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Check out this Ebay 10EE

"125k replacement cost, with uber rare 'air drive' leadscrew"

I couldn't figure out what you were talking about and then I saw the lead screw disconnected. You pay extra for that!! I had to make a split ring taper pin pusher to remove the taper pin to separate the leadscrew, here it is all done for you!!!!
 
jlegge said:
Here is the one I rolled my eyes at;Monarch 10EE lathe with taper attachment | eBay

$32K for a round dial built during WW2, and because it came out of US Mint? Seriously?


John L.
Click to expand...

"All of the dials name plate high low shifter Plaque and the original power button are all made from bronze on this machine "

I know copper and the like have gotten expensive, but your not fooling me by that much!
 
question for you experienced folks. . .if a late 1960's ee was inspected and found to have less than a 10th deviation in any of the ways (with tenths indicator placed on the carriage as it moved from tailstock to head and the spindle showed less than a tenth runout with same indicator, no way dings from dropped chuck, etc. . .as well as new electronics with a 7.5 hp motor. what would be a reasonable price to pay? The lathe was in a research facility all of its life. I am looking for a high-quality ee that is turn-key. I know the question is kind of loaded as it could be between x&y. Just looking for ballpark thoughts on the upper range of reasonableness

John
 
they did it for me Bob, these folks seem very kind in their treatment of a simple man like me with my silly requests
 
bob said:
If you showed up in my shop to inspect a 60 year old machine with an indicator you would not be treated with respect
Bob
Click to expand...
I did that very thing when purchasing a 10EE. In fact I do that with every lathe I purchase and take a test cut to check taper. I typically turn a piece the exact size as the tailstock quill and indicate so I can map how low the tailstock is siting. The last time I bought a lathe the dealer watched and happily listened as I described my inspection process. I also set up my King gauge and check the twist on the ways, the dealer hadn’t seen that either. I would say I had the opposite visit and was not disrespected but was welcomed to perform a detailed inspection. I do the same detailed inspection with surface grinders and level the machine and test grind.

If I was buying a clunker to face off dumbbell castings then I would most likely not bring an indicator.

I bought a EE that was 70 years old and cut within a tenth, it was treated right in a tool room it’s entire life.
 
Thanks, guys, it is comforting to know that I was not being rude or disrespectful. I assumed the same, it's a buyer beware world out there and the lathe is being advertised to me as near perfect with a tenths indicator so I figured I would ask the gent to video that to me prior to me trucking up there to do this myself . . .especially with the price of diesel fuel these days :-)

I know my "what sounds like a good price" is somewhat silly as it comes down to if it seems fair to me and the seller then that price is a good price. I am just trying to avoid a situation where I look back and think, "man, I should have waited longer in my search for the same quality (electronics included in this assessment) at a much lower price."

the risk in waiting is that I also might think "man, that was a good deal I passed up"
 
I think asking for or testing measurements is fair when dealing with a 10ee type of precision machine. Expectations need to be realistic. A 3K machine shouldn't be expected to turn in tenths and if you find one you should snap it up. An 8-10K machine should be getting there and anything higher in price should turn within the range you are satisfied with in comparison to a 15K Taiwan 1440. Every lathe I've bought takes a few thousand dollars of time and effort without grinding ways or scraping saddles. When that becomes necessary you need to factor another 5K into the price. A vfd conversion and motor can cost 2-4K and in the case of a 10ee it is arguable whether that is an upgrade over a geared machine mated to a vfd. A 10ee, CVA, Hendey 9x24, or Smart Brown 1024 are wonderful machines to have but if you think a worn one can be restored to turn close to what it did originally, you can get into 15-20K territory easily and not get paid for some of your time.

Still worth it in my world but you really can't overpay for a machine that turns precisely and a 10ee that doesn't match a new taiwan lathe kind of defeats the point. Dave
 
nutssniperbud said:
curious, why do you think it was run without oil?
Click to expand...
If it's been run like that, it would be a problem. But, it's not uncommon for a 10EE of that vintage to have a minor oil leak from one or the other spindle bearing reservoirs into the center reservoir. (Note that the center reservoir is over full.) The reasons for this have been discussed at length here. Mine is like that. I top off the spindle bearing reservoirs, as necessary, every time before using it.

Cal
 
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