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Apron oiling system...keep?

focusrsh

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
I bought an EE10 (Serial # 17454, build date: 11-1942) last year and have slowly been taking it apart, cleaning out 70+ years of chips and crud, replacing crunchy bearings, etc. Once the apron was off I discovered all of the copper oil tubes in it were corroded-through, so they have all been removed and the holes where they run drilled clean. I tried soaking the metering valves in carb cleaner for 2 days, but they are plugged beyond redemption. According to this forum, I can get new ones. The question is...should I bother? Is the automatic oiling system worth the effort and cost to restore? Can I replace it with something manually operated? I haven't pulled the pump yet to see if it is functional; I've been working from the top down.

This is not a lathe I intend to restore for a museum. I want to use it. On the other hand, I am not unsympathetic to old machinery, and in fact, I bought the lathe to support my antique car and motorcycle hobby.

Any advice very, very welcome.
 
I would definitely restore the oiler. There is nothing to the pump, just a plunger and a check valve and filters. When I redid my 12CK I had to same problems, primarily clogged metering units. Took some work and a few dollars but the advantages out weight the costs. Constantly flushing the old oil, oil that is applied directly to the bearing surfaces, small or no risk of contamination from cutting fluids. Nothing finer than to see the glean of fresh oil on the ways as you use it. I don't know the construction of the EE but with the CK, the oiling is also to the cross slide and screw which on a manual machine always appears to be oil starved.

Tom
 
Any advice very, very welcome

I have had my CW16 X 102 for nearly twenty years - the next owner can do that if he likes:D

I just oil it before moving it - including back end of cross slide and its screw..

Drilled and tapped the wiper holders so a screw can close this means to keep the felts wet

I am only the second owner but Houston Power and Light never took care of anything on it - after plunking down $5775 1946 bucks for it
 
Metering valves cannot be cleaned or restored. Just replace them. But make sure you use identical ones in terms of the amount of flow restriction.
 
I have metering valves (just can’t remember which Bijur #s cross to the originals). I changed them in my Ser. 60.
I have extra pumps, also. Contact me if you need ‘em.
 
I bought an EE10 (Serial # 17454, build date: 11-1942) last year and have slowly been taking it apart, cleaning out 70+ years of chips and crud, replacing crunchy bearings, etc. Once the apron was off I discovered all of the copper oil tubes in it were corroded-through, so they have all been removed and the holes where they run drilled clean. I tried soaking the metering valves in carb cleaner for 2 days, but they are plugged beyond redemption. According to this forum, I can get new ones. The question is...should I bother? Is the automatic oiling system worth the effort and cost to restore? Can I replace it with something manually operated? I haven't pulled the pump yet to see if it is functional; I've been working from the top down. ...
I think that if you check with a magnet you'll find that the oil lines were copper plated steel.

I rebuilt the Bijur oiler system in my 10EE, but I also added ball-detent oilers to the ends of each wing of the saddle and one over the reservoir in the top of the apron. I depends on what you have time/interest for, I guess.

Cal
 








 
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