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D&L reground my Bridgeport tables, saddles and knees, and did excellent work. That lathe did some travelling, from Redwood City, to Sidney and then back to California. Does it have a motor generator, WIAD or something else?
Looks like it has another date under it of 6-12-12. Nice lathe
No need to open.
TS end hatch is blank for MG, Has fan grilles for WiAd.
Modulars have big, wide door in front, electrical switches in a line above.
Then again, if a conversion?
Most "deep pockets" major contractor/ DoD DC Drive modifications seem to show up on WiaD, (it was the least-powerful as-built) then Module drive (the most powerful, as-built, and also the newest, hence easier to justify the extra spend).
Well it was only two knobs ... and you would also know if it was still "Hollow State" had been modified to Scissio solid-state drop-ins for the gas bottles, had been modified to a third-party DC Drive, or even to a VFD rig?
Oy! The SUSPENSE!
I can sleep.
Can you?
"Looks like.." a shop-fabbed plate the anchorage for the lever-closer are mounted to? If so, you may have to calculate / dummy-up and fab your own linkage?
The drawtube is also up to you.
Pre-threaded stock can be had. You can use a drawtube with either of a D1-3 mount closer or an internal-taper mount style, tube length needed will be dictated by that choice.
Chucks you are usually money-ahead to buy as "flat back", "NOS" can be good. Finding USED ones that are still any good is harder every year.
Turning four each 4-J jaws around is a tedious ITA. 4-J need not be expensive. I buy two chucks instead then leave one each way. D1-3 swaps pretty quickly.
A(ny) six-jaw should have "two-piece" jaws. Not just for reversing. For attach of pie or "soft" jaws.
Source the D1-3 backplates, separately, fit them in situ.
Steady rests turn up "now and then" but are not an emergency. You only have a 20" max c-to-c span and are not likely to need a steady..
Travel rest is more valuable. Think threading long slender screws. Monarch utilized five or so different ones. Of the rests. Not of the screws.
Well it was only two knobs ... and you would also know if it was still "Hollow State" had been modified to Scissio solid-state drop-ins for the gas bottles, had been modified to a third-party DC Drive, or even to a VFD rig?
Oy! The SUSPENSE!
I can sleep.
Can you?
Compared to all-band radio receivers or transmitters - even serious audio gear - of "hollow state days", they are brutally simple.
Those familiar could strip it to bare metal, have it all cleaned, polished and back together in a single days' cumulative work, or not a great deal more. Several on PM have done it. Waiting for parts takes more time than putting them into place. BFD.
The part to love MOST is that these (and the later Module drive) only need single-phase power, and not even a huge ration OF it.
As Tim has sorted-out and now proven in use the adaptation of modern SCR's as drop-in replacements for the hardest to find - and ever-more-costly, big Argon tubes?
Retain it.
Clean it up.
Not hard to see it running every bit as well as it did the day it left the factory. I kid you not. 100%
It's the least-costly in money, and least-hassle in time, way to run the lathe.
Modification to a modern "4Q"DC Drive allows shedding all the DC panel, a great deal of no-longer needed wires, and makes placing the controls anywhere you want them dead-easy.
But it RUNS only slightly better, saves space you didn't need to save, and cannot easily use for storing stuff anyway.
And costs more money.
"Obsolete" is not the same as "useless".
Or so I try to keep my wife convinced.. and she, me, thankfully!
Email Terri for a quote. AFAIK, cost is more the TIME to go dig them out of old files than for the copying.
NB: Only a few of us ever HAD those. Most just measure what is right in front of us in "3D". Are you sure you NEED them?
D1-3's get made "from scratch" on PM now and then.
ANY D1-3 goods are is going to fit, meant for 10EE or never were.
The Stub #12 Jarno spindle taper is less universally common.
I use a key-cranker 5C collet chuck on D1-3 mount instead. Seldom. Very.
I prefer the 2J for 10EE use.
Double-checked the size? Not my bag, "tuning forks".
4-Way guy. Stiffer. But I don' run no steenkin' "carbides" anyway.
You could be able to at least make chips cheaply and soon with a used 4-Way? Size is close to even the SB and Logan tens. Two of my many are ex Hardinge.
Find the PM threads on follow rests and aside yourself a set of the photos. There are at least FOUR different ones that fit a 10EE, and few look anywhere near like any of the others
"Generic" universal problem-solver? If the size is close, you should be able to adapt it. ot tal lenoug to mathccentrline is easy. Too-tall is harder. Adjustment is good enough you need not hit the height dead-nuts, just close.
Plop it on and see how close it is and what has to be made or altered.
South Bend did have telescoping steady rests, but that style is more rare for them. Looking at style of casting my impression is not South Bend.
The follower rest is more of a South Bend style with the two open slots for mounting and square head adjusting screw. Also just above the mounting, see the cast part number, looks like 14-xxx. They did their part numbers with that kind of casting. If you get that casting number cleaned off email Ted, aka SBLatheman, and he can probably tell you.
Ted
[email protected]
Concerning your WIAD, this is what I did. I am in no way an electronics guy at all. Mine was very original but all the wires were rotten with lots of splices here and there. I bet yours is the same. I decided that a fix alittle here, chase aliitle there was a fools errand, and the only way to get a reliable unit was to completely restore the whole thing...all of it. I pulled out the Wiad unit and removed ,traced and replaced EVERY wire, drew up a rough schematic of every run, every wire. I think I used almost a 1000 feet of wire, there is a lot. I pulled all
the resistors, learned to identify the values and replaced ALL of them. I bench checked every component. Many of the oil filled capacitors are special, some of mine were leaking, I was able to get a second WIAD unit and put together a complete working set from the two units. Something that might prove problematic is some of the transformers. Mine was originally set up for 440V but most of the transformers were able to be "restrapped" to the lower 220V. Monarch has build schematics for the WIAD, that is it shows where every wire goes, and how to set up the transformers. You will need this, and compare your schematics to the official Monarch one, and you will find some big mistakes and wonder, "what idiot worked on this machine"? A major snag is the correct filament transformers. If yours are correct for the voltage and in good shape, you're golden,if not ,you will have to find replacements, not real easy. Monarch may have a better used electronic stash now than they used to. There was a member here that had some made and that saved my bacon, but that was a long time ago. You can check almost all of the components with a good multimeter, but may need something more specialized for the caps. I am scratching the surface here, but it is doable, and a proper running WIAD is a delight to use and those tubes look really cool when running. I have thought to install a clear door on the WIAD end with a mirror for the light show, it is kinda impressive.
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