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Compound Base Repair

bongo88

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Location
ohio


This is the compound base for the Sundstrand machine I am restoring. Any ideas on fixing the broken corner? I have been looking for a good used one for a while but most everything I have found was pretty beat up. This one is perfect except for the corner. I was thinking about having a piece of nodular cast iron welded to it before rescraping but am a little concerned about what the heat will do to it.
 
From the picture it looks like it will work fine as is, the compound travel is such that in one direction the compound will not even be on the broken section and fully extended in the other it is just a bit past flush with the end (going from memory). Assuming early Sundstrand one will be same as later machines.

If you want the corner to look complete you could try welding, as you say heating could be an issue, pins and low temp solder may work for a visual fix (some of the low temp stuff flows about 500F which you may be able to do in a regular oven. Other options - continue watching ebay etc for another one, contact Monarch for a take off or even a new one if $$ are plentiful, also could make your own if your feeling ambitious.

Paul
 
Don't weld it. The usual Nickel rod (or worse filler metal) repair will stick a chunk on there, but you won't be doing any filing or scraping of the heat affected zone afterwards.

Getting the whole thing red hot, cast iron rod gas welding and very slow cool down with make a machinable/fileable/scrapeable weld, but will also do a job on all other finished surfaces - and probably also distort it.

Not too bad to just machine a whole new one from Durabar if you just have to have that corner on there
 
I would not weld it. You take the risk of it warping or worse turning very hard and brittle. If you made a new piece to put on I would silver solder it. It will still warp a little but won't turn hard and brittle. Another alternative would be to use the broken piece or make one then do as Paul suggests and solder it with harris safety silv it's a low temp solder just to hold it together. Then lock stitch the joint. It will be as strong as new if done right. Here is a link LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. homepage: Cast iron crack repair, cast iron welding, thread repair inserts We used to repair large diesel generator blocks when a connecting rod would punch a hole through the side with it and never had a problem. I've only used the screw type not the wedges. Bob
 
I built one recently using a piece of 80-55-60 Ductile iron from Dura Bar instead of class 40 gray iron.
 

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Not exactly the similar case, but I repaired "nut-pocket" of the compound of my lathe with way shown in pictures below. Might work for your case... counterbores for allen screws and maybe some "chemical metal" (not sure if the term is correct in english) to hide them if the appearance of the part is important.

PB240014.jpgPB260021.jpgPB260036.jpgPB260037.jpg
 
4GSR, How did you get the angle graduations to look so professional. The tick marks are pretty easy, but how did you get the numbers?
Welding it is definitely out, I know it should function fine as is so I guess I will put it together as is and keep looking for another or make one.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 
4GSR, How did you get the angle graduations to look so professional. The tick marks are pretty easy, but how did you get the numbers?.....

I used my high precision Imperial rotary table to make the tick marks. I made a fixture to hold the the stencil and make the strike.

Ken
 

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Bongo

In your pictures, the lathe drive belts on your 10EE appear to be "B" belts. Can you verify? I was always told that they were shipped with flat or "A" belts and assumed mine was mpdified for "B" belts later.

Thanks
 
Sure, which 10EE are you talking about. If it is the 42 MG the pulleys were not Monarch which is why the pulleys are not A belts. I think it probably had a flat belt originally.
 
The MG lathe, when you first posted there were no pictures, then there were 6 pictures and now there is only one picture. My 10EE is a WWII lathe (44 I think) and has 'B' belts which appear original but are not. The lathe was out side for 2 years under a tarp but the lower third was under water and I had to covert it to VFD due to damage. I plan to convert it to an automotive flat belt to reduce the speed and increase the torque be reducing the gear box pulley size and increasing the spindle pulley size.
 








 
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