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‘42 round dial MG diagnostic help

Fourierseries

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
I have a 10EE that I have not done much with inside base. I would like to find out if any or all of the electrical parts are useable or if I should just scrap it all and install a new complete drive. I would really like to keep it original if possible. So I believe I need to start at the generator and exciter yes? Pull the plate and see how it’s wired? It has 240V and 480 V options. I don’t know which. But if it’s wired 480 I don’t have service for that so I will wire it 240 if that’s the case. Next, I planned on hookup to a vfd and see if I get power. This machine has no apron on it or anything on the bed. The gearbox cover plate (the round dial) is removed and the associated parts are also removed. All the gears and such are still in there. The headstock has no oil in it and neither does the gearbox. All sight glasses have been removed. My plan for the headstock gearbox apron saddle taper attachment cross slide etc is to remove all of this and replace with donor 10EE. The bed is another thing. I want to see which one I have is the better to use. I will use the one with less wear. Back to the issue, what should I do next with MG?
 
Depends on what you want the lathe for. I use mine for work and don't have time to fool around with 80 yr old parts. A straight up repowering with a 7.5 AC motor with VFD just simplified the drive, improved reliability and makes for an easy to work with and QUIET machine. Think the practical side of machining here as in the name of this forum. If you like the originality of the design, have the time to fool around and are just doing occasional work with it, then just trudge along trying to make it work and then keep it working. That would be my advice. But I'm a cranky old SOB that doesn't have enough time left to play games with my machines. So take it with a grain of salt. Don
 
I have a 10EE that I have not done much with inside base. I would like to find out if any or all of the electrical parts are useable or if I should just scrap it all and install a new complete drive. I would really like to keep it original if possible. So I believe I need to start at the generator and exciter yes? Pull the plate and see how it’s wired? It has 240V and 480 V options. I don’t know which. But if it’s wired 480 I don’t have service for that so I will wire it 240 if that’s the case. Next, I planned on hookup to a vfd and see if I get power. ... Back to the issue, what should I do next with MG?
Here's a link to a thread that will help you figure out what voltage is currently set up for and how to convert it to 240:
10EE MG 440 to 220 Conversion Checklist

Cal
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If I can get the motor working I will change out the headstock. I have another machine that is in another thread. Increasing RPM on 10EE. If the electrical components of this machine can be saved I will transplant headstock, gearbox, saddle, apron, and possibly bed onto this machine. My other machine has nothing below bed. It sits on a fabricated stand. Beneath the frame is a 1 HP 220V 1 phase variable speed drive.
 
First, the generator has only 3 wires coming from it to the T1,T2,T3 terminals. There are no other wires either grouped together or bundled with 1,2,3. There are other wires coming through same hole. They go to GF1,2 and D which is coupled to a wire going to exciter. Could the actual wiring be done inside the generator and just the final leads be run to terminal box?
 
I will test the DC motor tomorrow. But not fully understanding your language. 2 each in series are you saying 4 batteries?
 
Assuming that you have the more common piggyback exciter type, the motor/generator (MG) is a combination unit with both an AC motor and a DC generator. The T1-T9 wires go to the AC motor portion, not the generator. There should be a tag on the MG that tells you which voltage(s) it was built to run at. If it lists both 220 and 440 but only has three wires, it's probably been rewound. You need to look at the coil on the AC contactor (in the compartment on the back of the headstock) and the fuses in the AC disconnect box on the back (if so equipped) to figure out what the machine was set up for.

Cal
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I have pictures of all you have described. I have no way to upload them. What I meant by going into generator is that the terminal box is mounted to generator housing there is a hole going out of terminal box at mounting. The wires disappear through that hole. Where they actually go... there are three knockouts on terminal box. One seems to go to on-off switch plate, another appears to go to generator and third seems to go to exciter. Anyway I could post pictures if someone were to tell me how.
 
I have pictures of all you have described. I have no way to upload them. What I meant by going into generator is that the terminal box is mounted to generator housing there is a hole going out of terminal box at mounting. The wires disappear through that hole. Where they actually go... there are three knockouts on terminal box. One seems to go to on-off switch plate, another appears to go to generator and third seems to go to exciter. Anyway I could post pictures if someone were to tell me how.


If you go to the South Bend Forum there is a Sticky that explains how to post pictures. You really need photos to get help at this point.
 
Originally Posted by Fourierseries
I have pictures of all you have described. I have no way to upload them. What I meant by going


click the image above the posting box that looks like a framed picture.
Upload or paste the link into the box then click upload file. It takes a few seconds to upload



Insert Image
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Unfortunately when I was uploading photos I had to memorize which pictures to upload because I couldn’t see the ones I was choosing for the site. I unfortunately didn’t remember correctly or I would have not have had so many of the same pic.
 
so now that you can see the flat box and the contactors what am I missing? there are only 3 wires coming into T1T2T3 why? what kind of coil do I have? from the picture of the spindle motor can you tell if its 3HP or 5HP? where do I connect to to test the generator? the motor? what do I connect to the motor to test? generator? what would be a positive result? please help...more pictures..okay of what specifically?
 
You need to go back to the conversion checklist thread that I posted and go through the steps.

We need to know what the data plate on the motor/generator shows:
208435d1506029077-10ee-mg-440-220-conversion-checklist-img_9939.jpg


We need to know what the coil voltage and heater numbers are for the main AC contactor:
275753d1579308234-10ee-mg-440-220-conversion-checklist-ee-cutler-hammer-contactor-annotated.jpg


We need to know if there is an AC disconnect box on the back and if it contains fuses, what amperage is marked on them.

Your pictures aren't very useful because they are very low resolution. I suspect that you're using an iPhone to take them. For some reason, iPhone photos don't upload correctly and need to be run through some sort of photo editor and re-saved before they'll post properly.

Cal
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the data plate says same as yours. 220-440 14-7 amps at 60 Hz. there is no disconnect on back of unit. that would have told me right off. no need for any of this.At least that is what I am used to seeing. the line voltage is printed on outside of disconnect.the coil is 125V DC and the only number I could find on heaters is 5825478 I think. Hard to read so close to board and only read on a steep angle
 








 
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