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Thread: Boeing EE

  1. #21
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    On the positive side you got the box and the gears (seems like the seller made money on the shipping as those parts easily fit in a flat rate box).
    Try Monarch for the dual pot, I think someone bought one from Monarch in the last couple years for around $100 ($130 sticks in my head). Searching may find it.

    I may have a dual pot in the parts I got but if it works I'm probably going to want to keep it as my own spare.
    Paul

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    found it;
    Blowing Diodes On My 10EE
    look at posts 18 and 19 - monarch replaced the pot in 2011 for $140, with an initial quote of $300. There are some older threads indicating they were quoted $800 (ouch).

    Paul

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sequim Tool View Post
    No luck pots are open $101 down the tube on junk parts off E-Bay But it's not Norm's fault he never tested them. It's my fault for not having him test them.
    Both pots are open? That's weird. I made a pair of pots from NOS 20K and 50K pots for a WiaD, if you can find new pots with double the resistance there's a fairly easy way to do it. Since you have the rest of the mechanism it'd be maybe $50 for new pots and some trace paint to short half of each pot.

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    Thanks
    I looked them up in a Clarostat catalog looks like Part # 58C1-10K/50K Tandem. the # on the pot's are monarch #.
    and so back to E-Bay 58C1-10k $38. and the 58C1-50K the same + shipping . So for $100. I can get the parts to make up a Tandem set.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sequim Tool View Post
    Thanks
    I looked them up in a Clarostat catalog looks like Part # 58C1-10K/50K Tandem. the # on the pot's are monarch #.
    and so back to E-Bay 58C1-10k $38. and the 58C1-50K the same + shipping . So for $100. I can get the parts to make up a Tandem set.
    Remember that you need double the resistance the final pot should have since you're shorting half. I can't recall what the modular drive needs but do recall that it's different from the WiaD drive pots (or one pot, anyway).

    And often you can find surplus places with much better deals on the Clarostat pots. Just be sure that you get the 2W wirewound ones.

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    I found them on E-Bay 58C1-10K and a 50k $45.95 with shipping

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    "And often you can find surplus places with much better deals on the Clarostat pots. Just be sure that you get the 2W wirewound ones."

    The Type J hot-molded pots are 2 watts.

    The wire-wound pots are 5 watts.

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    Thanks
    the 58C1 Clarostat are 4watt wire-wound, are all EE pots 10K and 50K ? or are some 25K -50K, on the cover on my machine it calls out 10K-50K
    I order a single phase motor for the pump I will stub the shaft to fit the impeller and seal, put the c-face end bell off the old motor on the new motor, the new motor was only $49.
    Then I can see if it will run be for I start the rebuild

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    The various calibration pots are 2 watt hot-molded, linear. These are screw driver adjustable, with a locking collar (collet type lock, so the setting will not change as the lock is engaged).

    The speed pots are wire-wound with a special taper: linear for one-half of the rotation, no change thereafter. The speed pots are mounted backwards to implement the "crossover" function.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sequim Tool View Post
    Thanks
    the 58C1 Clarostat are 4watt wire-wound, are all EE pots 10K and 50K ? or are some 25K -50K, on the cover on my machine it calls out 10K-50K
    I order a single phase motor for the pump I will stub the shaft to fit the impeller and seal, put the c-face end bell off the old motor on the new motor, the new motor was only $49.
    Then I can see if it will run be for I start the rebuild
    The quoted resistances are for half the travel, so you'll need a 20K (25K will work and is easier to find) and 100K pot. Once you have them you use this stuff: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360433112923 to short half of the pot (best to use the old ones as a pattern). Don't get the silver paste on the wipe area and make sure the pot has a 0 resistance at the end and not an infinite (can't remember the term for that). After that you just use the old cases and hardware to connect the new wiper and resistance elements.

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    when I opened the housing for the pots it was 1/8 full of oil and the pots had been pulled apart I degreased them and put them on the meter, both reading open both at the same spot about half way around. So I got new ones coming, but late today I recleaned them and they are OK, one is 25K the other 50K and both are linear

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    "when I opened the housing for the pots it was 1/8 full of oil"

    Alas, all too common on 10EEs, even though the pots are contained in a cast metal box and otherwise effectively sealed.

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    Yes the seepage seems to magically go to the pot. I have not really figured out the path the oil follows but it certainly seems to want to wind up in/on the pot. I have thought of rigging up barriers of some type - raised lip maybe with epoxy around the hole where the pot shaft exits the box, and a drip ring (even just an O ring) on the bevel gear shaft. I have not implemented any of this but I have left the bottom cover off - which at least keeps oil from forming a pool for the pot to sit in.

    Maybe I'll have another look.
    Paul

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    I'm think drill a weep hole in the bottom of the box and some tubing to a drip pan and o-ring seals on the shaft.

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    "Yes the seepage seems to magically go to the pot. I have not really figured out the path the oil follows but it certainly seems to want to wind up in/on the pot."

    Possibly a non-friction seal of the labyrinth type.

    My best guess as to why 5 watt W.W. pots were used instead of the 2 watt hot-molded type was cost.

    The dual Type J pots are not available in special tapers, except without extra cost, and, generally, only linear and so-called "audio" tapers are available.

    It is relatively easy to manufacture a wire-wound pot which implements the required "crossover" function within the pot itself.

    Indeed, the two sections are placed back-to-back, such that one has 0 to one-half rated ohms from zero to about 160 degrees, and the other has one half rated ohms to zero from 160 degrees to about 320 degrees, even though both sections are manufactured as from 0 to one-half over the first 160 degrees of rotation.

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    With my 66EE not making full speed and having done all the electrical test points it looks like my field voltage is not dropping correctly. I dove into my speed pot and found a stacked Allen Bradley Type J pot with a decidedly non original looking multi conductor cable going to the pots. My box looked nothing like the one shown earlier in the thread but is original. Does this sound at all correct? Regardless of the originality the pot values are correct but I don't belive they have the correct resistance profile. P3A moves linearly from 80 ohms to 11K ohms, P3B on side 1 moves from 400 ohms to 55K ohms at mid travel and no change after that. Side 2 moves from 55K to 1K in the first half of travel then rapidly to 10 Ohms and flat after that. P3A seems to be incorrect, as from what I understand it should hit 10K ohms mid scale then be constant after that, am I thinking this out correctly?

    I'll post my voltage values in a new thread when I can figure out how to upload them.

    Drew

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    Post a photo of your set up, My EE is a 67 but the pot and housing I got off E-Bay Looking at the solder job I'm thinking the pots are not original.
    I order a manual today $75.

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    This is what my speed pots look like. I called Monarch this morning and they are getting a quote together, hs said he didn't think they were very expensive, we'll see.

    img_20130808_093625_046.jpgimg_20130808_093607_381.jpg

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    Are you restoing it like a museum piece or do you want a good usable lathe ?

    For lathe, put a servo drive on the spindle and its done. Cheaper, easier, better. And you get a C axis. And perfect speeds.

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    Got the quote, $110 and it's in stock but for a couple pots it's a bit steep but not enough to go a different route. Ships today.

    Hanermo,

    Take a look through the servo drive installs on these machines and you'll see they are neither cheaper, easier or better. People typically do the servo or vfd install if they have no choice, missing equuipment etc. My 66 is 95% there, it runs and once I have the speed issue solved it's 100%. How does tearing apart something that functions and installing a completely different drive system which requires extensive custom fabrication and wiring and who knows what else make a better machine? That would be like replacing the entire drive line in your car with something made by a different manufacturer simply because it ran rough. I have a 41EE also and it's a good usable lathe, and it has no servo drive, just an old heavy DC motor. It took a couple days to get running, a servo drive install is a multi month project.


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