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1962 Monarch 10EE 10x30 Tool Room Lathe

texasgeartrain

Titanium
Joined
Feb 23, 2016
Location
Houston, TX
So I did a thing. I bought another wreck. If its damaged, abused, or not operational . . . I think I must have it. :D

I have been casually watching my area for a quite a while and its only the 2nd 10ee I've happen to notice for sale for probably a few years.

A few up sides. The price, I got it fairly low due to its condition. Its a 30", longer bed. Its nearly complete, except for taper attachment. Taper attachment mounting is there, but it guts are missing. Spindle spins freely.

Downsides, its been outside a while and it shows. Inner vee for carriage has a hefty gouge line half its thickness. Oh, and I need to move it, I hate moving machines :D.

I had limited time to view it. Removing front electric door, I can peek through cracks and see motor is there. Was not sure how to remove two left side covers, off head stock and base. I see an allen head locking mechanism at 12 oclock of upper cover. Playing with it for a short time, could not sort out how to remove it. It seemed that needs to come off before lower base cover. Any advice there appreciated.

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I didn't find any particular info on the 30" bed either. I know they are more rare, but anything useful someone could point out would be appreciated as well.

This is not a project I'm going to jump on right away. Need to finish some others first.

Pic of TA mounting, missing the pieces:

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Pics from seller's advert:

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The pattern for the 30" was lost in a fire years ago.
I don't know if a new pattern was ever made.
They have a 20" pattern.
Hal
 
Sorry, can't be too sympathetic about you having to move it. Lot less to move than your 61. A 30" is pretty rare. You'll have some work to do making that run. The cap screw on the top cover on the headstock end usually turns 90 degrees to unlock a cam. The bottom one just sits on pins so it will lift out once the top cover is off. As Thermite says, I'd strap then down when moving, they're really not held on by much.

If it works like my CK, you'll at least need to put a bolt and clamp plate on the taper to secure the cross slide leadscrew. Hole for that bolt is on top farthest back from front of the lathe.

Definitely looking forward to hearing about your progress on this once you get started. I certainly understand having a few too many projects.
 
Taper attachments show up on ebay from time to time but not cheap. Can you show a pic of that gouge on the inner vee? I've seen ridges there before but none being described as a gouge in a hardened bed.

Congrats on finding a 30". I wish mine was one because I have to be so dam careful to not jab my elbow with whatever is residing in the quill.
 
Got over to snatch a few easy pieces off before I move it, and snatched some more pics.

Got the end covers off, and carted home:

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Tag by motor entrance:

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A better look at the length. I like the extension off the base:

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Coming around right, front side:

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A look at the inner vee wear I mentioned. Having wiped it off better, its a little different than I described, I had noticed the upper ridge more clearly yesterday:

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Electrical components under chip pan area:

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Aloris tool post a plus:

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Peaking in the door from right, TS end:

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Government and rebuild tag, wonder if I ought to sweep it with a Geiger counter, make sure its not hot :D:

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A little off topic. Seller also has a Cincinnati Toolmaster 1B, similar condition. Price about right for condition. I really would like a Toolmaster 1D with the #40 taper. 1B uses a collet, and less features. As far as esthetics, its late 1950's ish. Rounded overarm which looks nice. Later in the 1960's overarm was more box style.

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I would guess the "rebuild" the government did in 89 was was electrical.
You could call Monarch and ask them how it was powered when it left the factory.
From the pictures of the bed, I wouldn't guess they reground the bed.
That bed has the most wear of any I've seen pictures of.
Just as well call around and see what they charge to grind the bed.
Good luck.

Hal
 
Looks like a dandy snag to me!

I would have left tailstock on, and rigged to lift from under the bed, just to right of the chuck (balance)... once on trailer, screw blocks down to the deck at all points, then secure down with no less than four straps (one towards each corner) and another two, one front to rear, and rear to front.

I'd probably stop by a car-wash and knock off all the crap and loose paint, then take it straight into a dry garage, get it as dry as I can, then apply oil and/or wax to the machined surfaces to protect them.
 
Damn, Ive been looking around as well for months on CL,Ebay,& other sites before I found my 10EE a couple weeks ago. I went small to larger radius searches. I drove 885 miles round trip to get mine. Thats a good find right there. I too would have loved to have a 30” between centers.
 
Thanks for the pic of the inner vee way. I thought my ridge was bad but you win with that one. Good thing you can buy Rulon in thicknesses up to .125" so the normal rebuild process still works.

Agreed with above, it's crusty but I'm jealous too.
 








 
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