Compound backlash adjustment
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    Default Compound backlash adjustment

    As you will see in the picture there is a gap between the dial and the compound. With a dial indicator and measuring the compound handle movement before actual compound movement is .040. How is this adjusted?

    Willimg_3364.jpg


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    Make sure you tell us what model lathe you're asking about.

    If it's a 10EE, I'm not aware of any backlash adjustment. If the dial moves in and out, you may have a problem with the thrust bearings. There's nothing complicated about it. Take it apart and see what's going on.

    Cal

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    It is a 10EE. I have taken it apart and replace one roller thrust bearing on the other end. I tend to wonder if the acme thread or not is worn.

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    Roller thrust bearing? The ones that I've seen use ball-type thrust bearings.

    Is the backlash the same all along the screw?

    Does the gap in front of the dial change?

    Cal

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    If I recall correctly, the handle is held on it's shaft with a plated screw with two holes in the head to use to tighten/loosen the screw. The handle has a small woodruff key providing a direct connection between the hands and shaft..
    I seem to remember that if the handle retention screw is not fully seated, the handle and the first dial are free to move on the shaft.
    I'd remove the handle retention screw and see if there is a problem like a burr on the woodruff key, or some other obstruction keeping the handle and dial from moving forward and properly controlling the endplay of the shaft.

    DualValve

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    If I recall correctly, the handle is held on it's shaft with a plated screw with two holes in the head to use to tighten/loosen the screw. The handle has a small woodruff key providing a direct connection between the hands and shaft..
    I seem to remember that if the handle retention screw is not fully seated, the handle and the first dial are free to move on the shaft.
    I'd remove the handle retention screw and see if there is a problem like a burr on the woodruff key, or some other obstruction keeping the handle and dial from moving forward and properly controlling the endplay of the shaft.

    DualValve
    I’ll check into that. I don’t have the original screw unfortunately and had not had the nerve to get a quote from Monarch. Might be another 500 dollar part. May make one.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    Roller thrust bearing? The ones that I've seen use ball-type thrust bearings.

    Is the backlash the same all along the screw?

    Does the gap in front of the dial change?

    Cal
    Yes, the roller thrust bearing. I”lol double check the movement since my memory is not as strong as it used to be, but I think it does change.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Will McRay View Post
    Yes, the roller thrust bearing.
    LOL!

    Now you see why I say "rolling ELEMENT" bearing?

    Aside from round balls (or so we hope they are), straight-cylinder "needles", and Timken's legendary truncated cones, they are also made as sorta beer-keg shapes for "self aligning", and wasp-waisted shapes for "crossed" rolling-element slide bearings, and ..wotever OTHER shape somebody finds a need for?

    Ball bearings in the 10EE. Pretty much everywhere, AFAIK. Not as strong or as shock-resistant as some of the others, but lowest rolling-resistance and least sliding-effect wear, so they tend to last a long time.

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    Here'a a cross section from a blueprint from approximately 1967:



    So it looks like there's a pair of "A-015 Ohio Thrust Bearings" in there. Not sure how you'd source those.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    Here'a a cross section from a blueprint from approximately 1967:



    So it looks like there's a pair of "A-015 Ohio Thrust Bearings" in there. Not sure how you'd source those.
    An email to Terry at Monarch could work?

    Or invest some TIME trying to measure them, locate a hoped-for match? Maybe have to do that twice?

    That surely ain't rocket insemination, but how much time yah got spare for it, what with it being a once-per-lifetime buy and other s**t to git done?

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    It's entirely possible that someone replaced the ball thrust bearings with roller bearings and that accounts for the gap at the dial. Maybe someone with a square-dial will pull out theirs and measure the thickness for you.

    Cal

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    Mine had a ball bearing, no gap

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    Take a look at the handle retention screw: if the handle is NOT pushed all the way onto the shaft, then there WiLL be endplay and a gap in the dial.
    If the original Moarch screw is not around, find a proper threaded bolt or screw, put a suitable washer under the head, and thread it on.. The end of the shaft is roughly flush with the outer edge of the bore through the handle's center.

    This screw in the middle of the shaft and it's job of pushing the handle as far in on the shaft as pose is the method in this design of having zero end play..

    DualValve

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    Take a look at the handle retention screw: if the handle is NOT pushed all the way onto the shaft, then there WiLL be endplay and a gap in the dial.
    If the original Moarch screw is not around, find a proper threaded bolt or screw, put a suitable washer under the head, and thread it on.. The end of the shaft is roughly flush with the outer edge of the bore through the handle's center.

    This screw in the middle of the shaft and it's job of pushing the handle as far in on the shaft as pose is the method in this design of having zero end play..

    DualValve
    Thank you. I have played with it and got the gap much closer now. Spoke with Steve at Monarch and he stated If the bearings were replaced, the dimensions may have change the flanged spacer may need to ground down. He stated every 10EE is fitted so they are different and may need some additional adjustments.


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