1956 Monarch 10EE, serial # 41672
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    Default 1956 Monarch 10EE, serial # 41672

    Since I was having the Lodge & Shipley trucked out from Monarch Lathes, I asked Harry if they had any affordable 10EEs, and this is what came out of that.







    The ways were reground in 2011

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    D&L reground my Bridgeport tables, saddles and knees, and did excellent work. That lathe did some travelling, from Redwood City, to Sidney and then back to California. Does it have a motor generator, WIAD or something else?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    D&L reground my Bridgeport tables, saddles and knees, and did excellent work. That lathe did some travelling, from Redwood City, to Sidney and then back to California. Does it have a motor generator, WIAD or something else?
    Yeah, I thought that was funny that it was so close before its round trip journey. :-)
    It was previously owned by Litton Electron Devices.

    Iím thinking since itís 1956, itís probably works in the drawer.
    I havenít opened it up yet.

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    Looks like it has another date under it of 6-12-12. Nice lathe

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    Yeah, I thought that was funny that it was so close before its round trip journey. :-)
    It was previously owned by Litton Electron Devices.

    I’m thinking since it’s 1956, it’s probably works in the drawer.
    I haven’t opened it up yet.
    No need to open.

    TS end hatch is blank for MG, Has fan grilles for WiAd.

    Modulars have big, wide door in front, electrical switches in a line above.

    Then again, if a conversion?

    Most "deep pockets" major contractor/ DoD DC Drive modifications seem to show up on WiaD, (it was the least-powerful as-built) then Module drive (the most powerful, as-built, and also the newest, hence easier to justify the extra spend).

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    Quote Originally Posted by TBJK View Post
    Looks like it has another date under it of 6-12-12. Nice lathe
    Good catch!
    I didnít notice that!

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    No need to open.

    TS end hatch is blank for MG, Has fan grilles for WiAd.
    Thanks!
    Looks like WiAd then:




    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Modulars have big, wide door in front, electrical switches in a line above.

    Then again, if a conversion?

    Most "deep pockets" major contractor/ DoD DC Drive modifications seem to show up on WiaD, (it was the least-powerful as-built) then Module drive (the most powerful, as-built, and also the newest, hence easier to justify the extra spend).
    Iíll open it up over the next few days and take some pics.
    I bought it knowing it would be a project, but shouldnít be too much trouble to get it running.
    The ways look like they are in very good condition. Not much backlash in the cross-slide or compound.
    The tailstock definitely has some backlash, but shouldnít be too hard to address that either.

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    The lathe came with a Royal 5C lever collet closer, but no 5C taper adapter for the spindle nose and the adjustable linkage rod that connects to the lathe isnít there either.




    Anyone have a drawings/measurements for the length on the adjustable link rod?
    Iíll try calling Royal tomorrow

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    Thanks!
    Looks like WiAd then:
    Well it was only two knobs ... and you would also know if it was still "Hollow State" had been modified to Scissio solid-state drop-ins for the gas bottles, had been modified to a third-party DC Drive, or even to a VFD rig?

    Oy! The SUSPENSE!

    I can sleep.

    Can you?


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    Other things Iíll be looking for:

    -5C spindle nose taper adapter for the Royal lever collet closer
    -6 jaw chuck with reversible top jaws
    -steadyrest
    -4 jaw chuck (with reversible top jaws)
    Ö

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    Other things I’ll be looking for:

    -5C spindle nose taper adapter for the Royal lever collet closer
    -6 jaw chuck with reversible top jaws
    -steadyrest
    -4 jaw chuck (with reversible top jaws)
    "Looks like.." a shop-fabbed plate the anchorage for the lever-closer are mounted to? If so, you may have to calculate / dummy-up and fab your own linkage?

    The drawtube is also up to you.

    Pre-threaded stock can be had. You can use a drawtube with either of a D1-3 mount closer or an internal-taper mount style, tube length needed will be dictated by that choice.

    Chucks you are usually money-ahead to buy as "flat back", "NOS" can be good. Finding USED ones that are still any good is harder every year.

    Turning four each 4-J jaws around is a tedious ITA. 4-J need not be expensive. I buy two chucks instead then leave one each way. D1-3 swaps pretty quickly.

    A(ny) six-jaw should have "two-piece" jaws. Not just for reversing. For attach of pie or "soft" jaws.


    Source the D1-3 backplates, separately, fit them in situ.

    Steady rests turn up "now and then" but are not an emergency. You only have a 20" max c-to-c span and are not likely to need a steady..

    Travel rest is more valuable. Think threading long slender screws. Monarch utilized five or so different ones. Of the rests. Not of the screws.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Well it was only two knobs ... and you would also know if it was still "Hollow State" had been modified to Scissio solid-state drop-ins for the gas bottles, had been modified to a third-party DC Drive, or even to a VFD rig?

    Oy! The SUSPENSE!

    I can sleep.

    Can you?


    LOL!
    Iíll get to it today.
    Gotta take my rigger to kindergarten first and do some day job things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    "Looks like.." a shop-fabbed plate the anchorage for the lever-closer are mounted to? If so, you may have to calculate / dummy-up and fab your own linkage?
    Ooooops!
    I looked down on the floor where I had put the 10EE stuff from the truck and found the linkage bar.



    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    The drawtube is also up to you.

    Pre-threaded stock can be had. You can use a drawtube with either of a D1-3 mount closer or an internal-taper mount style, tube length needed will be dictated by that choice.
    The original drawtube is still on there and the threads look good, BUT the length was obviously done to accommodate whatever type of 5C adapter that was there, that I didnít get with the lathe.
    Iíll measure the distance from the end of the drawtube to the spindle face.

    I think I would prefer an internal taper adapter, since I might be able to leave it in place and still mount a chuck.

    What is the spindle nose ID taper on the 10EE? MT5?

    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Chucks you are usually money-ahead to buy as "flat back", "NOS" can be good. Finding USED ones that are still any good is harder every year.
    Thatís definitely true!
    Iíll be keeping my eyes peeled.


    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Turning four each 4-J jaws around is a tedious ITA. 4-J need not be expensive. I buy two chucks instead then leave one each way. D1-3 swaps pretty quickly.

    A(ny) six-jaw should have "two-piece" jaws. Not just for reversing. For attach of pie or "soft" jaws.


    Source the D1-3 backplates, separately, fit them in situ.
    Good idea on having an inside 4 jaw chuck and an outside 4 jaw chuck.

    Since floorspace is at a premium, I could hang all my chucks and faceplates from the ceiling like gongs to act as skull hardness testers and earthquake sway indicatorsÖ :-) Just kidding!
    One nice feature of the HLV-H is the storage in the cabinet.

    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Steady rests turn up "now and then" but are not an emergency. You only have a 20" max c-to-c span and are not likely to need a steady..

    Travel rest is more valuable. Think threading long slender screws. Monarch utilized five or so different ones. Of the rests. Not of the screws.
    Thanks! Yeah, I agree.

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    Default 1956 Monarch 10EE, serial # 41672

    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Well it was only two knobs ... and you would also know if it was still "Hollow State" had been modified to Scissio solid-state drop-ins for the gas bottles, had been modified to a third-party DC Drive, or even to a VFD rig?

    Oy! The SUSPENSE!

    I can sleep.

    Can you?


    Those are some big tubes in there!



    Not sure why those straps are open. Looks like they should have another bolt holding them downÖ
    Probably someone trying to diagnose the DC drive problem(s).

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    Those are some big tubes in there!



    Not sure why those straps are open. Looks like they should have another bolt holding them down…
    Probably someone trying to diagnose the DC drive problem(s).
    Compared to all-band radio receivers or transmitters - even serious audio gear - of "hollow state days", they are brutally simple.

    Those familiar could strip it to bare metal, have it all cleaned, polished and back together in a single days' cumulative work, or not a great deal more. Several on PM have done it. Waiting for parts takes more time than putting them into place. BFD.

    The part to love MOST is that these (and the later Module drive) only need single-phase power, and not even a huge ration OF it.

    As Tim has sorted-out and now proven in use the adaptation of modern SCR's as drop-in replacements for the hardest to find - and ever-more-costly, big Argon tubes?

    Retain it.

    Clean it up.

    Not hard to see it running every bit as well as it did the day it left the factory. I kid you not. 100%

    It's the least-costly in money, and least-hassle in time, way to run the lathe.

    Modification to a modern "4Q" DC Drive allows shedding all of the DC panel, relays & contactors, a great deal of no-longer needed wires and terminals, and makes placing the controls anywhere you want them dead-easy.

    However .. it RUNS only slightly better, saves space you didn't need to save, and cannot easily use for storing "stuff" anyway.

    And costs more money.

    "Obsolete" is not the same as "useless".

    Or so I try to keep my wife convinced.. and she, me, thankfully!

    "Run what you got!"


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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Compared to all-band radio receivers or transmitters - even serious audio gear - of "hollow state days", they are brutally simple.

    Those familiar could strip it to bare metal, have it all cleaned, polished and back together in a single days' cumulative work, or not a great deal more. Several on PM have done it. Waiting for parts takes more time than putting them into place. BFD.
    Those people should come over and do that and Iíll ply them with beer, wine and various grilled meats and veggies from our garden.
    And if our chickens donít start laying eggs soon, fresh chicken might be on the menu tooÖ
    Sharks canít compare to chickens in a feeding frenzy! Anybody that falls into their pen will be nothing but bones in 30 minutesÖ :-)
    I had to pen them in because chickens apparently ravenously eat tomatoes and were destroying our tomato plants.



    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    The part to love MOST is that these (and the later Module drive) only need single-phase power, and not even a huge ration OF it.

    As Tim has sorted-out and now proven in use the adaptation of modern SCR's as drop-in replacements for the hardest to find - and ever-more-costly, big Argon tubes?

    Retain it.

    Clean it up.

    Not hard to see it running every bit as well as it did the day it left the factory. I kid you not. 100%

    It's the least-costly in money, and least-hassle in time, way to run the lathe.

    Modification to a modern "4Q"DC Drive allows shedding all the DC panel, a great deal of no-longer needed wires, and makes placing the controls anywhere you want them dead-easy.

    But it RUNS only slightly better, saves space you didn't need to save, and cannot easily use for storing stuff anyway.

    And costs more money.
    Yeah. Inexpensive solutions for the next while would be good. While I know Harry gave me great deals on the lathes, add in shipping and it has dented my credit cards/bank account.

    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    "Obsolete" is not the same as "useless".

    Or so I try to keep my wife convinced.. and she, me, thankfully!

    LOL!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    Those people should come over and do that and I’ll ply them with beer, wine and various grilled meats and veggies from our garden.
    If you can tie your own shoelaces, fix a leaky toilet, make gravy from scratch, or patch a hole in drywall, you can LEARN this in about a week.

    No "inventing" to it. No "engineering" to it.

    Just how to remove old components with minimal damage, find replacements, solder them in.


    And if our chickens don’t start laying eggs soon, fresh chicken might be on the menu too…
    Sharks can’t compare to chickens in a feeding frenzy! Anybody that falls into their pen will be nothing but bones in 30 minutes… :-)
    I had to pen them in because chickens apparently ravenously eat tomatoes and were destroying our tomato plants.
    LOL! Chik'n prime directive is EAT!!! They wuz' dinosaurs in a prior occupation, after all.

    Read what my own G'Dad had to say about the ravenous appetite of chickens, "Hacker Sez'" chapter of Jim Comstock's book "West Virginia Humor".

    Mind.. saner folk might class "West Virginia Humor" an oxymoron.

    The Paris Review - Jim Comstock’s “West Virginia Hillbilly,” A Newspaper for the Ages

    Can't really comment. Ever try to get an Ox to even show-UP for an IQ test?


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    So, to tool this 10EE up, I am looking for:

    -drawings for Monarch 10EE follower rests, bedway, cross-slide & compound, headstock & tailstock

    -Monarch 10EE 5C bullet nose D1-3 camlock taper adapter

    -Aloris CXA/Dorian Quadra toolpost and holders

    -follower rest

    -steadyrest




    I did acquire this steadyrest a while ago, but not sure what lathe it is for:








    I am not finding any stamps or markings on it.



    South Bend?
    Monarch?

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    And I also picked up this follower rest a while ago, but again, have no idea what lathe it is for:






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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    So, to tool this 10EE up, I am looking for:

    -drawings for Monarch 10EE follower rests, bedway, cross-slide & compound, headstock & tailstock
    Email Terri for a quote. AFAIK, cost is more the TIME to go dig them out of old files than for the copying.

    NB: Only a few of us ever HAD those. Most just measure what is right in front of us in "3D". Are you sure you NEED them?

    -Monarch 10EE 5C bullet nose D1-3 camlock taper adapter
    D1-3's get made "from scratch" on PM now and then. ANY D1-3 goods are going to fit, meant for 10EE or never were.

    I use a key-cranker 5C collet chuck on D1-3 mount instead. Seldom. Very. I have 2J and Rubberflex.

    The Stub #12 Jarno spindle taper is less universally common, but those have been DIY'ed, too..

    FWIW: Sjogren on D1-3 turn up more often in 2J than in 5C.


    -Aloris CXA/Dorian Quadra toolpost and holders
    Double-checked the size? Not my bag, "tuning forks".

    4-Way guy. Stiffer. But I don' run no steenkin' "carbides" anyway.

    You could be able to at least make chips cheaply and soon with a used 4-Way? Size is close to even the SB and Logan tens. Two of my many are ex Hardinge.
    'They are out there" and usually cheaply.

    -travel rest? FIRST find the PM threads on follow rests and aside yourself a set of the photos. There are at least FOUR different ones that fit a 10EE, and few look anywhere near like any of the others, so being able to recognize that a given one might or might not fit is important.

    I did acquire this steadyrest a while ago, but not sure what lathe it is for:
    "Generic" universal problem-solver? If the size is close, you should be able to adapt it. Not tall enough to match centerline is easy.
    Too-tall is harder.

    Rider adjustment is good enough you need not hit the height dead-nuts, just close.

    Plop it on and see how close it is and what has to be made or altered.

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