‘64 10EE underway

I finally got started on cleaning up the 10EE.
Got it stripped down, electronics, motor, transformer cabinet, coolant pump, carriage, apron and gearbox removed. Headstock stays on. Primed and painted the body yesterday and today. It is sitting about 16” above normal, I raised it up to make it easier to work in the lower part of the base.

Wanted to get that started to give the enamel plenty of time to harden before scratching it up reassembling. It will take me a while to go through the apron and carriage. Carriage, apron, etc are on the table behind and to the right of the lathe. I’m hoping the gearbox will be OK with a good flush and clean without disassembly. I expect the carriage will end up getting Rulon but haven’t crossed that bridge yet.

This one has a 5hp DC motor with back gear. It came with aDanfuss DC controller and would only turn about 1000rpm, suggesting that there was no field weakening circuit. Rather than troubleshooting that, I’m going with a Parker/Eurotherm 514/507 per some older threads on here. It’ll get tested out on the bench before going into the lathe. Unfortunately the main transformer, T5, leads are brittle and corroded so won’t be able to use that.

I’ve decided to go with a simple cpu (arduino) rather than the dual pots for speed control. Single knob (rotary pulse generator) speed control, separately settable Forward/Reverse speed, digitally monitored armature voltage and field current on a 2x16 LCD panel. Optoisolators between the cpu and all the electronics. Totally worthless bells and whistles really, and probably a nightmare if I ever sell it, but I’m happy with this plan.

It looks like you put quite a bit of effort into the stand to raise the machine up!

While you have the gearbox out, there's a cover on the backside that is prone to leaking. DaveE907 posted about it.

Cal

Bill

thermite said:

Check your paint maker. Benjamin-Moore "Super spec" sez one can cut about two WEEKS off the cross-linking time with modest HEAT. A tarp-tent and a basic oil-filled electric DeLonghi (style) space heater inside it might save you a looong wait, these colder months?

Click to expand...

When I converted the 32x32 garage to a shop I buried a natural gas line out there and put in a 80000 BTU heater, ran wiring everywhere, and insulated it pretty well before covering everything up. No problem keeping it 70 degrees F. May get some heat lamps though.

(Re: T5) See if it can't have new leads grafted on. You still need a rather common and easy to find add-on, primaries parallel, secondaries in series to push the output up around 320 VDC.
...
NB: AFAIK, Monarch "hot rodded" the 5 HP units by providing more than their nameplate 230 VDC, too?

Click to expand...

Might do that, will initially bench without a boost transformer. T5 on this one rated 6.8KVA at 240V in 560 (yes, 560) out. And is seriously heavy. Hoist lift only.
I got the 514-32, so no problem there pushing as much current as the motor will handle.

Shout if you can't find one of the Hammond 20 MH @ 20 A chokes for the ripple filter. The spare I bought when we did Mark's one is still on the shipping board.

Click to expand...

I'll PM you.

John Shackelton's lads didn't think it useless. Essentially all of that is already on the 514C-16's PCB! The 514C-08, -16, -32, were meant as "universal donor" DC drives - able to power just about anything in their power range - even furnace controls!

Most I/O is buffered, it includes open collectors for driving relays. Many signals AND inputs are presented as straight up or their inverse, there are "repeater" outputs for tacho level and power being drawn to drive other units or operate meters. IOW it isn't 100% "Analog", it's "hybrid". Even the Analog logic uses OP-Amps. ...

Click to expand...

Reading electronic datasheets is old hat for me. The 507 is definitely NOT fully buffered as RTFM warns not to connect the input "common" to ground as it may be at line voltage and that the inputs need to be double insulated. Regardless, the optoisolators are cheap insurance when interfacing digital logic with high voltages and lots of inductive spikes, even with the shielded cables.

Also, I meant that the arduino is certainly bells and whistles. I've picked up a hall sensor that will go on the spindle near the spindle lock, so I can measure RPM and could easily simulate a tachgen output to the 514 through one of the unused D/A converters, and fool it when it comes to field weakening RPMs. Cheaper and easier (for me) than a tachgen. Other D/A's go to the 514/507 voltage inputs normally connected to simple pots. I can have the CPU spin it up to high RPM by using full field current up to 1000RPM before weakening the field, getting quick spin up without dial fiddling. My circus, my monkeys, my mess to clean up!

Cal,
The stand was about a copule hours with the horizontal bandsaw and MIG welder, and a few bolts to hold it to the lathe. Reused my shop-made skate and pallet jack wheels so it's mobile. DEFINITELY worthwhile as my back was not going to appreciate working inside the lower cabinets for cleaning and painting, etc. Made it a nice height to sit on a stool (or inverted 5 gallon pail).

Thanks much for the lead on the gearbox cover leaking. Will follow up on that

Cal Haines said:

It looks like you put quite a bit of effort into the stand to raise the machine up!

While you have the gearbox out, there's a cover on the backside that is prone to leaking. DaveE907 posted about it.

Cal

Click to expand...

Decided I needed a separate bench for working on the electronics on the 10EE since it was tying up my larger table and I wanted to be able to use the larger table for working on the apron, carriage, etc, without the clean-up to swap between uses. I had a bit of extra maple flooring so I glued that up to make a decent electronics bench. Been working on the 10EE controller there.

thermite said:

"Try it. You'll probably lIKE it!" . even if not often utilized.

Click to expand...

If you look closely at the way too small picture (courtesy of this site's resizing algorithm, not my choice), the blue-gray panel on the left is the panel out of the lathe. I'm mounting most stuff on that so effectively I have the swap aside option. Same logic ...

Off topic discussion of photo posting moved to new thread: photo posting issues

Cal

Here's another version of the electronics bench picture, posted via saving it to an album.