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1985 10EE up for sale--not miine

And it looks to be in right decent condition. Unusually so for HGR!

Don't worry - there is a guy there who will INSIST he can lift it by forking under the bed and that any bending of feedrods, etc is minor. As another option, he will wrap the bed ways with chains. And if you dare to go to your vehicle to get proper slings, he'll do it while you're outside.

If the lathe needs to be repositioned on the ground - no problem. Just stab it with forks.

Also, if you ask for an experienced guy to load it, you can expect them to give you their least experienced guy.

Horribly Grotesque Rigging.
 
I find all Monarch ee lathes interesting.
This one the drive was changed to an aftermarket Westinghouse drive. The machine has inch metric gearbox, but no I/M dials on the movements, or ELSR. Does have taper attachment.
I cant say its a good or bad deal...
 
I find all Monarch ee lathes interesting.
This one the drive was changed to an aftermarket Westinghouse drive. The machine has inch metric gearbox, but no I/M dials on the movements, or ELSR. Does have taper attachment.
I cant say its a good or bad deal...

This one appears to have a MT2 in the tail stock-- did any of the late model machines have MT3 taillstocks?
 
This one appears to have a MT2 in the tail stock-- did any of the late model machines have MT3 taillstocks?

I don't believe they offered mt3 for the tailstock, but would probably do it if requested, there have been some radical custom ordered ee lathes over the years pictured here, the one with an additional headstock backgear comes to mind.
The machine here has the heavier tailstock introduced in the 1970s. This one has the standard inch reading dial on the tailstock handwheel making the extra material show. Also the quill is 1 3/4" vs. 1 1/2" diameter for the earlier style tailstock.

For the people sleuthing about or stalking the wild ee lathe, the location of the disconnect switch on the right hand electrical compartment door was moved in 1984 along the upper edge of the door and to the right. The left hand electronic compartment with have large circuit boards that slide straight in, indicating the solid state regenerative drive.

The module drive, the disconnect switch is along the left edge of the door, about middle.
 
One thing often not considered is the reasonable capacity of the machine, for example Mt 3 drill bits go up to 1 1/4", the tailstock clamp is not capable of holding the tailstock plowing a large drill bit through 4140. So, the only reason to have a MT3 tail bore, would be for repair of a damaged MT2.
The machines from this era are extremely rare, every one a custom order. This one does not have all options, but it cost over 50000 back then. The Electrix work lamp, only 600.
 
The way it usually worked at the Hanford site, when the machines lost tolerance, the "old guys" got new ones, and the used ones went out to the general shop areas, they were animals out there.
This machine pictured priced a little chunk more then Monarch buys such machines back for, looks to have original paint in good condition, and other indications this may be a good machine.
I am sure there was a funeral, with crying for the original drive sometime back, the drive installed looks like a dud, but, perhaps an AC system could work out.
When I was looking for these machines for work, I might bite on this one... Old buzzard on a fence now days, I would go 900!

The taper attachment was an 8000 dollar option!
 
Well, yeah, but at least this one is on a very nice skid. No need to get a forklift anywhere near the machine itself.

Don't worry - there is a guy there who will INSIST he can lift it by forking under the bed and that any bending of feedrods, etc is minor. As another option, he will wrap the bed ways with chains. And if you dare to go to your vehicle to get proper slings, he'll do it while you're outside.

If the lathe needs to be repositioned on the ground - no problem. Just stab it with forks.

Also, if you ask for an experienced guy to load it, you can expect them to give you their least experienced guy.

Horribly Grotesque Rigging.
 
Don't worry - there is a guy there who will INSIST he can lift it by forking under the bed and that any bending of feedrods, etc is minor. As another option, he will wrap the bed ways with chains. And if you dare to go to your vehicle to get proper slings, he'll do it while you're outside.

If the lathe needs to be repositioned on the ground - no problem. Just stab it with forks.

Also, if you ask for an experienced guy to load it, you can expect them to give you their least experienced guy.

Horribly Grotesque Rigging.

I think they have improved a bit regarding rigging after one of the employees was killed during a rigging accident.

Bill
 
At this site, if you go to "machine tools", there are two ee 8" 4jaw chucks $199ea, a 6" 3jaw, $99, faceplate-cheap!
There was an outfit locally called George Washington Machine, it use to advertise several pages in the old Yellow publication. They had even more machines, no way to test them, they liked to slop paint on them. Many people had a hard time dealing with them, complained often on this site.
Funny thing about dealers like this, if you are smart enough to adapt to the situation, might be able to come out ahead, need a chuck, they have a few.

Right now, I am dealing with a hoarder, and that takes a most delicate approach.
 
The limp dick locals, are worried " he is buying machines, he wont say what he is up to!"," he runs the snitches off".
Whats really funny, surviving cancer, and seven surgeries, that is what keeps the clowns at distance.

Anyway, back on topic, I would not rule out buying from this company, first would be to probe for a sales person that wants to do business.
 








 
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