'54 Square dial w/ threader gearbox issues. Any guess on downtime? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alberic View Post
    Further data:

    So I got to wondering: With the machine set to 'feed' I can hand spin the lead screw with no real drag on it at all. It just spins freely.
    In 'thread', it doesn't move at all. By hand.
    I put it back in thread, and ran it a bit. It stopped dead every time I closed the half nuts, but did keep rolling with a slightly lesser load on it. So it's not running on a totally sheared pin, and just spinning by friction with the drive gear. It's got a bit more connection than that.

    I'm coming to the belief that some bozo crashed her hard while cutting a thread, and pretty much blew up the threading side of the gearbox. Or at least sheared the pins. (ah, mechanical fuses. How do I love thee...)
    Which moves it firmly onto the 'fuss with it *much* later' list. I've been meaning to take the thing down for a serious rebuild at some point in the next few years. It's looking like that may be the time to deal with it. Or, if I can find a pullout gearbox somewhere...

    Thanks for all the help.
    Brian
    I'd bet the problem is a simple one, myself. Open the 1/4 round top and take a look, you can see most all of the gearbox from there..

  2. #22
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    HI guys,

    OK, pull the round-top cover. Sounds plausible.
    Is there a thread somewhere with a procedure? There are a couple of knobs and levers that look like they go through it, and it'd be helpful to know what to pull in which order, and how to get them off, before I go for it.

    It's been a long month of Sundays since I wrenched on a EE, and that one was a round dial. (with MG issues. The running gear was fine.)

    Thanks,
    Brian

  3. #23
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    I can't remember if it is necessary to remove the tombstone selector cover or not. First remove the tumbler lever on the right end of the gearbox on the 1/4 cover. This should will be held on with a taper pin, remove socket heads screws that hold the detent block for this lever. The tumbler rod should be able to be pulled out. Remove the two socket head screws on the top of the 1/4 cover, and a couple on the side where the tumbler lever was , I think you can pull / slide the cover to the front...he says. If the tomstone cover does need to come off, remove the two holed spanner bolt on the front of the knob and it can be pulled off, there is a woodruff key on the shaft, that comes off too, the knob might be obstinate, then remove the three socket head bolts on the cover and it should pull off. You may have to run a razor blade around the joint to clean the paint that might make it hard to pull apart. I have probably forgotten something but this will give you a good start.

  4. #24
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    HI guys,

    Update: I managed to track down an entire (allegedly working) pullout gearbox. Should have it in a few weeks. Once that arrives, clean, check, etc, then do a hot swap on the whole unit. And then fix the primary, so I've got another hot unit. I like spares, I really do....

    Thanks for all the help. Daryl, thanks for the procedure, I suspect most of it will come in handy when I go to pull the whole unit.

    Regards,
    Brian

  5. #25
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    Good news Brian!
    If you can, document the removal process with some photos. So we can have a tutorial for the gearbox removal/swap out.

    Looking forward to discovering what is going on inside your noisy gearbox. I hope it's simple.

    DualValve


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