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Another "I Got A 10EE" Thread...With A Twist

Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Good Afternoon All-

Yes, the inevitable new guy with a 10EE that they happened across. I picked one up as part of a package deal, and it was dropped dial side down in soft/gravel and got a little dinged up. I've attached some pictures of the lathe itself, and you can see the damaged portion on the cross feed dial assembly.

Here's the twist. I know these lathes by reputation and respect deeply their historicity and capability, and know that I'll never make real use of it. I absolutely do not want to part it out as I want to see it run. However I don't have time and $$ to monkey with a basket case. So I'm looking for a little guidance from those that really know this lathe well, and hopefully I can get into working order so that it can go to a good home that'll care for it and use the hell out of it. If I do end up having to part it out, I want to make sure it's a organ donor that gets one of it's kin up and running. I also want to be honest with a potential buyer about what's happened with it (I don't know the details, only that it was a "soft" drop) but be able to demonstrate that it's running, and can make chips.

It was part of a lot of machines that I bought, and because it had been dropped, and it wasn't under power, I only could evaluate the cleanliness and inspect all the usual wear points, etc. It's in amazing shape given it's been sitting, and everything turns and moves a smooth as butter, and the only outstanding issue is the cross feed.

My uninformed plan, and I'd love thoughts from those you folks in the know, looks a little like this:

1. Get it home and run through the basics on electrical looking for dead shorts, broken components, etc. and get it under power (I have three phase via a rotary phase converter).
2. If it powers up, I'll slowly test things out and get a sense of how it's running. Speed control, reversing, etc. and proceed to Step 3.
2a. If I can't get it to power up without trying to divine the mysteries of this electrical Rube Goldberg machine electronically (not a slight on it, but they're amazingly complex and far beyond my experience or expertise with a multi-meter) and move to Step 4.
3. If it's electrically viable, I'll work on sourcing or fabricating the broken cast iron and shaft from the cross feed. Get it installed, tune it up and take a few cuts, measure it's accuracy, etc. and find someone to adopt a running, breathing Monarch, and share the history, and hopefully it'll find a new life with someone that'll love on it for years.
4. If it's not electrically viable without some minimal poking and prodding, I'll strip out all the reusable parts, etc. and sell them. My preference of course is to go to someone who's going to bring one back to life, or keep a beloved lathe up and running. I'm not into it for much, and I'm not trying to get rich, I just need to recoup the time and investment, and I'll be happiest if it's running or gets someone else running.

I am sure I'm glossing over much, and potentially the damage is much more extreme than my untrained eye can take in, so please help me get wiser and ensure this piece of history lives on...even if I'm not the caretaker.

Thank you all in advance!


-TennesseeMachine

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there is a guy on ebay parting out a monarch 10ee. maybe you could replace the broken pieces. The ebay guy is not cheap and im not sure what vintage machine he is parting out but its worth a look. Your machine looks like a motor generator model. That means if you remove the cover on the tailstock side, you should see a motor with a generator piggy backed on top of it. these drive systems are very robust and reliable. first thing to do to get it going is make sure it is wired for 220v three phase. if you send me a private message with your phone number i'll give you a call and walk you through getting it started if you like. I dont feel like typing that much info.
 
I'd bet that was a hit from something else - a face plant always breaks the carriage feed wheel first. With an intact carriage feed wheel there not a lot of ways to take out the cross feed.

Fortunately the cross feed screw and dial assy shouldn't be too hard to replace. I can't tell if you have a taper attachment, if so that adds to the difficulty and possible damage.

Other than that I'd check the oil levels, grease the motor and generator bearings and see that the brushes on both ends are seated and have some length under the spring and give it some power. There's a direction indicator in the cabinet under the tailstock, make sure the generator is spinning the right way when you first crank it up. There's a slight possibility that the field generator will have to be flashed but they usually come back with their residual magnetism.

Good luck and have fun!
 
It looks like you have a taper attachment.
The hand crank for the cross feed will not have a screw hanging out of it.
It is below the T/S in the fourth picture.

I'd put the cross feed back together and see if you have any binds.

Bill
 
This thread will walk you through checking to see what, if anything, needs to be done to run it from 240V.
10EE MG 440 to 220 Conversion Checklist
If the machine has its original wiring, you'll need to make a simple change to the wiring of the main AC contactor to get it to work with a rotary phase converter.

You want to be very careful running that big chuck at full speed. Very bad things happen when an 8" chuck flies apart at 2500+ RPM. If the chuck has the machine's serial number stamped on the back, it's probably original to the machine and it might be rated for full RPM. Also, if you open the jaws too much, the ends of the jaws might be able to hit the ways.

Cal
 
Thanks all! I pick it up next weekend, and I'll read through the checklist, and I'll PM you lectrian1 when I've got it safe and sound, and I'd appreciate the assistance getting it under power. Hoping it's relatively healthy so that it can be brought back to a fruitful life.
 
Hey PM Crew!

Well, the Monarch came home yesterday, and we got it moved without an issue (my handy Spanco gantry saw to that nicely).

I've pulled the covers, taken some more pictures, and I've confirmed that it's in fact wired for 240v. Would love to know what the trick is for the AC contactor, as I'm dying to just hook it up to my rotory phase converter, and just see if it's alive. The more I look at this thing, and clean it up, the more astounded I am at how unbelievably beefy and feature rich it is. What an amazing machine.

Below are the added pictures, and I'll read through the provided thread, and make any adjustments/tune ups before I press any buttons!

-Tennessee Machine

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Damage looks very minor for a face-plant. You'll need that whole dial assembly and the telescoping shaft within. Inspection will tell you if you need the screw.
Nice machine there and not molested. Clean the rust off the ways before you move the carriage again so it doesn't get embedded in the carriage underside.
 
Thanks for the vote of confidence gents, she's crusty, but I'm thinking along the same lines (without the experience you gents have).

As to putting it under power there was mention of a "simple change" to the AC contactor, does anyone have the low down on that? I'm still on the path of getting the electronics sorted, and making sure the machine runs electrically before I start sourcing replacement, or creating, replacement parts for the cross feed.

Hopefully some good news to share tonight after I hook 'er up!
 
...

As to putting it under power there was mention of a "simple change" to the AC contactor, does anyone have the low down on that? I'm still on the path of getting the electronics sorted, and making sure the machine runs electrically before I start sourcing replacement, or creating, replacement parts for the cross feed.

...
In the link that I provided in post 5, above, I provide another link that explains, in great detail how that works (assuming that you have the original Cutler-Hammer AC contactor). I can't help ya if you don't have time to read.

Cal
 
Spot on Cal, I missed it the first time I read through, but got it now. Guess I can be helped, but I need to read twice. ;)

The great news is that ‘lectrician walked me through the start up over the phone, including the contactor, and we have a running Monarch! Thank you ‘lectrician!!

Everything seems to be in working order electrically, but now I need to hunt down a replacement cross feed casting, screw, etc. to fix the only known functional issue...anyone have a bead on one they’d part with to put this lady into fully running condition (obviously happy to pay for the part and shipping). I’m watching eBay as well.

Going to get the fluids changed out etc. over the next couple days and start cleaning it up.

Thanks again everyone for the assist!!
 
I'd like to see a better picture of the cross-feed dial. It looks like you might have an accumulating cross-feed dial, like this one:
EE16238 03 accumulating cross-feed dial.jpg

Those are rare as hen's teeth on round-dials and not much more common on square-dials. I would definitely want to rehab it if I were you (if not, please send it to me . . .). You might be able to braze up the damage to the body portion with the mounting ears (part E8-60). If necessary, you could sleeve the shaft bore. I've never had one of those apart, so I don't know if the body for the accumulating dial is the same as that for regular dial, but I doubt it.

Cal
 
Again, my many thanks for the insight, I am a novice (if you haven't figured that out) and so threads like this save me weeks of heartache.

Cal I'll get a couple pictures of the dial up for you today. I am thinking that if we can braze or TIG (I have a friend who has fixed cast items for us in the past) then get it up and running. I'm not going for factory purity, but quality and durability. If we can do that with brazing (remaining to be seen) I'll try that route. Take a look at the new pictures when I get them up, and we'll make a data driven call.

Going to get the oils swapped out in the next couple days (you'd be proud Cal, I read the threads twice!) and finish the inspections and cleaning while I sort the dial situation.

I'm just glad she's running, and not too far away from making chips.

Thank you gents!


-Tennessee Machine
 
Since the screw is anchored on the other end there's no axial load on that broken part like there would be on many lathes. I would remove the busted bit and turn the broken end of the stem down then make a new base with a mating stem and loctite the two halves together.
 
if you are going to tig weld, use nickel 99 rods. preheat the part to 400 degrees with a torch or in the oven. I have a bunch of those rods. Contact me if you want me to weld it or you need some rods
 
I'm not on about gluing two faces together with a splint Bill. There's nothing hard about turning a step in the shank and a mating feature in the new flange mount. If you can't get the bore and OD suitably concentric then you don;t need any lathe let alone a 10EE.
 
Good Morning Gents!

Well I spent last night cleaning and pulling the broken accumulating dial from the machine so we could get a really good look at what's busted up. Pictures below.

The good news is that everything else on the machine is in pristine condition apart from the grime and aged paint. Each little cool part reveals some amazing detail and functionality that just blows my mind. No wonder these are so well loved.

Here are the pics, and we do have support equipment (lathes/mills) to fab things, and my son is a budding machinist himself, and can do just about any task on a manual mill/lathe, and I am good at watching and keeping him tanked up on Dr. Pepper. :)

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