Thread: 1962 Monarch 10EE 10x30 Tool Room Lathe

Looks like a dandy snag to me!

I would have left tailstock on, and rigged to lift from under the bed, just to right of the chuck (balance)... once on trailer, screw blocks down to the deck at all points, then secure down with no less than four straps (one towards each corner) and another two, one front to rear, and rear to front.

I'd probably stop by a car-wash and knock off all the crap and loose paint, then take it straight into a dry garage, get it as dry as I can, then apply oil and/or wax to the machined surfaces to protect them.

Damn, Ive been looking around as well for months on CL,Ebay,& other sites before I found my 10EE a couple weeks ago. I went small to larger radius searches. I drove 885 miles round trip to get mine. Thats a good find right there. I too would have loved to have a 30” between centers.

I'll be interested to know if you decide to have the bed ground, or try a grinding sled.

Thanks for the pic of the inner vee way. I thought my ridge was bad but you win with that one. Good thing you can buy Rulon in thicknesses up to .125" so the normal rebuild process still works.

Agreed with above, it's crusty but I'm jealous too.

The only fear would be that because the ways are so worn that you would have to grind beyond the hardened surface to clean it up. Probably not a huge issue as the machine will never be used to such a extent as to be a concern.

Originally Posted by DaveKamp

Looks like a dandy snag to me!

I would have left tailstock on. . .

Thanks, and good advice on a few items there. The location and situation where the lathe is has some unknowns to me. I snatched the tails stock the first day as a bit of buyers insurance . Grabbed the end covers, compound, cross slide CF dial the next day. Hope to not have any sad stories.

To Rabler on bed re-grind or sled. After staring at the Series 61 for quite a while, the 10ee seems small, like I can man handle almost anything . With the bed a whole lot shorter, and lighter. . .It leaves options open I think. Physical cost of moving, or real cost of potential shipping much less than the 61. I didn't do a full eval yet, but it seems like carriage flat way is fine. So if sent out to only grind inner vee. . .maybe not a terrible cost, not sure yet though. Priority #1 rebuild is the 61. So I think I will have better answers after getting through that.

To Daryl Bane, agree on both points, particularly that the machine will not see 8-12 hour shifts 5 days a week again. Maybe more so with me. I'm not what I think of as a production type guy. More into repairs through my life, career, temperament I guess. So tend use machines to help me in those endeavors, and to work on other machines .

A lot of good replies and interest, thanks a lot guys. I'll keep updating and posting pics as I get sorted. I've gone through several machines as far as tear downs, clean, lube, and misc repairs. I'm about to attempt my first scraping and such of a Series 61. That should kick off in a couple weeks or so, as I had been prepping for it leading to this 10ee buy. Hopefully I'll figure out some good lessons to apply here.

Nice score! The bed wear is extreme, considering it had a full rebuild in 89. Maybe they already ground it once, and the hard surface was already ground off? I have always wondered if a 10EE bed could be re-hardened prior to grinding. I also wonder whether Monarch still has a flame-hardening setup.

Originally Posted by rimcanyon

Nice score! The bed wear is extreme, considering it had a full rebuild in 89. Maybe they already ground it once, and the hard surface was already ground off? I have always wondered if a 10EE bed could be re-hardened prior to grinding. I also wonder whether Monarch still has a flame-hardening setup.

That could be right, but in my head I'm already blaming a failure in the lube system. I really don't care for so many Bijur pop fittings in machines. Each one just adds another failure point. It seems like most wear and damage to machines I see is lube failure, not natural wear from use with a working lube system.

A guy who cares and uses his eyeballs to look and check things might spot a problem and do something about it. But obvious, that hasn't always happened.

Originally Posted by texasgunsmith

That could be right, but in my head I'm already blaming a failure in the lube system. I really don't care for so many Bijur pop fittings in machines. Each one just adds another failure point. It seems like most wear and damage to machines I see is lube failure, not natural wear from use with a working lube system.

A guy who cares and uses his eyeballs to look and check things might spot a problem and do something about it. But obvious, that hasn't always happened.

Yes, that always gets to me too. Also rebuilders without a lot of sense, who take great pains to refinish a machine without really doing the basics. I have a 100% rebuilt 59 machine that I am currently working on. The paint was flawless, nice 2-part epoxy. Even the inside of the motor compartment, apron and headstock were painted with a red glyptol. The bed was ground and a new saddle installed, but for the saddle v-way, they machined a straight line oil channel, no zig-zag, and it left a wear line on the v that was quite prominent.

Originally Posted by thermite

Not the only example built on "mature" Iron", AKA "proven and respected".. Okuma?

The Schaublin 125-CCN is still made today. It's bed is very similar to the original 125 manual machines casting.
Mark

Originally Posted by texasgunsmith

To Rabler on bed re-grind or sled. After staring at the Series 61 for quite a while, the 10ee seems small, like I can man handle almost anything . With the bed a whole lot shorter, and lighter. . .It leaves options open I think. Physical cost of moving, or real cost of potential shipping much less than the 61. I didn't do a full eval yet, but it seems like carriage flat way is fine. So if sent out to only grind inner vee. . .maybe not a terrible cost, not sure yet though. Priority #1 rebuild is the 61. So I think I will have better answers after getting through that.

I'm about to attempt my first scraping and such of a Series 61. That should kick off in a couple weeks or so, as I had been prepping for it leading to this 10ee buy. Hopefully I'll figure out some good lessons to apply here.

I'll definitely be watching your progress and trying to pick up anything I can from your work. I do have to say though, if you can manhandle a 30" bed 10EE, I'm going to be very impressed.

These projects are fun, and you obviously had to jump on this 10EE when it came available as another 30" may not come along in the next decade within the same area. But I do know how things stack up.

Originally Posted by rabler

I'll definitely be watching your progress and trying to pick up anything I can from your work. I do have to say though, if you can manhandle a 30" bed 10EE, I'm going to be very impressed.

These projects are fun, and you obviously had to jump on this 10EE when it came available as another 30" may not come along in the next decade within the same area. But I do know how things stack up.

The total lathe has a bit of weight to it, I'm thinking 3500 lbs or so. But a great deal of it seems to be below the bed. Base and chip pan is a big hunk of cast iron. But just comparing the head stock of the 61 in the vicinity of 2000 lbs, I thought this might be easier. And funny, the styling of items like apron, carriage etc is very similar, just a whole lot smaller on this. I was thinking those I could snatch off by hand.

I had just cleaned and organized my shop like 2 weeks ago. I swore I was not buying anything till I cleared some other projects . With 2 lathes already I figured I was set there. But this was hard to pass up.

I got the 10ee loaded on trailer yesterday and home. Today I got it off the trailer and inside my shop. I just need to get it moved to its parking spot, till I sort out its permanent location.