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1956 Monarch 10EE shut off and now spindle will not rotate!!! # my1stforumever

Jet2jet10eedude

Plastic
Joined
Mar 26, 2020
Please let me start out by saying i apologize if i have posted this question in the wrong place or if i should have posted it at all. I have 1956 10EE that i believe has either a 5hp or 10hp DC motor has been going strong for many years with no problem and i am totally stumped as to what it is i have checked all the fuses i could find and looked for loose wires etc etc ...

I have a 1956 monarch 10EE 220 sigle phase lathe that i have had for 15 years and use it at least once a week. The lathe was rebuilt by co. HOFFACKER (rebuilt year unkown)... Yesterday me and my son were machining an aluminum spacer 1 1/8 for the front axle of his harley sportster when the spindle of my 10EE quit rotating!!! i turned the machine Off and turned it back on and went to put it in forward and the spindle would not turn! When i put the spindle lever in forward you can hear the "contact-er" close but nothing happens.

We have tryed to research on youtube and other machining forums but again i am not tech savvy so please bear with me as i did not know exactly where or how to post this question any help is greatly appreciated or anybody that may have a contact number for co. Hoffacker would be alot of help thank you all and have a great day TIA(thanks in advance)...
 
The only place to start would be for you to take some good quality (well lit, in focus, etc.) images of the drive components so we can identify just what you have. So the area under the headstock, under the bed and under the tailstock. Any identifying marks should be imaged as well. If there's a cover over a drive box take it off and show the insides.

Maybe then someone can help. Until then it's just a really painful guessing game.
 
Here are the pics thanks for the reply

Im very sorry i was waiting to get an email that someone replied ... luckily i checked it haha... i sent pictures it would only let me load 5 so i will take more better well lit pictures i hope these are visible for now and anything else i can get a pic of please let me know ... i think yall soo much for replying my dad has been pretty upset since it broke! Again thank yall very much.
 

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That drive isn't anything Monarch made. Even the Modulars didn't have circuit boards and the contactors are not original. If you cannot get any information from the people who installed it or have someone really knowledgeable to go through it, your chances of getting it going are poor. Your best hope is that it is something like a blown fuse, which is easy to detect. Beyond that, working without a manual is likely to pile up so many hours that you will spend more than a replacement unit.

Everybody seems to want to rip out the existing drive and install some orphan. There is a lot more to the equation than making the spindle turn. There are a lot of fine points like leaving the field voltage on for braking, then turning it off so the motor doesn't overheat and anti-plugging that get lost in these modifications.

First, how about a full frontal picture and the serial number and year of manufacture? That would allow us to determine what it used to be.

Bill
 
Was rebuilt by hoffacker in 56

Ummhh.. photos actually in better focus, larger and higher res would help, but, so far..

"Looks as if...." you have a 12 FLA 3 HP "small frame" Reliance Type T motor with the S1/S2 leads of the compensated shunt design.

AFAIK, those were used on the "WiaD" (Works in a Drawer) gas Thyratron drive 10EE.
But the characteristic pull-out drawer and its "fire bottle" tubes are not in evidence.

So you appear to have some other drive. Presence of contactors for reversing sez "First Quadrant" Solid State.

Annnnnd it doesn't look like Hoffman used one of the more common ones we've seen and have manuals for at least the packaged-component "building blocks" of.

It could be as simple as resetting a tripped breaker, replacing a blown fuse, or.. as complex as trying to reverse-engineer that drive and do, or hire done, "board level" repairs.

That runs typically around $1,200 and up in technician's labour if they already have or can easily get the documentation on the drive. More if they have to figure it out by inspection. They aren't particularly complicated, but it is tedious and time-consuming work.

Repair may not be a wise route, given a new drive, new components, with warranty, of a type still in current production is close to the same spend.

Reverting to factory-as-built can also be doen, but you'd need to find a WiaD rig from a part-out or VFD downgrade, then - for prudence - apply Tim's Solid State repacements for the largest two Thyratron tubes, and a bit more as to refubishing the other tube and the rst of the rig.

Good news is a WiaD it waaaay simpler than the Solid State drive as to components.
Bad news is you have to do the refurb work, not just connect wires and set various switches and trimpots.

A used DC Drive can be as little as $400 for the two drives, large one for Armature, small one for field, but those are not ALL you would need.

Not certain (yet) if you would also need a boost transformer, but probably, and a ripple-filter, too, as you did say "single phase" supply.

New or used replacement drive can be done DIY. You would be configuring and connecting, not "inventing".

Might want to check your fuses and such first?

Also try for better fotos and more OF them, please.

PS: Your drive belts are shot. Badly so. Your motor mounting plate has also been robbed of at least one of its resilient mounts.

PPS: be CAREFUL..

The 220/240 AC side voltages can be lethal. The 230 to 250+ DC "stick and rectumfry" Voltages are even MORE lethal.

Sorry it is very hard for me to figure out to reply to these posts but thanks again for helping
The lathe was rebuilt by. C.O. Hoffacker ( year unkown ) we are looking for the case number now but it may be in pictures we are reading the replies now just wanted to let yall know about the hoffacker rebuild thing
 
More pics

That drive isn't anything Monarch made. Even the Modulars didn't have circuit boards and the contactors are not original. If you cannot get any information from the people who installed it or have someone really knowledgeable to go through it, your chances of getting it going are poor. Your best hope is that it is something like a blown fuse, which is easy to detect. Beyond that, working without a manual is likely to pile up so many hours that you will spend more than a replacement unit.

Everybody seems to want to rip out the existing drive and install some orphan. There is a lot more to the equation than making the spindle turn. There are a lot of fine points like leaving the field voltage on for braking, then turning it off so the motor doesn't overheat and anti-plugging that get lost in these modifications.

First, how about a full frontal picture and the serial number and year of manufacture? That would allow us to determine what it used to be.

Bill

Im still trying to figure out how to use this forum thank you for Your help and patience i tried to attach some more photos and im on the way to the garage now to take more... im goin to try and get better focus and more zoomed in pictures ... anything else i can get a picture if please let me know ... in 15 years we havent had a problem with this thing yet and it was running , shut off, then we cut back on but the spindle wont turn you just here the contacts clicking ... so i really hope we can fix it with you guys help TIA and any more pics i can take please dont hesitate to ask thanks
 

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Is this the problem???!!!

Ummhh.. photos actually in better focus, larger and higher res would help, but, so far..

"Looks as if...." you have a 12 FLA 3 HP "small frame" Reliance Type T motor with the S1/S2 leads of the compensated shunt design.

AFAIK, those were used on the "WiaD" (Works in a Drawer) gas Thyratron drive 10EE.
But the characteristic pull-out drawer and its "fire bottle" tubes are not in evidence.

So you appear to have some other drive. Presence of contactors for reversing sez "First Quadrant" Solid State.

Annnnnd it doesn't look like Hoffman used one of the more common ones we've seen and have manuals for at least the packaged-component "building blocks" of.

It could be as simple as resetting a tripped breaker, replacing a blown fuse, or.. as complex as trying to reverse-engineer that drive and do, or hire done, "board level" repairs.

That runs typically around $1,200 and up in technician's labour if they already have or can easily get the documentation on the drive. More if they have to figure it out by inspection. They aren't particularly complicated, but it is tedious and time-consuming work.

Repair may not be a wise route, given a new drive, new components, with warranty, of a type still in current production is close to the same spend.

Reverting to factory-as-built can also be doen, but you'd need to find a WiaD rig from a part-out or VFD downgrade, then - for prudence - apply Tim's Solid State repacements for the largest two Thyratron tubes, and a bit more as to refubishing the other tube and the rst of the rig.

Good news is a WiaD it waaaay simpler than the Solid State drive as to components.
Bad news is you have to do the refurb work, not just connect wires and set various switches and trimpots.

A used DC Drive can be as little as $400 for the two drives, large one for Armature, small one for field, but those are not ALL you would need.

Not certain (yet) if you would also need a boost transformer, but probably, and a ripple-filter, too, as you did say "single phase" supply.

New or used replacement drive can be done DIY. You would be configuring and connecting, not "inventing".

Might want to check your fuses and such first?

Also try for better fotos and more OF them, please.

PS: Your drive belts are shot. Badly so. Your motor mounting plate has also been robbed of at least one of its resilient mounts.

PPS: be CAREFUL..

The 220/240 AC side voltages can be lethal. The 230 to 250+ DC "stick and rectumfry" Voltages are even MORE lethal.

My fellow machinist !!! Could this be the problem???
 

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