1963 Monarch 10EE parts needed!
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  1. #1
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    Default 1963 Monarch 10EE parts needed!

    I just took delivery of a nice clean Monarch 10EE built in 5/63. Was told on the phone that it was a running machine. Opened it up today to find the modular drive is missing one C16J tube is missing, the C3J tube is missing and three relays are missing. If anyone has some spare parts available this would be greatly appreciated!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Bove View Post
    I just took delivery of a nice clean Monarch 10EE built in 5/63. Was told on the phone that it was a running machine. Opened it up today to find the modular drive is missing one C16J tube is missing, the C3J tube is missing and three relays are missing. If anyone has some spare parts available this would be greatly appreciated!
    I am not he, but some may have. The solid-state tube substitutes seem to be working out OK as well.

    Meanwhile, clarify, please:

    Is the "Module" itself missing as well? Or just the tubes and relays?

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    I am not he, but some may have. The solid-state tube substitutes seem to be working out OK as well.

    Meanwhile, clarify, please:

    Is the "Module" itself missing as well? Or just the tubes and relays?
    Its missing the actual module that plugs in along with one C16J and the C3J. I found a new old stock Salvania C3J off eBay last night for $38
    I'm fortunate enough that the lathe came with all the original blueprints/diagrams and parts lists!
    As for the relays it needs part numbers..

    25488 one minute timer
    25487 field loss relay
    25486 anti plugging relay

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Bove View Post
    Its missing the actual module that plugs in along with one C16J and the C3J. I found a new old stock Salvania C3J off eBay last night for $38
    I'm fortunate enough that the lathe came with all the original blueprints/diagrams and parts lists!
    As for the relays it needs part numbers..

    25488 one minute timer
    25487 field loss relay
    25486 anti plugging relay
    This stuff is "out there", if only off the back of those who convert to VFD (or now and then DC Drive..).

    "Patience" and keep asking, it should turn-up. PM already has the threads on refurbishing the Module when you get yer hands on one.

    We "might" even have a thread on a DIY replacement - not my area, but PM has other folks who know.

    Despair ye not. It CAN be put back to rights, and generally faster and at lower cost in time and money than a conversion.

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    Not sure this is really a good idea but none of those relays are critical to the lathe function and all can be bypassed while you're looking for replacements. The timer is to keep you from starting the drive before the tubes are warm, just waiting 1 minute does the same purpose. The field loss relay is important long term to stop the drive when you lose the field (and thus stopping a runaway) but it can be substituted. The antiplugging relay only stops you from going from forward to reverse until the drive slows down, again bypassing and being careful will sub until a replacement can be sourced.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    Not sure this is really a good idea but none of those relays are critical to the lathe function and all can be bypassed while you're looking for replacements. The timer is to keep you from starting the drive before the tubes are warm, just waiting 1 minute does the same purpose. The field loss relay is important long term to stop the drive when you lose the field (and thus stopping a runaway) but it can be substituted. The antiplugging relay only stops you from going from forward to reverse until the drive slows down, again bypassing and being careful will sub until a replacement can be sourced.
    Need of wide, smooth, speed range of a "Type T" design led to an inefficient energy-conversion compromise (~73%, best-case).

    Result is the massive buggers suck the magnetic remanence out of unpowered Field and Iron before they get to hand-grenade RPM.

    Total Field loss on a DC drive 10EE won't run the motor to destruction. Tested that. Intentionally. And Hard.

    Don't try this at home.. unless you've already invested in spare motors.

    Naked motor. Out of the lathe. No belts. Not even a gearbox on it.

    Zero field, 330 VDC or so on the Armature heading for 350. Commutator arc flash hit first. Massive sound and light show akin to frying bacon with a crab-steamer full of lightning bolts!

    Now... Field ACCELERATION - bumping up the Field power so there is TORQUE to-hand, when speeding-up or BRAKING is needed is the useful part of its function.

    And yes, one can live without it, even so.

    Increasing RPM rapidly is a tad gnarlier once into the Field-Weakened range, slow increase no problem, nor changes at base RPM or below.

    RPM is stable once it reaches whatever was dialed-in, regardless.

    Braking is slower, but again, only if begun from up in the Field-Weakened range.

    CAVEAT: Over HALF of a 10EE's RPM band IS in the Field Weakened range!



    BFD. Rugged bastid's are much like the minders they enlist in their service.

    Old 10EE's or Old Farts, either one .. we tend to simply get the job DONE, regardless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Bove View Post
    Its missing the actual module that plugs in along with one C16J and the C3J. I found a new old stock Salvania C3J off eBay last night for $38
    I'm fortunate enough that the lathe came with all the original blueprints/diagrams and parts lists!
    As for the relays it needs part numbers..

    25488 one minute timer
    25487 field loss relay
    25486 anti plugging relay
    C3J commonly available on ebay.
    Module box I responded on separate thread.
    C16J much better to buy from Scissio.com (buy 2). Unless you are addicted to the glowing lights.

    For the other parts, if you see them in this thread 10EE Modular Parts - Relays & Transformers, etc. for Sale
    I still have them.


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