Anyone Re-Grind the Tailstock Taper - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    The Sunnen hone will take care of the bore nicely, and in action will follow the original bore by guiding off the unworn/less worn portions of the existing bore, and being able to run the also from the back, the typical "Sunnen 50 millionths" should be no problem.
    As mention before the quill can be ground on a tool and cutter grinder with motorized workhead. Most everywhere has a hard chrome service.

    Considering the cost of a new machine, and time needed to rebuild an old one, it could be more economical to spend 15 to 20 thousand for one that has less wear, this one has none of those problems.


    This machine does have metric threading but, about the only thing this machine will do over an EE with more wear is turn a 12 or 14" length within a couple of tenths taper.
    You can still make an accurate grinding spindle on a worn EE because only short distances on the length need high accuracy, such as the bearing mounts.
    Just kicking out a few ideas for the newer lathe drivers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    Fix it any way you want, but here is the donie path of least resistance!

    Take the base of the tail stock, file the ridges from the V and flat, then scrape it a bit so it has reasonable contact with the bed. Not, trying to level the top of the base at this point, just going along with the wear. Don't try to be too critical there because you probably have bed wear as well.

    Take the tailstock base and prop it up on your mill. using round rod in the V and shimming the flat on the bottom, begin fly cutting the top flat, you can remove it, and test on the lathe to adjust the shimmed flat side, so it ends up reasonably level.
    Then, depending on how much material had to removed from the top of your tailstock base, will be the thickness of the shim or plate to bring the tail center back up and level.
    With that done, the slop in the quill is not near the problem it was.
    ^^^ THIS ^^^

    Keeping in mind that "least resistance" is not the same as "no work at all", but what he just laid out is about the practical minimum.

    PM does have more than one TS project thread. ISTR RC99 did one on his 10EE?

    Going ALL the way to super-precise has also been covered. Good comparison, so it is clear that what donie just outlined above IS about the least one can do for a useful gain.

    The far greater amount of time and effort - and very precise MEASURING, "quite often" - needed to get to near-perfect was covered in a long thread started by a now deceased member, here:

    Is it possible to hone the bore of a tailstock accurately enough in a home shop?

    Note that first post, he mentions having sent-out TS for his other lathe with wear closer to your one to Commerce Grinding, and that his goal was to avoid the cost.

    He didn't so much as "avoid" cost. He just absorbed cost with his own time and sweat! Rather a lot of it, as he made his own tooling for the task as well.

    Not mentioned, was he had already seen to the bed and such, so there is even more work, yet.

    I don't drill with the tailstock, don't often even need to turn between centers, so I just use the same "cheat" we had to use on worn-out "company" lathes no one was interested in repairing, ever.

    Slip a slice or many of cigarette PACK paper/foil, brown kraft paper, kitchen aluminium foil, or really thin Bronze shim stock into the bore alongside whichever quadrant needs it to nudge the tip over a skosh.

    CAVEAT: NOT GOOD for drilling! Unless you have / fab / use an anti-torque rod of some sort.

    But works "mostly OK" for turning 'tween centers.

    As said, we had zero other option at the time. OTOH "zero other option.." happens to us all when in a hurry.

  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    was covered in a long thread started by a now deceased member, here:

    Is it possible to hone the bore of a tailstock accurately enough in a home shop?
    thanks Bill. good thread, but i still have no idea which approach to take...???

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    Quote Originally Posted by everettengr View Post
    thanks Bill. good thread, but i still have no idea which approach to take...???
    Tex was dying of cancer while he created that thread. We didn't know that.
    He did know it. So it became something of a last, best shot.

    The choice comes down to what is important to each person in HIS environment.

    TS rebuild of a one-hole, "handwheel" not ram-lever, or capstan operated Tailstock is a waste of MY time because they aren't worth a shit for useful in the first place.

    The 10EE I am keeping gets the hex turret. Less work to fit that than it is to rebuild the one-holer TS. Why? Because I'm not TRYING to scrape it perfect. Making it adjustable instead.

    The Cazeneuve HBX-360-BC has a massive TS that NEEDS NO rebuild because Henri Rene Bruet anticipated the wear all lathes have had since the dawn of time.

    Its massive 5 MT 2-speed capstan-operated through-bored quill mounts in a patented double offset sleeve such that one simply ADJUSTS it back onto dead-nuts centre.

    IF.. I were to apply the donie quick and basic TS repair?

    I'd build-in a long-axis ramp on a taper to each half (some Dividing Head and tool & cutter grinder TS have this already) so NEXT go I could ADJUST for vertical height in a similar manner to the HBX (which isn't even two-piece) ..and not have to try all over again for an ephemeral fixed position that started to wear AGAIN, day one, hour one, minute one. Fit and scrape a new shim? Nossir. Wouldn't even have to take it APART.

    Just pop the repurposed bang-stick shooter's 20 dollah bore-sight laser into the HS bore and line her up!

    With the hex turret? Easier yet.

    Recycled Harding mini-cross slide (I have 3 or 4) in one hole. Stub center in it, swing it about, crank the dial. Put in on centreline.
    Or offset it for turning a long taper. Whatever yah need, that hour.

    Person could buy one of those - my average cost about $75 - put a MT #2 tail on it in place of the 5/8" straight tail?

    Pop that into yer sad, tired, sidegodlin 10EE one-holer, nary a bit of repair done to it at all - now or evermore.

    Dial the center wherever you want it to be.

    Drilling, as I keep saying, is best done with the carriage, where you have both of rapid chip-clear and power feed with clutch.

    If the TS ain't used for drilling? What does that leave?

    Yah can mount a CENTRE onto a web-braced ANGLE plate tensioned with ignorant allthread if yah have to do. Get yah 30" worth of shaft into a 20" lathe if you need that too. Heavy steel plate can be had. Just "hang ten" off the arse-end of the bed.

    ADJUSTABLE mount. Of course. Easier that way.

    Accuracy don't birth itself in the cold of dead Iron.

    Comes from the warm LIVING place between human ears.

    The rest is just crutches - some better than others.



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