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Thread: Boeing EE

  1. #41
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    I understand. And agree. Depending on where You are with the work, cost and parts its a very different situation.

    I am changing my lathes motor to a servo. Have the stuff.
    I am moving from a 1.5 Hp to a 2.5 kW servo drive.
    600€ all in. 5000 count encoder.

    What I saw was lots of difficulties with 50-150$ parts, several.
    Often, new tech is ignored, imo.

    A servo drive is a good option, no more, unless you have ability to mount live tools.
    Today, a servo drive may be less than another suppliers VFD.

  2. #42
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    I'm think the same, keep it the same as it is, If I can get it to work, if not the cost of replacing has to be less than fixing the old stuff, and I can fix anything
    The wire on yours look just like mine just no pots and $110 is not so bad. I spent $100 for junk.

  3. #43
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    I got the Manual from Monarch it was $101.99 with shipping and I order the speed pots too $138.97 with shipping
    now I think all I need is 2 filament transformers for 230 volt,
    I order a new shaft seal for the coolant pump I will get the new motor shaft stubbed to take the impeller, it's a Gusher D500 1/10 HP the motor I got is a 1/4 HP it will still work fine. will post some photos next week
    So if you have 2 filament transformer for 230 volt drop me a line
    John

  4. #44
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    I pulled the EE back in to the shop and out of the doorway 1 day to move it and 2 days to clean up the shop
    been working on the pump. It's a Gushes D500, got a new single phase motor the same frame size off e-bay and I stubbed the shaft to fit the seal and impeller
    called Beckwith & Kuffel in Seattle and Steve got me a new seal for $20 the Gusher seal was over $60.
    And today the 200-250 filament transformers came, thank Paul. The good Dr. is coming to get my 400-500 ant the 3 HP motor I have this weekend
    I got the new speed pots from Monarch this week too.
    a hell of a week
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails moved-ee.jpg   pump2.jpg   pump-1.jpg   stubed-shaft.jpg   new-motor.jpg  


  5. #45
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    Got the coolant pump all back together on the single phase motor
    Drstranglove came by the shop and picked up the 3 HP motor and the 400-500 volt filament transformers on Sunday
    John
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails coolant-pump.jpg  

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    Sequim,

    It was good to meet you the other day, thanks again for the motor and transformers. We decided to use an engine hoist to get the motor out of my buddies car, going in is one thing but coming out was not going to happen with the two of us without someone ending up in the hospital! That motor is heavy!

  7. #47
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    Default Filament transformers

    I installed the 200-250 volt filament transformers to day and set them up for the 2.5 volt out put, thanks Paul, next the speed pots.

    filament-transformer.jpg

  8. #48
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    Default Power up

    Did some work on the EE today, mounted the speed pots used the box and gears I got on e-bay, made a new cover it worked good.
    Powered it up, the light came on, I pushed the switch, no go, after cleaning the switch still not pulling in the PC controller, gave it a push by hand it snapped in, turned the spindle to fwd the chuck started to turn but sound like a garbage truck, turned the speed up sounding better but still all the controller are buzzing, turned the speed all the way up, went to 3500 rpm, only the left C16J glowing the other one was flashing, after about 3 min. the PC controller tripped out.
    So now the work begins.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails pot-box.jpg   speed-pot.jpg   c16j.jpg  

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sequim Tool View Post
    only the left C16J glowing the other one was flashing, after about 3 min. the PC controller tripped out. So now the work begins.
    Swap the tubes, see if the problem moves with the tube. If it does replace it otherwise we'll want filament voltage and a few other measurements.

  10. #50
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    Good thinking, I will start checking all the voltages and swapping the tubes. Both the tube filament got hot, lots to check.
    Thanks
    John

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    I swap the tubes, power it up, the light come on, I push the green button, the PC controller will not pull in, I push it in by hand it latches, the FL relay pulls in, I put the machine in fwd. the chuck turns, the QSD relay is jumping in and out I speed it up 2000 rpm the QSD stop jumping, the same tube that was glowing is still working the other one is flashing white, the PC trips out. I'm thing I need a tube

  12. #52
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    As you note the issue following the tube is a high probability sign that it is the tube.

    I probably have working C16J tubes. I'll spend a few hours this weekend testing them in my drive.
    Assuming I have at least a couple that work my plan was to price at $200 ea including shipping, if I have a bunch that work I may move that down a bit.

    FYI there is one on ebay now for $109 shipped but it looks like they don't know if it works. There is also someone selling 2 C16H tubes for $50 ea. No info I can find online about a C16H (and that is plainly visible on the tube) but visually they look exactly like the J's. I was thinking of buying them but with the batch of parts I am sitting on the last thing I needed was to grab a few more tubes.

    Paul

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    I spent 2 hr looking up data on the C16H tubes and got nothing, the one on e-bay for $109. is a big crap shoot I made an offer of $20 but he won't drop the price.
    I'm in no rush as I need to find some cash first. Let me know if you have a good one and thanks Paul

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sequim Tool View Post
    I spent 2 hr looking up data on the C16H tubes and got nothing, the one on e-bay for $109. is a big crap shoot I made an offer of $20 but he won't drop the price.
    I'm in no rush as I need to find some cash first. Let me know if you have a good one and thanks Paul
    DO NOT BUY!!! the $109 dollar tube, it is bad. Purchased, verified and returned by me. It had a gas leak. Mara Industrial did good by me as they promptly refunded my purchase but I'm not too happy about it being up for sale again, they do however say for parts only.

    I bought my new one from Vacuum Tubes Radio Tubes - 5,000 different tubes in stock - Over 10 million tubes!. Not cheap but they only carry NOS unused. I paid $500. My machine rumbles under around 1200 rpm when it's warmed up as the two tubes aren't matched. The new tube flickers until speed is over 1200 or so then it smooths out.

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    Thanks for the warning
    The tube I think is bad has a good filament as it gets hot but no gas, it flashes white not the purple glow like the other one.
    A new tube at Vacuum Tubes Radio $750.
    the Beel stuff is $1500 and I can e-bay my old parts, I do have one good tube and some nice transformer too
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drstrangelove View Post
    DO NOT BUY!!! the $109 dollar tube, it is bad. Purchased, verified and returned by me. It had a gas leak. Mara Industrial did good by me as they promptly refunded my purchase but I'm not too happy about it being up for sale again, they do however say for parts only.
    I agree, it shows very poor business practice. At best, they know it is bad and are hoping that whoever purchases it will let it sit before testing it so they will not be able to return it. The very fact they re-listed it after receiving it back from you is tacky at best...Probably a good company to stay away from, entirely.

    Cheers,
    Alan

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    Myself, I would be careful about drive conversions.
    Again, this is about threading operations that I tend to do a lot of.
    The example here is a 1 1/16" 4tpi acme thread for a woodworking vise I did last week for my own use.
    I have always used big lathes for this, but I am stuck with only the EE lathes at this time.
    The problem being, even at very slow cutting speed the threading dial is spinning like a top. This makes for very hard half-nut engagement for the many passes needed. And relative poor cut at very slow speeds, along with nut cam in error, that can spoil the thread or break the tool as the thread gets deeper.

    Enter the dynamic braking, that with the ELSR makes for precise stopping that becomes a huge factor in cutting coarse or precision threads. "Note, It can be done without ELSR-just have to be Johnny on the spot with the spindle lever".

    For both the nut and screw, I set the ELSR stops, the half- nuts are left engaged the entire time. Because of this, I was able to increase the speed making for a nice cut, and the good fit, that can not be purchased on available similar items. This was very important on the nut, as the tool needs to be kept short and rigid.
    I seem to be one of the few that cuts a lot of threads, but, the amazing little EE will do it, and do it well.

    The screw has dry lube on it and saw dust, that's why its not shiny...


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  19. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sequim Tool View Post
    Thanks for the warning
    The tube I think is bad has a good filament as it gets hot but no gas, it flashes white not the purple glow like the other one.
    A new tube at Vacuum Tubes Radio $750.
    the Beel stuff is $1500 and I can e-bay my old parts, I do have one good tube and some nice transformer too
    John
    When I called they guy said it was $750 but he would let me have it for $500. He was the owner, not sure if you talked to the same guy or if he was feeling generous that day. I'd try again when you have $$ to spend and let him know that $500 was the price he gave to another guy on the board.

    Drew

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    Thank Drew
    To day I put in back gear cranked the speed all the way up still had to push the PC in by hand it latched the FL pulled in the PC did not trip out things all warmed up the bad tube still not glowing like the other but have a purplish tint to it but back out of back gear any speed under 2000 the QDS is jumping in and out the everything is buzzing to beat the band then it trips out the PC.
    I need some cash as my baby needs new tubes

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    My EE was not equipped with ELSR


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