drove back to LA.

The apron ,saddle and crossfeed have an automatic oiling system that has a pump and a bunch of metering valves that are often problematic on older lathes. Your 1986 rebuild may be fine. When you get it running operating the automatic feeds back and forth the full travel distance several times should show oil on all the mating slides.
I read an old thread that gave a procedure for running everything back and forth before each use and basically getting the apron floating on oil before use. Cant find the thread but you get the idea. Lack of oil has destroyed a lot of good machine tools.
 
Here is the post i was looking for. It was written by donie several years ago. Wether you do it every time on start up is up to you. I like the idea of doing so.
In your ten ee it would be a good way to verify oiling is all working.
The post was in a thread called (WE NEED A "10EE FOR DUMMIES" MANUAL). I read it for obvious reasons:D

Here it is.
f
for a few chuckles I will state these,

To help preserve the built in precision of the machine, of course this would only apply to machines in good condition.

When done using the machine, park the carriage 1" from the end all the way to the right.
Reason- on a tight machine the carriage will wring itself to the ways as the oil is squeezed out from sitting.

Starting the machine, later model circulating oil headstock machines "single oil window headstock".
Set the feed to coarse, start the machine in reverse at about 500 to 600 rpms. Let it run for several minutes.
Reason- the headstock bearings pick up more oil in reverse. Setting the gearbox to a coarse feed circulates oil through the gear box, the fast running feed rod pumps oil to the ways in effect unsticking the carriage from the ways by lifting it.
Manually oil and clean the ways before moving the carriage, then move the carriage easy back and forth then it will glide.
Manually move the crosslide the full travel a few times, then engage both the long feed and the cross feed at the same time, and use the apron reverse knob, do that a couple of times. This will fully oil the apron gears and clutches, the clutches will not be sticky.
While doing this, it will be observed the rpms will climb slightly "module tube drive" when the RPMs is stable, the machine is ready, warmed up and lubed. About 15 or so minutes.

Tailstock, best moved by placing the right hand under the base at the back, two fingers from the left hand under the nose, slightly lifting when moving. Moving the tailstock by the hand wheel will cause wear that shows up with the tailstock pointing downward and toward the back of the machine.

Speed knob, module drive machines have less then one turn from near zero to 4000 rpms. Set the speed around 1000rpms "base motor" speed, put a spot of paint at top on the rim of the knob.
Safety factor there, at a glance the set speed will be apparent, also starting at or near base speed is less stressful on the drive easier on the switches ect.

ELSR,
The micro switches in the ELSR bracket can be timed, machine powered down, by hooking an analog ohm meter to either forward or reverse switch, both can be observed on the meter.
The other ELSR basic funtion set up is a bit time consuming, but, its very important that the apron mounted spindle control lever is returned fully to the neutral lock. Otherwise, if the carriage is moved, the lever can fall into foward, unexpectedly starting the machine.

Setting the ELSR for thread cutting.
Move the carriage to the stopping point of the thread, set whatever device DRO, TravAdial ect to zero. With the fork adjusting knob on the apron, move the fork into the dog until the spindle stops.
Now engage the half nuts and let the carriage travel until the machine stops, it will over travel. Move the carriage back twice the overtravel, set the fork again, it should be good.
Any change of threading speed will effect the stopping point.

Things to be aware of,
#1 Any vibration, will make a part held only by a chuck bigger on the outer end.
Belts, adjust for the smoothest running at the speeds being used. There is a fine adjust point of being too tight "the machine rumbles", too loose "the belts slap" both causes #1
Out of balance chucks again #1
The jaws of the chucks must be ground true to the machine, or one would be better of just using a southbend.
If a true shaft with a center, does not line up with the tail center, the jaws need to be ground true.
Never pull a shaft true using the tail center "ever!" fix the problem, or it will damage the machine.
If the machine is in good shape, consider using collet tail stock chucks instead of Jacobs drill chucks.

Adjust the crosslide for the next cut only with the machine running, otherwise the shock of starting will causes the stick-slip of the oil on the ways, the screw and nut pressure to unwind, the crosslide will move forward the part will be over cut.

Manually move the crosslide the full travel a few times, then engage both the long feed and the cross feed at the same time, and use the apron reverse knob, do that a couple of times. This will fully oil the apron gears and clutches, the clutches will

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, I could not read the above post, the font is in white....
I did find the original using the search functions. All good information!

I need to adjust the wiring on the machine, it is currently set for 440v 3 phase and I only have 220V 3 phase in my shop. I found a transformer under the right hand side compartment that looks like it steps down to 220V for the control system. I think with a little rewiring, changing the fuses and rewiring the coolant pump (which I probably wont use) I should be able to power it up.

fortunately I found a set of schematics in the control box that seems to match up with what is in the machine for the basic wiring anyway. Zero information on the AB controls but I need to investigate a little on those.
 
Inside of headstock looks good, no water inside but
there is very little oil in there.

Motor and back gear unit looks perfect

Belts are old but fair shape

IMG_20201029_144758.jpg
IMG_20201029_144912.jpg
IMG_20201029_144805.jpg
 
I repaired the font. I use a high contrast screen.

Those schematics are worth their weight in gold.
Nice lathe
 
Here is the post i was looking for. It was written by donie several years ago. Wether you do it every time on start up is up to you. I like the idea of doing so.
In your ten ee it would be a good way to verify oiling is all working.
The post was in a thread called (ten ee for dummies). I read it for obvious reasons:D

Here it is.
f[h=2][/h]
[FONT=&]
for a few chuckles I will state these,

To help preserve the built in precision of the machine, of course this would only apply to machines in good condition.

When done using the machine, park the carriage 1" from the end all the way to the right.
Reason- on a tight machine the carriage will wring itself to the ways as the oil is squeezed out from sitting.

Starting the machine, later model circulating oil headstock machines "single oil window headstock".
Set the feed to coarse, start the machine in reverse at about 500 to 600 rpms. Let it run for several minutes.
Reason- the headstock bearings pick up more oil in reverse. Setting the gearbox to a coarse feed circulates oil through the gear box, the fast running feed rod pumps oil to the ways in effect unsticking the carriage from the ways by lifting it.
Manually oil and clean the ways before moving the carriage, then move the carriage easy back and forth then it will glide.
Manually move the crosslide the full travel a few times, then engage both the long feed and the cross feed at the same time, and use the apron reverse knob, do that a couple of times. This will fully oil the apron gears and clutches, the clutches will not be sticky.
While doing this, it will be observed the rpms will climb slightly "module tube drive" when the RPMs is stable, the machine is ready, warmed up and lubed. About 15 or so minutes.

Tailstock, best moved by placing the right hand under the base at the back, two fingers from the left hand under the nose, slightly lifting when moving. Moving the tailstock by the hand wheel will cause wear that shows up with the tailstock pointing downward and toward the back of the machine.

Speed knob, module drive machines have less then one turn from near zero to 4000 rpms. Set the speed around 1000rpms "base motor" speed, put a spot of paint at top on the rim of the knob.
Safety factor there, at a glance the set speed will be apparent, also starting at or near base speed is less stressful on the drive easier on the switches ect.

ELSR,
The micro switches in the ELSR bracket can be timed, machine powered down, by hooking an analog ohm meter to either forward or reverse switch, both can be observed on the meter.
The other ELSR basic funtion set up is a bit time consuming, but, its very important that the apron mounted spindle control lever is returned fully to the neutral lock. Otherwise, if the carriage is moved, the lever can fall into foward, unexpectedly starting the machine.

Setting the ELSR for thread cutting.
Move the carriage to the stopping point of the thread, set whatever device DRO, TravAdial ect to zero. With the fork adjusting knob on the apron, move the fork into the dog until the spindle stops.
Now engage the half nuts and let the carriage travel until the machine stops, it will over travel. Move the carriage back twice the overtravel, set the fork again, it should be good.
Any change of threading speed will effect the stopping point.

Things to be aware of,
#1 Any vibration, will make a part held only by a chuck bigger on the outer end.
Belts, adjust for the smoothest running at the speeds being used. There is a fine adjust point of being too tight "the machine rumbles", too loose "the belts slap" both causes #1
Out of balance chucks again #1
The jaws of the chucks must be ground true to the machine, or one would be better of just using a southbend.
If a true shaft with a center, does not line up with the tail center, the jaws need to be ground true.
Never pull a shaft true using the tail center "ever!" fix the problem, or it will damage the machine.
If the machine is in good shape, consider using collet tail stock chucks instead of Jacobs drill chucks.

Adjust the crosslide for the next cut only with the machine running, otherwise the shock of starting will causes the stick-slip of the oil on the ways, the screw and nut pressure to unwind, the crosslide will move forward the part will be over cut.
[/FONT]

Manually move the crosslide the full travel a few times, then engage both the long feed and the cross feed at the same time, and use the apron reverse knob, do that a couple of times. This will fully oil the apron gears and clutches, the clutches will
Thanks for posting.

Hal
 
Edit
Make an overlay and mark with a sharpie. If it works. I first thought that one on ebay was the same . wrong

I got the unit to power up, rewired the transformer and Bingo it starts up.
The feed belt is slipping so I have to mess with that...
Also did not want to run it too long because of no lubrication in the back gear unit and the headstock. Oil coming in Tuesday.

The LH10 powers up and zeros but gives me an error when I move the carriage.
The cross slide display does seem to work correctly.
I will pull apart the connections and hopefully cleaning them will make it work again. If I can get it to work, I will try to find a new overlay or faceplate.
 
Looks like you found yourself and nice lathe, worthy of the haul you had to make.. Good luck!
 








 
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